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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, this is my second plea for help on this forum. I think I have the exhaust baffle problem under control for the time being. I will keep you posted. So... now I am at the point of pulling the inner primary cover which of course entails removing the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly. Well... after some failed tries with a breaker bar and a 2' extension on it I almost gave up. Just today I tried a borrowed 3/4" drive IR impact wrench and it did the trick. Got it loose and off very carefully without a problem. So - the next issue is the clutch assembly. I know it sounds really dumb, but the only info I have is You Tube videos. They all seem to be Harley related and show the removal of the adjuster bolt/locknut, then the snap ring and pressure plate. This does not exist on my bike as shown. It looks like I need to remove the 6 clutch basket bolts to gain access to removing the whole assembly so that it can be pulled off. My goal is to pull off the primary drive and inner primary cover to install new seals and o-rings while I have it apart this far. I can't seem to find any torque specs for the clutch basket bolts either, so I am apprehensive about taking them off. Any idea where to get info like that on this?
My bike is a 2001 Chief. The guy I bought it from had replaced the speedo and the original one had a dated sticker on it of September 2001 so this bike must have been cranked out near the end of the S&S era. It seems like there aren't any manuals that cover the 2001 wet primary, unless I am totally mistaken, and this is an aftermarket set up. Did Gilroy produce any Chiefs with a wet primary??
 

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<snip>
My bike is a 2001 Chief. The guy I bought it from had replaced the speedo and the original one had a dated sticker on it of September 2001 so this bike must have been cranked out near the end of the S&S era. It seems like there aren't any manuals that cover the 2001 wet primary, unless I am totally mistaken, and this is an aftermarket set up. Did Gilroy produce any Chiefs with a wet primary??
Yes - from 2001 through end of manufacture (@ Gilroy), plus the KM too also has compatible wet primary parts.

I am precisely in the same boat - 2001 Chief that also requires replacing the inner primary cover, seals, etc. Not because the seals were bad, but because some numb-nuts mechanic couldn't find the machining flaw in the outer primary cover. So after a couple of failed attempts (and subsequent reassembly with an impact driver) the inner primary sockets were either stripped, missing or failed to hold 8ft-lb torque. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

Your best bet is to snag a copy of the 2003 Chief manual from the Indian of Charlotte website. While several bits are different (e.g., trailing shock, swing arm, oil tank, etc.) the primary bits are identical. Plus they actually published a manual with real torque specs too! Check it out.

Another running change you may not be aware of ... the early wet primaries used an O-ring style gasket, with separate O-rings (attached) to fit around each bolt. This recess was machined into the Inner Primary cover, and needless to say, requires a different gasket than all of those that came after. You probably have this style inner primary cover (like me). If memory serves, this change occurred mid 2002 - but I defer to someone who actually knows something ('cuz I certainly don't! :)

kind regards,
Michael
YMMV
 

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WOW! $150 for that socket! How 'bout we all just borrow it from you? :)
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I've been following Michael's progress before pulling my primary apart. I do BTW have a primary that's grooved for the o-ring style gasket AND I happen to have a spare set of o-ring gaskets courtesy the previous owner! I plan to mic the gaskets and purchase additional o-ring rope of the same diameter for future replacements if it ever becomes necessary.
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@mmyjak - your contact at Aardvark advised me when installing the performance flat gaskets, if the o-ring gasket was still there to leave them in place and install the flat gaskets over them thus providing an even tighter seal. I think that would also compensate for minor milling errors on the primary faces - I think you mentioned a problem with that.
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I'm still blown away over the cost of that socket - what's the deal with that?
 

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There's another place you can get one for about 100 bucks. These are good tools. If you had a shop they'd get your money back for you quick. If I can find the link for the one I bought. I'll post it.
 

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I cut a socket in half and welded a piece of pipe in the middle to make it that deep.
 

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I'm seriously missing something here - the $100+ socket, I assume, fits the drive sprocket mounted to the engine shaft - right? So, looking at the pic from Oregontyee of the primary, what is there about that rather large nut on the drive gear that calls for the odd looking $100 socket? It looks like a socket and breaker bar would do the job. What am I missing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sounds like the expensive socket is for removing the hex nut that secures the rear drive pulley on the transmission shaft. I managed to get the 1 1/2" nut off the compensator sprocket on the engine shaft, but haven't seen anything behind the clutch yet. I didn't want to pull the clutch basket apart without some re-assembly info. I checked the Indian of Charlotte website for the 2003 service manual, but it came up with an error message (internal server error). Did a search and found it on this one though - Shared Files
Slow download! I'll check it out tomorrow.
 

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That socket is for removing the clutch basket retaining nut....you also have to remove the nut on the engine(not the guy riding....lol) and then you can slide both the front and back ends of the chain off the shafts...both engine and transmission......it really isn't too hard......
 

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Hello, new here.
Just did the tore my Scout down. I welded up a socket. Pretty much used most of the same specialty tools for a Harley EVO or shovel. If you do a google search there is a Indian Scout factory repair manual that you can download for free
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes - from 2001 through end of manufacture (@ Gilroy), plus the KM too also has compatible wet primary parts.

