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I want to use the clutch to kick off the cruise but I have to pull it in too far and the engine Revs up. How do you shut yours off?
 

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Go to the dealer and have them put a new switch in the clutch linkage. Mine would not disengage with the clutch. It should. Factory error and a little unknown till you ask dealer about a fix. Found it to be dangerous, especially after 10 years on a bike that had cruise with clutch disengagement. Throttle roll, brake tap, and clutch are all standard. Some bikes got bypassed at the factory on the clutch.
 

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I have had my grips wrapped and they say that is the issue, that the grips are too fat, does anyone have a manual that states how far you should pull back the lever before it engages?
 

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roll your throttle completely to decelerate until it stops.
Absolutely true. Roll your throttle forward (decelerate) and it is a smooth turn off of the cruise. Learned this from the dealer.
 

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I want to use the clutch to kick off the cruise but I have to pull it in too far and the engine Revs up. How do you shut yours off?
I had the same problem on my Classic. Dealer replaced switch, solved problem. I still get more engine rev when disengaging with the clutch than I am used to (BMW's), but it works. Normally I disengage with the throttle or brakes, but there are times when you need to grab that clutch and front brake real fast and don't really have time for a quick throttle roll...
 

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The cruise control throttle disconnect on the Chief is much better than was on my 2013 Vision. Rolling off the throttle on the Vision made the bike decelerate too much for my liking so I touched the front brake lever to turn off the cruise instead. But the Chief instantly turns off the cruise via the throttle. It must be an advantage of the fly by wire throttle.
 

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I just use the on/off switch.
 

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I have had my grips wrapped and they say that is the issue, that the grips are too fat, does anyone have a manual that states how far you should pull back the lever before it engages?
They are full of crap. The clutch switch should register almost as soon as you start to pull the clutch lever. If it does not, it is not working correctly. That switch needs to tell the computer that you are pulling the clutch in as soon as you start the motion.

Like others have said, it's a common issue that is known. Make the dealer do the work to fix it while the warranty is still good. Be prepared though, mine has been verified bad by the dealer, and a new one is on order, but it's under "supply chain issues". :rolleyes:
 

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The clutch switch is designed for a start in gear with the kick stand up start. The clutch lever there for needs to fully disengage the clutch so it will start while in gear. The roll off of the throttle works best for me to disengage the cruise then throttle back up some to level out.
 

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tap front brake it for me is smooth
 

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I too have been tapping the front break... but will try the "roll throttle off" method on the way home from work this afternoon!

Thanks for the tip!

UPDATE: Roll off works great... again, thanks for the tip!

Cheers,
D-Man
 

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I use the on off button but will try the the roll forward next time I use it
 

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The clutch switch is designed for a start in gear with the kick stand up start. The clutch lever there for needs to fully disengage the clutch so it will start while in gear. The roll off of the throttle works best for me to disengage the cruise then throttle back up some to level out.
It was designed for more than just that. It was also used to tell the computer that you had not fully released the clutch lever yet so that you could use the brakes in a parking lot type situation while slipping the clutch, without engaging the BTO. This application required it to register with the clutch partially engaged, and is why some folks never noticed the BTO. I found out on mine that the clutch switch was not working from day 1, and had a lot of issues with BTO at low speeds, as well as during trail braking in tight twisties.
 
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