Everything that I have ordered through Amazon or Cheap Cycle Parts has gotten here in the usual time, probably because it goes to an APO AE address, and not a German residential address. Shipping from the US to an APO address is standard USPS Priority Mail.
The KST bars, even with the addition of the Rox Risers, were too wide for my t-rex arms, as I am only 5'7" tall. I lost a lot of control while doing low-speed maneuvers such as the offset cone weave and the u-turn box. As I am a certified RiderCoach, I have to demonstrate the maneuvers when I am instructing. It looks bad if the Coach can't do the maneuvers.
At the moment, the bike will remain parked until a fix happens. Fortunately, I have my beater van to get to and from work.
It's only a known issue if the cable ends aren't lubed properly at every oil change interval. Have 30K on my '15RM and it's still the original. 15K on the '14 Vintage and still original. This is the same style cable/perch setup on the Vics and my XC has 70K and I am on the 2nd clutch cable - replaced at 55K purely for precautionary reason. It's not a bad cable, and the Barnett won't magically erase the need for maintaining the cable barrel at the perch end, or the clutch shaft end. It's about 30 mins of work and isn't hard to do.
The cables themselves are never meant to be lubed - they have a teflon sleeve making lube unnecessary. The idea is to lube the pivot points and barrel ends on the clutch perch and the gear shaft (under the tranny). Some people use a syringe with a thick needle to inject lithium or moly grease. I disengage the cable from both ends, clean the barrels and pivot points and re-lube with a q-tip and basic moly lube.
Good to know. Evidently the dealer does not do this because both of the bikes I know of are dealer maintained and this still happened.
You can't solder the broken wires back together but there is a home made fix if you have sufficient inner cable. It's something that we used to do in my days racing dirt bikes. The major difference is that we used to use plain outer cable that was not fitted with end pieces. That meant we could cut the outer cable an inch shorter and just push it into the end socket.
It's in the recommended service interval at 500 and then every 10K service after that. If the dealer doesn't do it and you are paying for the prescribed service intervals, I would have a slight issue with that. I do it at the oil change interval cause it's easier for me to remember that way, and I don't mind an over-abundance of caution.
