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Tail light swap without chassis code?

7782 Views 36 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  lahti35
I'd like to swap out my tail light/smooth the rear fender on my Scout 60, but i've read searching here where doing so causes issues with the computer/error code and this is a canbus light setup? The light i want to use takes an 1157 type bulb and i see 1157 canbus bulbs around on the internet. I'm pretty handy with how everything electrical works but I have little experience with canbus when it comes to lighting nor how to "trick" the computer.

Has anyone put a different tail light on all together and been able to keep the error code off? Seeing it would drive me crazy, even if all the lights were working properly. I'd even be OK with hiding the stock light or it's module that talks to the computer UNDER the fender and blacked out to get the electronics to play ball if need be, but i see other threads of guys not able to even get a second tail light working properly with the stock, let alone without?
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I found a new take-off fender with light assy on ebay and it's on the way. I want to use the below light, so that will let me fill and smooth the rear fender while still riding, and then i can modify the light assy and keep plugging it into the bike and testing for a chassis fault.

On the turns i see others here just use the right led bulbs so that should be easy enough. With the tail light, i might just split the circuit from the light, tap into the power and ground AFTER the module (where it would go to the LED lights), and hide the module after waterproofing in the "cavity" under where the light would be. If that doesn't work, i'll try LED bulbs in the taillight and try again.

No matter what, definitely excited i scored a relatively cheap mint fender and light assy.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have the spare fender and light sitting there but been working on other projects, enjoying summer, etc.

My plan was to take the light apart, and tap into the power AFTER the circuit board controller going to the LEDs and connect it to the model a light, and put LED bulbs in the model a housing.

Then, since the fender was smoothed, there would still be a hollow space under that where the light used to recess into. I could hide that whole package there. That way, the circuit board is still there to talk to the computer, and the LED bulbs should have the same load, and hopefully the computer doesn't complain.
 

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I like your idea, and I'm going to play off it a bit. 1. How do you plan on waterproofing the housing from the underside of the fender for the computer? and 2. I cracked open my tail light today to see what kind of wiring I will need to be doing, and found it has 3 wires going to lights. I'll only need 2 to go to the housings. Any Idea of how to accomplish this? I have an electric nerd friend coming over to give me some pointers, just wondering if you knew off the top of your head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You could be ghetto and coat your whole finished project in silicone. I was likely going to put it all in a small waterproof "project box" of the smallest size. You could dip it in some kind of epoxy like they did? Also, after smoothing the fender and taking the LED side off, may be easier to seal than i'm thinking of. This is all in my head at this point because i'm in car project mode at the moment.

I haven't looked closely, but generally 3 wires is ground, marker, and brake-on. for turns it'd be ground, marker, and turn-on.
 

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@cortcomp this may be of some help:

Thank you for your interest in Custom Dynamics for your 2015 Indian Scout! Unfortunately, at this time we cannot advise any product for the application of add-on brake lights OR add-on turn signals. There are no issues with adding accent lights and/or additional running lights to Indian models, however, because of how the Indian models electrical system is set up, a separate ground wire is required for every function and this limits the fitments/applications that we’re able to offer. Currently the only electrical module we offer that is compatible with the Indian is the Universal Magic Strobes (P/N: MAGIC-STROBES-UNV) (Indians cannot use our Signal Stabilizer or SMART Triple Play).

Below I’ve included some links to the accent lights that we offer along with some driving lights which could be used on your ’15 Scout. Please feel free to review the information/webpages and let me know if you have any additional questions/concerns!

· Accent Lights

o Magical Wizard Lights™ (color changing)

o MagicFLEX2® (single color)

· Cool Magic™ Driving Lights (Add-On Driving Lights)

I know there is a lot of information to review online, so please feel free to let me know if you have additional questions/concerns! I’d be happy to review any/all details with you and/or place the order with you over the phone. You can email me back directly at [email protected] or can call 1-800-382-1388 and simply ask for Erin (Business Hours: 8:30am - 5:30pm EST Monday - Thursday; Closed Noon - 1pm & 9:30am - 5:30pm EST Friday; Closed Noon - 1pm). Thank you again for considering Custom Dynamics, have a wonderful afternoon!

