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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thinking about converting the directional lights to running lights on my Chieftain. Is removing the taillight assembly (3 screws) as easy as the Custom Dynamics video makes it appear? I am not a gifted mechanic. : (
 

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The taillight assembly on my Springfield fell off a year or so ago, all the screws loosened and dropped out along the road. I noticed it hanging from the wiring as I was fuelling up. I taped it up until I got home to fix it.

The three screws holding it are accessible, but the tyre really gets in the way. The biggest problem for me was lining them up with the holes in the fitting. It's almost impossible to get into a position where you can see the screws as you try to get the thread started.

If I were to do it again I'd have the bike on a lift so the rear wheel drops away as far as possible to make it a bit more roomy for the spanner. Second thing I'd do is grind the ends of the screws into a short taper so they find the hole before the thread has to be matched up. Don't forget thread locker.

Seeing the tail light hanging upside down at the fuel stop made me wonder what it was like for others on the highway as I changed lanes and the indicators were indicating back to front.
 

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Thinking about converting the directional lights to running lights on my Chieftain. Is removing the taillight assembly (3 screws) as easy as the Custom Dynamics video makes it appear? I am not a gifted mechanic. : (
No not hard - but dirty and a pain to get to. 3 bolts and about 30 mins. - Had to get the right tools for it. Might be easier if you drop the rear wheel.
 

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Thinking about converting the directional lights to running lights on my Chieftain. Is removing the taillight assembly (3 screws) as easy as the Custom Dynamics video makes it appear? I am not a gifted mechanic. : (
It’s very doable. I did it on my 2015 Chieftain. I used their module to turn my rear signals into running lights along with braking and turning (RTB) I don’t know about your state, but in California your running lights must be red. I changed out to Radiantz turn signals. Cheaper than Custom Dynamics and I liked the hood on the Radiantz. But you can’t go wrong on the Custom Dynamics. Be sure to pull the fuse for those lights before you work on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I appreciate the helpful input. My nephew, who is a auto/machine mechanic, is going to help me. Feel much more confident with him overseeing the project. Hope to perform the upgrade this coming week. Will post the results. : )
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It’s very doable. I did it on my 2015 Chieftain. I used their module to turn my rear signals into running lights along with braking and turning (RTB) I don’t know about your state, but in California your running lights must be red. I changed out to Radiantz turn signals. Cheaper than Custom Dynamics and I liked the hood on the Radiantz. But you can’t go wrong on the Custom Dynamics. Be sure to pull the fuse for those lights before you work on it.
You mentioned pulling the fuse. Disconnecting the negative wire of the battery not enough?
 

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You are correct. It’s been a while since I did this. Disconnecting the negative wire from the battery is what you need to do. I didn’t which resulted in me pulling the fuse to replace it. You will love the results.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks. I ordered everything from Custom Dynamics - red led turn signals and triple wiring harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
You are correct. It’s been a while since I did this. Disconnecting the negative wire from the battery is what you need to do. I didn’t which resulted in me pulling the fuse to replace it. You will love the results.


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I will feel safer, that’s for sure. Have always felt a single tail light was never enough. On my previous bike, a Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe, I mounted four red Kuryakyn Silver Bullets on the support bar that ran from saddlebag to saddlebag underneath the tail light. Made a world of difference!
 

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Thinking about converting the directional lights to running lights on my Chieftain. Is removing the taillight assembly (3 screws) as easy as the Custom Dynamics video makes it appear? I am not a gifted mechanic. : (
@DWS22HOF
Before you start this project, I have a question. If you are using the module from Custom Dynamics to convert the taillights, I assume it is the Triple Play module that also converts the brake light to a flasher? If so, you don't need to drop the light assembly. That module plugs in under the seat behind the battery. Plug, adjust flash pattern, and go. Only wrench needed is a 6mm hex key to remove the seat.

Having said that, if you DO need to pull the taillight assembly (maybe you wanted to change out the LED bulbs to the smoked versions) then know that one of the PITA issues is getting the wiring harness through the assembly. I finally just soldered the new smoked lenses into the the wiring harness.

Recommended tools for pulling the taillight assembly.
  • 1/4" drive ratchet. 10mm 1/4" drive socket.
  • Small side cutters to remove old tie wraps.
  • Extra tie wraps
  • Blue lock-tite for the bolts when going back
  • Light so you can see. Safety glasses so the dirt won't fall in your eyes.
Jack up the bike so you can get under the fender. Dropping the wheel helps but is not necessary.

PS
I did not need to pull the fuse or wring from the battery to install the Triple Play module. It just isn't necessary. The plug where the Triple Play is installed is above the battery.

Now if you are going to splice into ANYTHING -- pull the negative lead on the battery first!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
@DWS22HOF
Before you start this project, I have a question. If you are using the module from Custom Dynamics to convert the taillights, I assume it is the Triple Play module that also converts the brake light to a flasher? If so, you don't need to drop the light assembly. That module plugs in under the seat behind the battery. Plug, adjust flash pattern, and go. Only wrench needed is a 6mm hex key to remove the seat.

Having said that, if you DO need to pull the taillight assembly (maybe you wanted to change out the LED bulbs to the smoked versions) then know that one of the PITA issues is getting the wiring harness through the assembly. I finally just soldered the new smoked lenses into the the wiring harness.

