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The other thing is that I don't believe once a battery is that low that a tender or maintainer will help. You need an actual charger at that point.
Some of the newer ones like C-Tek and the NoCo Genius series have modes for bringing back a very low voltage battery. (Regular or AGM type). There is no recovery for a very low voltage Lithium type battery … (10v should trigger the BMS low voltage cut-off) … I have a NoCo Genius 2 it’s called Force mode for batteries as low as 1v.
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Lots of reports of issues with NOCO. The issue with these lithium batteries is not the battery itself, but the electronics In the battery. The BMS (battery management system) is a CPU and circuit that provides proper charging protection and regulation. These circuits go bad and leave you with a useless battery.
I have had many AGM batteries go bad. They all left me with a useless battery.
 
I believe after much checking, measuring and monitoring, that the Challengers/Pursuits have an intermittent parasitic draw issue. And it basically means until Indian does something about kit, the battery issues will continue. So, leaving them on a proper tender maintainer is paramount.

The 2017-2018 heavyweights also had a parasitic draw issue until Indian acknowledged it and fixed it with an ECU/VCM update.
 
After a few months of ownership/use, the OEM battery on my new Challenger almost stranded me when I couldn't put it on a tender during an overnight trip. Decided to replace it with the same thing, only I knew the replacement was fresh - I bought the one where you have to add the acid and then charge it. Hasn't failed me yet.

 
Before you ask for a warranty replacement or refund, I suggest you try the tender on another battery like your car. Just in case it’s the bike causing it to trip.
It's the battery. I already talked to NOCO. They were awesome to deal with. I live in Canada and purchased the battery in the USA. She asked for a copy of the receipt, a video of what it was doing and a picture of the SN on the battery. When I told her I live in Canada she said they would not request my old battery back, I just had to scratch the SN off the battery and take a picture of it. Once they saw I scratched the SN off the battery a replacement was sent out.
 
To add to my story for not supporting Wicked Start batteries, last weekend I had the bike for a long three day ride to my folks house in PA. I parked It for a week and a half. Last night I put the tender on as I planned to ride to work today. Came out this morning, pulled the tender cable, hit the power switch and absolutely nothing. Connected the tender and notice a flicker of lights. So I plugged in the tender, hit the switch again. Got a couple of lights but not a full power on. Pulled the tender cable and everything went dead. Came home after work and put my original Polaris battery in everything powered on. Measured the Wicked Start battery 4.8 VDC Vice 12.8 😠

I did measure my old battery and it was at 12.3 VDC. Put it on the tender an will check in AM. Will probably have to get a new battery. DEFINITELY WON’T be a Wicked Start!
 
To add to my story for not supporting Wicked Start batteries, last weekend I had the bike for a long tree l three day ride to my folks house in PA. I parked It for a week and a half. Last night I put the tender on as I planned to ride to work today. Came out this morning, pulled the tender cable, hit the power switch and absolutely nothing. Connected the tender and notice a flicker of lights. So I plugged in the tender, hit the switch again. Got a couple of lights but not a full power on. Pulled the tender cable and everything went dead. Came home after work and put my original Polaris battery in everything powered on. Measured the Wicked Start battery 4.8 VDC Vice 12.8 😠

I did measure my old battery and it was at 12.3 VDC. Put it on the tender an will check in AM. Will probably have to get a new battery. DEFINITELY WON’T be a Wicked Start!

Wicked Start batteries are nothing more than a regular AGM battery, with a bunch of marketing hype.
 
Battery threads are becoming the new oil thread … And from now on I will only use full synthetic electrical DC Voltage in my TS111 … 😂

But seriously folks …

I think the best bang for your buck is a Bottle Supplied, AGM battery … You add the electrolyte, you charge and install it … Now you have the newest battery you can get …

The next option is an off the shelf ready to go AGM Battery … hopefully one that’s been sitting less than 6 mos … newer is better …(2-4 mos). A chemical reaction occurs while in storage called self-discharge. At room temperature, the self-discharge rate is approximately 3 percent of the rated capacity per month; however, this discharge rate can be higher under certain conditions. After 6 mos a sitting AGM should be charged. … A new dry AGM battery can sit on the shelf for 5 years … as long as it remains sealed …

Theres some info in my post #12 about LiFePO4 batteries … but so far I haven’t heard of anyone with a lithium battery that hasn’t had to replace it in roughly the same amount of time as a good old AGM. For a lithium battery to be worth the money to me … I would need to know it would last 7-10 years. A properly maintained AGM battery can go 5 years, some folks have reported slightly longer. Another thing to notice is they never give you the CCA capacity of a lithium battery … they just say it’s comparable to an AGM. A few companies are making lithium only Regulator/Rectifiers and it’s possible they may help extend the life of a lithium battery … but I don’t know anyone who’s changed their R/R.

