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Loosen the inner adjuster.That should bring it back towards the other side or the middle,BUT only a little bit.then try it it.If it is still running towards the right ,then adjust it a tad more and so forth until it gets away from that outside edge.I appologise for not getting back to you sooner.I lost my internet two weeks ago and just got it back a half hour ago. Dave!!!
 

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Maybe I am missing something, but is there somewhere that says the rear wheel should be lifted by the engine case such that the suspension is unloaded? I was thinking that jacking by the frame support behind the rear wheel was the correct place to lift.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
 

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If you look under the bike just in front of the rear wheel,you'll notice on each side of the frame,a round piece protruding downward which is off set.That's what I've been using as my lift point [I use a big scissors jack with a small piece of 2X4 between the those frame pieces and the jack] for tire R+R or anything else that requires raising the rear of the machine. Ca pishe???
 

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If you look under the bike just in front of the rear wheel,you'll notice on each side of the frame,a round piece protruding downward which is off set.That's what I've been using as my lift point [I use a big scissors jack with a small piece of 2X4 between the those frame pieces and the jack] for tire R+R or anything else that requires raising the rear of the machine. Ca pishe???
I do the same thing
 

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For belt adjustment? Rear wheel should be on the ground.
I hadn’t heard of anyone doing it by jacking up the suspension/frame. Of course belts are a new thing for me.

For belt adjustment,the wheel is OFF the ground which is per the manual,not to mention "common sense" when ya think about it!!! I learned that after hours of frustration trying to get the frigin belt adjusted properly on my Triumph,which was the first belt drive I ever owned!! It took me awhile to figure it out,but I finally got it and can now use that experience on ANY belt drive I should run into!!
 

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For belt adjustment,the wheel is OFF the ground which is per the manual,not to mention "common sense" when ya think about it!!! I learned that after hours of frustration trying to get the frigin belt adjusted properly on my Triumph,which was the first belt drive I ever owned!! It took me awhile to figure it out,but I finally got it and can now use that experience on ANY belt drive I should run into!!
Sorry for my mistake! You guys had me look at the service manual... not that I didn't believe you... "elevate" rear wheel! (btw, I posted that-- now deleted-- while out at a public place and didn't give it much thought. Too impulsive of me. I usually check info. Another example of why everyone shouldn't be taking everything online as truth!).

You jogged my memory of when I did the tension adjustment, only once, soon after I got my Scout. Had it up on a scissor jack. However, I kept tweaking on the alignment or tracking of the belt with it on the ground. Maybe I did that wrong, but I didn't change tension side.
I haven't touched the belt since the 10K service, when that was done by the workshop, and am now passed 20K. I was going to check it myself again, good thing I didn't yet.
 

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No as long as you keep the wrench at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench. If not, there is a simple formula to calculate the reduced torque reading by adding the additional length. But, I'm a simple person and just keep it at 90 degrees.

Here's a reference on how you need to position it. Look at the second photo down on the page.
I would have thought the hypotenuse would have had an effect on the torque but I guess not watch this Torque wrench video or this Torque wrench video where they use an even longer adapter. I start this video further into the video to skip over a lot of talking.
 

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Experience,and the SM for reference,is how we learn,and your BEST TEACHER,trying different methods,settings,etc., til ya get it right. (y);)
 

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One more thing I forgot to mention is,the lift points on the bottom of the frame are uneven,meaning ,when ya place your scissors jack under those lift points,the bike will go up at an angle,which ya don't want! Why?? Cause it could fall over.So what I do is use a small piece of 2x4 placed on top of the jack under each lift point,plus, another piece of 3/8 thick wood on top of the 2X4 on the low side so the machine will lift EVENLY,and not at an angle.You'll see what I mean when ya get into the job.WHY??? Cause ya do NOT want the bike to fall over and go BOOM which would be MOST EMBARRASSING!! :eek::oops: Dave!!!
 

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I have been trying to align the drive belt on my Chieftain (after changing the rear tire). I‘ve done this before and was able to get it running in the center of the teeth of the sprocket. This time, after adjusting the belt tension, I followed the manual but something strange is happening. When I rotate the tire backwards it goes to the inside of the sprocket, when I rotate the tire forward, the belt goes to the outside. If it is adjusted in the middle moving thetire in one direction it is rubbing against the side of the sprocket when the tire is turned in the other direction. I’m wondering if the rear tire and sprocket are not vertically aligned with the belt drive gear. Has anyone else had this problem?
 

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Belt driven bikes will always have the belt track to one side or the other, they all do it. As long as it isn’t rubbing against the pulley sides and the wheel is aligned properly you are good to go. Indian put of a service notice to dealers years ago saying they the belt would tend to track to one side of the other after ridden. The belt tension varies with temperature and suspension. And this causes it to track to either side.
 
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