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Battery tender connection

4.6K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  freezeland  
#1 ·
for those who have gone before me and permanently connected a plug to their battery for battery tenders, how much of a pita was it?
 
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#2 ·
As easy as it could possibly be. I have several optimate 3 battery chargers which I feel are a great unit. It will take you only a few minutes to install and sort out where the pig tail will be. Secure the pig tail with cable ties and your good to go.
 
#3 ·
Figured it had to be easy. Probably takes longer to pop the seat off and look than to actually install the pig tail. Thanks for confirming.
 
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#4 ·
Don't let them kid you, it is a PITA to get to the battery on a Scout.
Still, it shouldn't take over a 1/2 hour!
Just make sure that you put the red one on the pos and the black on the neg.... So you don't have to do it again! :)
 
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#5 ·
Don't let them kid you, it is a PITA to get to the battery on a Scout.
Still, it shouldn't take over a 1/2 hour!
Just make sure that you put the red one on the pos and the black on the neg.... So you don't have to do it again! :)
Was afraid someone was going to say that, lol. I’ll get it done. Don’t know why they don’t have a pig tail installed from the factory to begin with like the 111’s.
 
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#7 ·
Didn't add one until I got the new battery.
The only stumbling block is the fuse panel atop the battery. Just pry on the tab at end/corner of FP and slide that thing aside (or rather back, as oriented to Scout) and access to the battery terminals is easy after you know how to go about it.
Be careful nothing else touches + or -, even if that doesn't need to be said.
 
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#8 ·
Dude, I just put one on mine a few weeks ago. The hard part is getting the seat off. I didn’t have to move anything. Red to red and black to the neg by the frame. 10 minutes. Run the wires out the side. They have a cap on them so doesn’t have to be hid somewhere.


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#9 ·
I put a Battery Tender Junior on last night. I removed the fuse box and hooked it directly to the battery. Took me 15 minutes tops. I was able to run the connector down the left side of the bike between the fuse box and frame, and then down towards the engine and zip tie it to one of the steel fuel vent lines. I can tuck it behind the frame right above the passenger peg when riding or reach in and pull it out when in the garage, without having to remove the seat.
 
#10 ·
I got it done. The juniors instructions recommended going to the frame connection for the negative lead. But I also pulled the fuse block and went negative battery terminal. I don’t like removing steel bolts in aluminum frames. They strip to easy. Best to leave those bolt locations unmolested if possible. Ran the pigtail out the corner by the diagnostic plug. Sits right behind left shock out of sight when not in use.
 
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