I have a 3 year old Duralast Gold AGM battery I bought from AutoZone … I killed it once by forgetting to power down the bike at work (down to 9v) … my camera system recorded hours of the bike just sitting … 😂. I used a battery pack jump starter to start the bike and get home … The battery remains in the 12.7v +/- .1v range before starting … and rarely drops below 12.0v when starting… As always I’ll keep an eye on it and won’t be upset or surprised if I have to replace it next year … I’ll be very happy if I get another 2 years … I’ll replace it at 5 years regardless of condition …
 
I've only had two batteries in my vintage,the original battery lasted 5 years,I replaced it with a wicked start agm battery off of ebay.
It's still in there.
No tender and its dead every spring,I charge it and ride all summer,then back in the garage in winter till spring,then the charger comes back out.
What is really remarkable is a manards battery I bought for my riding mower,bought it many years ago,and again it's dead every spring yet holds a charge all summer.
Now that I've said that I'm sure I'll have to replace both.
I thought the mower battery finally gave up this spring,but it was the starter solenoid.
Couple of taps with a Cresent wrench and it started working lol
 
Renagade Wicked Start are great.
 
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Battery threads are becoming the new oil thread … And from now on I will only use full synthetic electrical DC Voltage in my TS111 … 😂

But seriously folks …

I think the best bang for your buck is a Bottle Supplied, AGM battery … You add the electrolyte, you charge and install it … Now you have the newest battery you can get
Bingo! Buy an AGM battery that hasn’t been activated. Then follow the activation and charging instructions to the letter. In 55+ years I can’t remember running anything other than a good old Yuasa wet cell or AGM battery in my motorcycle. Up until 1990 I had to kick them over so the battery wasn’t a real issue. Activating and initial charging is a little time consuming so a lot of people are in a hurry and take short cuts. After adding electrolyte and waiting for an hour or 2 the battery will start a motorcycle but it’s no where near fully charged. And depending on riding habits may never get to a fully charged state before the batteries lost a lot of its oomph.
 
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Wicked Start batteries are nothing more than a regular AGM battery, with a bunch of marketing hype.
I believed the 500 CCA over most batteries 310. 🍭
 
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My experience would prove otherwise 😉
Had one in my 17 Springfield w/116bbk for over 3 years. Always fired right up even on those cold Wyoming days. Never removed from bike during winter. I'd recommend the Renegade battery & it'll be my next replacement for my new 23 Challenger.
 
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Had one in my 17 Springfield w/116bbk for over 3 years. Always fired right up even on those cold Wyoming days. Never removed from bike during winter. I'd recommend the Renegade battery & it'll be my next replacement for my new 23 Challenger.
I too live in bitter cold Wyoming. 3 years 39k miles, Challenger Dark Horse with the OEM Yuasa still holding strong. I expect it will get me past 50 when I git me a new Pursuit about next fall lol. The OEM Yuasa lasted almost 4 years 50k miles on my ‘17 RM. I had to replace it, my fault for not checking the connection of the battery tender for 1/2 a winter. Don’t know anything about the Renegade batteries 500CCA sounds pretty impressive but is it a trade off for what’s called reserve capacity, not confused with AH capacity. In other words will the Renegade go dead quicker with the evil parasitic draw? Or if I accidentally leave my heated gear plugged into the unswitched acc. outlet
 
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Most battery issue here fall into several categories:

On Bosch MG1 ECU bikes (All Challengers, Pursuit, Chief)

Most if not all battery issue is due to parasitic draw due to the WCM modules not turning of and other ECM and VCM circuits not shutting down. Not all bikes have this issue, but the majority do. Most of the dead, bad battery issues come from these models.

Others

The other bikes are more to do with loose battery connections and lack of riding or not riding enough to fully charge the battery.



The other issue that applies to all bikes is a design error. Indian is running the full electronics load, stereo etc. when trying to start the bike, this alone puts a 3 - 5 + amp load on the battery. They should have only powered what was needed to start the engine.

Guys that have the more involved factory stereo systems will see harder starting issues because of this like the Pursuits and Roadmasters and or bikes will full saddle back and trunk stereos.
 
If you look at reviews of Wicked Start Batteries … Folks either love them or hate them … not much in between… Several folks started out liking the battery’s but were then disappointed when the batteries died after a year and a half …

I was wondering how Renegade Wicked Start Batteries packed soooooo many CCA’s in the same size battery (Group 20, for the heavyweight bikes) … Turns out there are two ways to get more CCA’s … Get a bigger battery … more lead, more electrolyte… OR … put as many lead plates as possible in a smaller battery … BUT … the trade off is the plates are thinner.

There’s conflicting information about Thin Plate Pure Lead battery structure…

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If you look at reviews of Wicked Start Batteries … Folks either love them or hate them … not much in between… Several folks started out liking the battery’s but were then disappointed when the batteries died after a year and a half …

I was wondering how Renegade Wicked Start Batteries packed soooooo many CCA’s in the same size battery (Group 20, for the heavyweight bikes) … Turns out there are two ways to get more CCA’s … Get a bigger battery … more lead, more electrolyte… OR … put as many lead plates as possible in a smaller battery … BUT … the trade off is the plates are thinner.

There’s conflicting information about Thin Plate Pure Lead battery structure…

.


Also seriously doubt they make their own batteries. Thier address is just an office suite in Phoenix. They like "other brands" have their batteries made to spec by someone else.
 
A month ago my second NOCO left me stranded at a gas station. Filled up and completely dead. I had to boost the bike to get home. I purchased a new Yuasa AGM. I'm done with lithium in this bike, Last fall my dealer did say that Polaris was telling them no lithium batteries.
 
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