battery recommendation

NOCO lithium NLP20, 600 cca ,5yr warranty, not much more expensive. Apx. $180. Only 3 months old but 5,000 mile . Still going strong

Drifter666 said:

NOCO lithium NLP20, 600 cca ,5yr warranty, not much more expensive. Apx. $180. Only 3 months old but 5,000 mile . Still going strong

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ive never used a lithium, pros and cons? does it fit in the housing? special battery tender etc.

thanks

The battery is smaller and lighter ,comes with spacers to fill the void. You will need to maintainer/charger compatible with lithium. Amazon sells the battery and chargers.

Drifter666 said:

The battery is smaller and lighter ,comes with spacers to fill the void. You will need to maintainer/charger compatible with lithium. Amazon sells the battery and chargers.

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It's time for me was well. Any die hard AGM guys out there? What would you recommend.

I'm not going to go through a long story, but I'm not sold on lithium just yet. My Raider is sitting waiting on a replacement Anti Gravity... hopefully.

I installed a Renegade "Wicked Start" 500+ CCA AGM battery on my Roadmaster, it has been great!!

RG20L-WS 12 Volt 20 Amp Battery 500+ CCA's | Renegade Battery

trainercb said:

ive never used a lithium, pros and cons? does it fit in the housing? special battery tender etc.

thanks

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I don't have first hand knowledge but talking to those that do I gleened...

Lithium batteries are compatible voltage to a 12v system, Lighter, higher energy density which allows mfg to have more total amp hours of reserve capacity for same volume. (of course this can be squandered by mfg making battery same amp hr as a traditional battery and using spacers to fill the volume gap)

Special tenter needed but many recent tenders already support Lithium.

I am told in very cold temps one needs to Turn on lights for a bit to force battery to warm itself making lights glow. only then does it have the juice to start engine.
Seems scary to me to "waste" juice on lights before starting but apparently that's what ya do.

I went for the Wicked Start 500 and would not recommend it. There are some who state that it's not really a 500 CCA battery but actually a 320 CCA. I was OK with that since it was about the same price as other 320 CCA. However, I followed the rules about not connecting a battery tender less it's going to be sitting for more than 3 weeks so I didn't. It was less than 3 weeks since I rode my bike and the battery was showing 10.2 vdc and wouldn't start the bike.

I still have it in the bike right now but I'm going to put the OEM back in and keep it on the tender if I'm not riding it for a week.

Navy has a Lithium Battery Safety program because of how volatile they are so I just don't trust them but others have recommended them so I may consider one next time.

@Goatlocker95
"What source is this "rule".
As far as I am aware a float charger can be used 24x7x365 independent of when bike is to used next. That said if bike to be used within days. Why bother putting it on a float charger. I feel most of us (ncluding me) don't bother connecting one during riding season. But as far as I know if we did-there is no harm in doing do.

OracleDba said:

@Goatlocker95
"What source is this "rule".
As far as I am aware a float charger can be used 24x7x365 independent of when bike is to used next. That said if bike to be used within days. Why bother putting it on a float charger. I feel most of us (ncluding me) don't bother connecting one during riding season. But as far as I know if we did-there is no harm in doing do.

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Their website

EvilMonkey said:

There’s a difference between a Lithium Ion and Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) Batteries. The majority of start batteries are LiFePO4 … In addition to the previous info … A LiFePO4 battery should have a BMS (Battery Management System) built in to prevent overcharging. 14.4v is the preferred charging voltage. They can handle 13.8-14.7v. 15v is the max, a BMS would stop the battery from charging so it wouldn’t get damaged … A few manufacturers are making lithium only regulator/rectifiers … once you change it out you can’t use AGM batteries without changing the R/R back…

I still prefer an AGM battery. It does everything I need it to do …

#3 is the main issue most folks are concerned with…

Here are some key differences between the two types of batteries:

1. Composition: LiFePO4 batteries use lithium iron phosphate as the cathode material, while lithium-ion batteries can use various cathode materials, such as cobalt oxide, manganese oxide, or nickel oxide.
2. Energy density: Lithium-ion batteries have a higher energy density than LiFePO4 batteries, which means they can store more energy in a given volume. This makes them more suitable for use in smaller, lighter EVs.
3. Safety: LiFePO4 batteries are generally considered safer than lithium-ion batteries, as they are less prone to overheating and catching fire.
4. Cost: LiFePO4 batteries are typically less expensive to produce than lithium-ion batteries, but they also have a lower energy density, so more are needed to power an EV, which can offset the cost advantage.
5. Performance: LiFePO4 and lithium-ion batteries can offer good performance in EVs, but the specific performance characteristics will depend on the particular battery design and chemistry.
6. 
   If you want to read the original … Lithium Iron Phosphate VS. Lithium Ion Batteries | Elcan Industries

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So what AGM battery are you using?

I don't have a NOCO battery. A lot of people like them. When I replace my battery, it will be a NOCO. I have other NOCO items and they are very well build and high quality material.

I've been using these below for a number of years in about every type of motorcycle, UTV/atv's and other vehicles. -BS stands for bottle (acid) suppled. Whatever you buy in AGM you want to buy the dry battery with the acid bottle. This means that the battery is not been activated and sitting for an unspecified period of time "aging" which is why many of these batteries and factory installed ones don't last. Instead when you add the acid the battery is new activated on that day and you know it's fresh. They are simple, pull off the sealing strip, press the bottle down on the battery, let it sit for 30-60 minutes. remove the empty bottle, install the sealing strip, charge, install.

Chiprivrat said:

I've been using these below for a number of years in about every type of motorcycle, UTV/atv's and other vehicles. -BS stands for bottle (acid) suppled. Whatever you buy in AGM you want to buy the dry battery with the acid bottle. This means that the battery is not been activated and sitting for an unspecified period of time "aging" which is why many of these batteries and factory installed ones don't last. Instead when you add the acid the battery is new activated on that day and you know it's fresh. They are simple, pull off the sealing strip, press the bottle down on the battery, let it sit for 30-60 minutes. remove the empty bottle, install the sealing strip, charge, install.

Yuasa YUAM620BH YTX20HL-BS Battery, One Size + Free Shipping

Buy Yuasa YUAM620BH YTX20HL-BS Battery, One Size: Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

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So this does fit, because the Amazon page says it doesn't?

MB Darkhorse said:

So this does fit, because the Amazon page says it doesn't?

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Here it is right from Indian:

Battery number is YTX20HL. -BS only means bottle suppled.

Cool thanks.

I had the Wicked start 500cc also and do not recommend it either. Wanted to go with the Noco but worried it would mess up the bike electronics, Went with the Duralast Gold.