I am precisely in the same boat - 2001 Chief that also requires replacing the inner primary cover, seals, etc. Not because the seals were bad, but because some numb-nuts mechanic couldn't find the machining flaw in the outer primary cover. So after a couple of failed attempts (and subsequent reassembly with an impact driver) the inner primary sockets were either stripped, missing or failed to hold 8ft-lb torque. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

Your best bet is to snag a copy of the 2003 Chief manual from the Indian of Charlotte website. While several bits are different (e.g., trailing shock, swing arm, oil tank, etc.) the primary bits are identical. Plus they actually published a manual with real torque specs too! Check it out.

Another running change you may not be aware of ... the early wet primaries used an O-ring style gasket, with separate O-rings (attached) to fit around each bolt. This recess was machined into the Inner Primary cover, and needless to say, requires a different gasket than all of those that came after. You probably have this style inner primary cover (like me). If memory serves, this change occurred mid 2002 - but I defer to someone who actually knows something ('cuz I certainly don't! :)

kind regards,
Michael
YMMV
Good info in that 2003 manual, thanks for the tip! And yes I sure do have that primary cover with the groove. It looks like the O-ring is square in shape rather than round - is this normal?? Spirit01 says Aardvark advised leaving this in and installing the flat gasket over it, maybe that's the way to go when closing this thing up? I'm not to that point right now anyway. I just took the clutch cover off exposing the clutch hub nut. Looks like that nut is 1 3/16", and I have a basic socket set that skips that size, so next step is to buy some more sockets. Is that nut right or left hand?
 

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I'm not sure I understand what you guys are trying to do... Are you removing the transmission sprocket to replace it... or the seal behind it??

Mine was clean behind the inner primary -


It had a tiny little (grease?) stain as you can see in the picture above at about the 4 o'clock position.

Oregon - yes, you just need to hold the pulley fast. I braced the back wheel with a stout piece of wood (pine). Catch the spokes on the top side of the axle on top of the swing arm as far forward as possible. NOTE: The Transmission nut is a left-hand thread and its torqued to something like 85 ft.lbs so be prepared - you may need an extension on your pull-bar and socket setup. (I did.) The rear nut was much easier to take off then the compensator sprocket, IMHO.



Also tell yourself that you WILL replace all of the locking tabs inside the inner primary - ALL of them. Its not worth having a catastrophic failure of a loose bolt floating around in there at speed at the savings of a few bucks. (Three of mine were totally loose - and held in only because of the lock tabs. Good o'le Gilroy Quality!)
Caveat Emptor - I reckon.

Kind regards,
-=- Michael
 

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Oh - I forgot to say that yes, you'll need to retain the original O-ring style gasket if you wish to put a flat gasket in there. (You have to do something to fill-in those ridges!) I believe the replacement is rather squared off - but I haven't looked at it recently either.

I do believe they're still floating around ebay from time to time. If you need a new one, float me an IM. I have 1 spare I'm not likely to use since my replacement inner primary was from a later year.

- /\/\
 

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Oh - I forgot to say that yes, you'll need to retain the original O-ring style gasket if you wish to put a flat gasket in there. (You have to do something to fill-in those ridges!) I believe the replacement is rather squared off - but I haven't looked at it recently either.

I do believe they're still floating around ebay from time to time. If you need a new one, float me an IM. I have 1 spare I'm not likely to use since my replacement inner primary was from a later year.

- /\/\
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The fellow at Aardvark said if the o-ring gasket was damaged or missing to fill the groove with silicon - I wasn't too fond of that idea so when I discovered an extra o-ring set in the parts bag I inherited, I was most pleased.
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@OregonTyee - I seem to recall the o-ring set I have is squarish as well, not perfectly round. I've been told the o-ring gaskets have been discontinued so if you decide not to take @mmyjak up on his offer to buy his, let me know, I will be interested. I still think, worst case, a person could purchase o-ring rope and successfully build a set of gaskets, sans bolt holes.
 

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I can get you any of the gaskets you need.....

Frank at Blackhawk motorworks

Joe Malfa in Reno......

Irma at Crazyhorsemotorcycles.com


Kim the gasket girl can also get you gaskets.......
 

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Silicone works...I use it when replacing the inner primary o ring to help keep the o ring in place while assembling......use black...wipe the extra off and you'll never know it is there.....
 

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I'm not sure I understand what you guys are trying to do... Are you removing the transmission sprocket to replace it... or the seal behind it??

Mine was clean behind the inner primary -


It had a tiny little (grease?) stain as you can see in the picture above at about the 4 o'clock position.

Oregon - yes, you just need to hold the pulley fast. I braced the back wheel with a stout piece of wood (pine). Catch the spokes on the top side of the axle on top of the swing arm as far forward as possible. NOTE: The Transmission nut is a left-hand thread and its torqued to something like 85 ft.lbs so be prepared - you may need an extension on your pull-bar and socket setup. (I did.) The rear nut was much easier to take off then the compensator sprocket, IMHO.



Also tell yourself that you WILL replace all of the locking tabs inside the inner primary - ALL of them. Its not worth having a catastrophic failure of a loose bolt floating around in there at speed at the savings of a few bucks. (Three of mine were totally loose - and held in only because of the lock tabs. Good o'le Gilroy Quality!)
Caveat Emptor - I reckon.

Kind regards,
-=- Michael
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Looking at your pics it suddenly occurs to me when I get to this point perhaps I should consider replacing the drive belt? My bike has roughly 10k mi on it which isn't so bad but I'm betting the drive belt is original and given how rubber deteriorates with age, should I be concerned? It looks fine but that's not always proof of integrity...
 
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