Recommended tools for pulling the taillight assembly.
  • 1/4" drive ratchet. 10mm 1/4" drive socket.
  • Small side cutters to remove old tie wraps.
  • Extra tie wraps
  • Blue lock-tite for the bolts when going back
  • Light so you can see. Safety glasses so the dirt won't fall in your eyes.
Jack up the bike so you can get under the fender. Dropping the wheel helps but is not necessary.

PS
I did not need to pull the fuse or wring from the battery to install the Triple Play module. It just isn't necessary. The plug where the Triple Play is installed is above the battery.

Now if you are going to splice into ANYTHING -- pull the negative lead on the battery first!
Here in Ohio, according to my research, rear driving lights need to be red. My goal is to make myself as visible as possible. Since the stock turn signals are amber, I need to convert them to red. I felt the easiest plan would be to purchase Custom Dynamics Triple Play module harness AND their red led turn signals for compatibility sake. Once installed, my tail light and directional signals will be red led lights, on when the bike is running, and the bike will be more visible while cruising and braking.
 

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Here in Ohio, according to my research, rear driving lights need to be red. My goal is to make myself as visible as possible. Since the stock turn signals are amber, I need to convert them to red. I felt the easiest plan would be to purchase Custom Dynamics Triple Play module harness AND their red led turn signals for compatibility sake. Once installed, my tail light and directional signals will be red led lights, on when the bike is running, and the bike will be more visible while cruising and braking.
OK.
Then for ONLY the Triple Play my comments stand.

If you are changing the actual lights, it will be a PITA. I changed mine to amber/smoke. $100 from CD and a couple of hours worth of work. Getting the taillight assembly off isn't as much of a problem is getting the wire splices in place. The CD lights will be bare wires (needing a splice). It was easier to pull the OEM lights out far enough to have enough wire to splice. Cut, splice and solder. My solder connections require less space than any crimp connectors. You won't have much space inside the turn signal housing for a connector. Nor, under taillight assembly.
As I recall, the CD video is pretty good. If not, check Youtube.
If I had pics, I would share them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK.
Then for ONLY the Triple Play my comments stand.

If you are changing the actual lights, it will be a PITA. I changed mine to amber/smoke. $100 from CD and a couple of hours worth of work. Getting the taillight assembly off isn't as much of a problem is getting the wire splices in place. The CD lights will be bare wires (needing a splice). It was easier to pull the OEM lights out far enough to have enough wire to splice. Cut, splice and solder. My solder connections require less space than any crimp connectors. You won't have much space inside the turn signal housing for a connector. Nor, under taillight assembly.
As I recall, the CD video is pretty good. If not, check Youtube.
If I had pics, I would share them.
According to CD’s video, their Pro Beam red led tail lights are a simple plug-and-play. Their video shows disconnecting 4 snap connections after removing the tail light assembly, swap the tail lights, plug the new lights into the snap connections, zip tie the wiring, and remount the tail light assembly. If it is a major hassle, I will return them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK.
Then for ONLY the Triple Play my comments stand.

If you are changing the actual lights, it will be a PITA. I changed mine to amber/smoke. $100 from CD and a couple of hours worth of work. Getting the taillight assembly off isn't as much of a problem is getting the wire splices in place. The CD lights will be bare wires (needing a splice). It was easier to pull the OEM lights out far enough to have enough wire to splice. Cut, splice and solder. My solder connections require less space than any crimp connectors. You won't have much space inside the turn signal housing for a connector. Nor, under taillight assembly.
As I recall, the CD video is pretty good. If not, check Youtube.
If I had pics, I would share them.
 

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Ok. These are new to me. Yes, they look much easier to install because you install the entire light housing. I was referring to the models where you just replace the LED bulb assembly. Running the wires through the small holes into the assembly is a PITA.
They recommend a small screwdriver for releasing the plugs. I say spend a few $$ on a set of picks.
Also, either use painter's tape, or a cloth to cove your lower fender. It is too easy to drop the assembly and scratch the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok. These are new to me. Yes, they look much easier to install because you install the entire light housing. I was referring to the models where you just replace the LED bulb assembly. Running the wires through the small holes into the assembly is a PITA.
They recommend a small screwdriver for releasing the plugs. I say spend a few $$ on a set of picks.
Also, either use painter's tape, or a cloth to cove your lower fender. It is too easy to drop the assembly and scratch the paint.
Good tip as to the painter’s tape - thanks! ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Installation Update:

Finally installed Custom Dynamics’ Smart Triple Play Wiring Harness and Pro Beam Red LED Turn Signals on my 2015 Chieftain. Installation is not difficult IF you have two people. Nor was the programming once we called the company and a technician pointed out the instructions are for a Harley, even though the wiring harness is for an Indian. Once we flipped-flopped the order of switches to be set as directed by the technician, the programming worked. I went with the #1 Setting (you have 9 choices) which is 4 flashes, solid for 3 seconds, and then repeat. I am very happy with the results! Feel it is money well spent. ?

I would recommend everyone checking the tightness of the three bolts that hold the tail light assembly in place. Dr.Shifty shared his experience with his tail light assembly coming completely off and hanging by the wires. When I went to loosen the bolts, I could remove two of them with my fingers and the third one gave VERY little resistance when I put a box end wrench on it. ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
One more thing, I mentioned the installation not being difficult if you have two people. The second person does not have to be mechanically inclined (that was me during this installation). The second person simply needs to hold the tail light assembly while the three bolts are being removed and then continue holding it while the talented person (my nephew) cuts the zip ties (3) and disconnects the wiring connectors (4). Then simply reverse the procedure after the new turn signals are installed on the tail light assembly.
 
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