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Discussion Starter #1
How much is involved in valve spring swap? Do you have to remove engine or can it be done on bike? Anyone know how many hours shop would charge? I'm considering doing Lloydz cams but not without spring change. Thanks
 

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At minimum you have to lower or tilt engine out of the frame far enough to pull valve covers. Springs may be changed without pulling the heads. If you had to do front-end work as well, and if it entailed pulling forks etc., Then it could possibly save some time by pulling frame backbone rather than dropping engine. Either way, you are in for quite a bit of labor.
 

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dieselgman is correct, more room needs to be made (engine coming down, or backbone going up) Knowing what a shop would charge is kinda tough. It’s a job that’s 90% labor and different shops will have different hourly rates and different ways of calculating how many hours to charge.
 

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dieselgman is correct, more room needs to be made (engine coming down, or backbone going up) Knowing what a shop would charge is kinda tough. It’s a job that’s 90% labor and different shops will have different hourly rates and different ways of calculating how many hours to charge.
And they will qoute book hours so its gonna be spensive Lucy.
 

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That is one reason why I am leaning towards just biting the bullet and getting the 116 kit done when I get back to the US...they have to swap the springs anyway (2017 RM), so it is all included in the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thats what I'm trying to do now. I can get the 116 done for 3700$ so I want to figure the best bang for the buck. Either way I figure I have to eventually get it tuned as well. I believe that you have to buy a pv3 or similiar.
Is there anything else to upgrade while in there? Chain tensioner?
 

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Thats what I'm trying to do now. I can get the 116 done for 3700$ so I want to figure the best bang for the buck. Either way I figure I have to eventually get it tuned as well. I believe that you have to buy a pv3 or similiar.
Is there anything else to upgrade while in there? Chain tensioner?
You should have them put in the 2019 cam tensioner while they are changing the cams.

The spring change out is about 11 hours labor. If dealer is doing this, then IMHO, it is a better choice to go the the BBK.
 

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You should have them put in the 2019 cam tensioner while they are changing the cams.

The spring change out is about 11 hours labor. If dealer is doing this, then IMHO, it is a better choice to go the the BBK.
As I get older, it is time vs money. I can do the cams myself, if I rent the tool from somewhere. However, with the issues coming to light with the 2018 and earlier valve springs and ANY aftermarket cams other than Indian Stage 2, I would prefer to not take the chance of grenading my engine at some time in the future. With that in mind, I could probably do the valve spring swap myself, but it is more time than I really want to spend wrenching that I could be spending doing other things. Same reason why I am about to drop 550 Euro on a clutch swap for my beater that I got for free. I could spend a weekend swapping out the clutch, but that is a whole weekend that I could be spending doing something else.
 
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In Wisconsin, we have a ton of down time in the winter. That is when I will be doing my springs as my labor is free. I agree with Craig that if you are paying a shop to do the springs, BBK the bike.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
 

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In Wisconsin, we have a ton of down time in the winter. That is when I will be doing my springs as my labor is free. I agree with Craig that if you are paying a shop to do the springs, BBK the bike.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
I have about 4 months-ish of downtime here, once they put salt on the roads...but I have no garage.
 
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Thats what I'm trying to do now. I can get the 116 done for 3700$ so I want to figure the best bang for the buck. Either way I figure I have to eventually get it tuned as well. I believe that you have to buy a pv3 or similiar.
Is there anything else to upgrade while in there? Chain tensioner?
You don't have to buy the tuner , but it will be the best thing you can do as the generic tune is crap and rough,The PV3 will smooth everything out give you a little more HP and torque . The chain tensioner has had bout 3 updates so depending on the year of your bike it might be advisable while the engine is out regardless, as it is a not expensive to do while your got everything out and a good way to go. I had the 116 kit and to be honest bang for buck I found the stage 2 set up good enough. The cost of the 116 kit for what you gain is ok but not worth the big dollars in my opinion. If your getting it free then do it as that is when you can say it was worth the change.
 
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