I had the same problem on my Classic. Dealer replaced switch, solved problem. I still get more engine rev when disengaging with the clutch than I am used to (BMW's), but it works. Normally I disengage with the throttle or brakes, but there are times when you need to grab that clutch and front brake real fast and don't really have time for a quick throttle roll...I want to use the clutch to kick off the cruise but I have to pull it in too far and the engine Revs up. How do you shut yours off?
They are full of crap. The clutch switch should register almost as soon as you start to pull the clutch lever. If it does not, it is not working correctly. That switch needs to tell the computer that you are pulling the clutch in as soon as you start the motion.I have had my grips wrapped and they say that is the issue, that the grips are too fat, does anyone have a manual that states how far you should pull back the lever before it engages?
It was designed for more than just that. It was also used to tell the computer that you had not fully released the clutch lever yet so that you could use the brakes in a parking lot type situation while slipping the clutch, without engaging the BTO. This application required it to register with the clutch partially engaged, and is why some folks never noticed the BTO. I found out on mine that the clutch switch was not working from day 1, and had a lot of issues with BTO at low speeds, as well as during trail braking in tight twisties.The clutch switch is designed for a start in gear with the kick stand up start. The clutch lever there for needs to fully disengage the clutch so it will start while in gear. The roll off of the throttle works best for me to disengage the cruise then throttle back up some to level out.