It's too late for me, but perhaps this will help others avoid the expense of replacing a rotor...
During my 20K service, I was told the front pads were shot and needed to be replaced, which I did. I asked about the rear, and was told they were OK. At 23K, I noticed the rear brakes we making a rumbling sound and had noticeably less braking force. I've heard the sound of metal on metal from car rotors before, and this was quite different. The short story is that both rear pads were completely gone, and I ended up embedded some pad metal into the rotor. Since you can't turn these rotors, it cost about $600 to get back on the road.
Unlike the old metal scrapers that cars used to have, there is no real advanced warning on a bike. I won't make that mistake again and will be keeping a watchful eye on my pads. The front pads are easy to inspect, and with good lighting and the right angle, you can also see the rear pads, even with the bags on.
I hope this post helps someone avoid the extra expense. Check your pads if you're getting close to 20K miles on a set.
During my 20K service, I was told the front pads were shot and needed to be replaced, which I did. I asked about the rear, and was told they were OK. At 23K, I noticed the rear brakes we making a rumbling sound and had noticeably less braking force. I've heard the sound of metal on metal from car rotors before, and this was quite different. The short story is that both rear pads were completely gone, and I ended up embedded some pad metal into the rotor. Since you can't turn these rotors, it cost about $600 to get back on the road.
Unlike the old metal scrapers that cars used to have, there is no real advanced warning on a bike. I won't make that mistake again and will be keeping a watchful eye on my pads. The front pads are easy to inspect, and with good lighting and the right angle, you can also see the rear pads, even with the bags on.
I hope this post helps someone avoid the extra expense. Check your pads if you're getting close to 20K miles on a set.