Thank you,
Erin
[email protected]

Customer Service
EVERYTHING To Light Up Your Ride!®
Custom Dynamics LLC®
15 Cypress Drive
Youngsville, NC 27596
http://www.customdynamics.com
Phone: 800-382-1388
Phone: 919-554-0949
Fax: 919-882-9611
 

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not to far off track:

History, I need to preface this thread with: I have hyper lites multi function lights front and back on my Scout and they work fine in all modes / functions because the brains are built into the modules.

My "however" Issue:

I've been working on my Rizoma Club multi-function LED running lights / turn signals / brake lights in an attempt to get all functions to work. I can get a single function to work but after many failed ideas and attempts to get their multi-function aspects to work, I decided to do some research.

Seems most of the American brands (H-D, Victory, Indian) only run single function turn signals front and rear. Therefore, installing a dual function or 3-way turn signal will not work without a module installed as well.
It appears that some forum members have figured out how to do this by using mini-relays on each light.

I have found a dual function module from Lazer Star lights that converts a single-function turn signal to a dual function signal. This would solve my problem up front and allow the front turn signals to work as running lights. Lazer Star Lights - LED light bars & Lighting Accessories
I can get this part thru Parts Unlimited for $73.95.

As for the rear, I need something that will run 3-ways. Badlands makes an illuminator module that will allow run/brake/turn signals to function on bikes that are originally designed with single function only. This module would allow my Rizoma rear turn signals / running lites / brake lites to function fully.

NAMZ . CUSTOM CYCLE PRODUCTS
Have any of you wire wizards used Badlands' products? Thoughts? Ideas?
 

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I took the two reflectors on the back off of my chieftain ,then took the mounting brackets and straightened them and put two led marker lights for a semi trailer on and wired them for tail lights.They are nice and bright,and it looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm back on this. I broke the light down to the module that controls everything and has the three wires out, (a,b,c). B is ground as you mentioned sac. Curiously, you'd think A or C would be 12v all the time for markers and one would only get 12v when the brakes come on. It seems A and C always have 12v. one seems to power the two lowest LEDs and the other seems to power the rest of them. no idea why split, maybe a safety thing where you still have a little light if one circuit breaks?

Anyways, from the markings on the light, i don't think brakes and markers are controlled through 12v on/12v off. I think they're all on all the time, and more wattage is allowed to be drawn when the brake lights come on?

If so, i'm thinking i could just tie A and C together and tie it to the positive of the brake light socket and put an LED bulb in it. Dim when marker and bright when brakes. It worked when i tested it with an LED 1157 bulb (i'd be using single pole vs double though).

Is that what you ended up with SAC? And are you getting any warning lights on your cluster or anything?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
From the label on the light, the bulbs would get about .5 watts in marker and 4 watts in brake. These seem to be 4watt 1156 bulbs below.

My old ford style light has two bulbs...one for marker/license plate and one for brakes. I may put the stock license plate led bulb into the marker/tail light area and wire the tail light A/C+B to the brake side.

I'd THINK it should all work and not set any codes or issues.

Amazon.com: GRV Ba15s 1156 1141 High Power Car LED Bulb 102-3528 SMD DC 12V Super Bright Cool White Pack of 2: Automotive
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK so i used these 4 watt bulbs (both of them). B to both ground, A to one hot B to the other. They worked GREAT, almost too bright to look at in brake mode. BUT they set a code, and then wouldn't go off of marker mode after that. So, i then tried two 2 watt bulbs (from local parts store, no lights on the "top" of them, just around sides). Kind of dim, not near as easy to see but worked. However, no code and works well. I then swapped a 4 watt in the lower and the dimmer bulb up top. Worked great, no code. So i think if you keep the combined bulb rating under 6 watts or so, you're good on the avoiding the chassis code. I'm going to try and find a 2w bulb with LEDS on the top so it's a bit brighter.

So, we can mark this solved. The easiest way to put a custom light on the back of the scout:

  • Tear down an existing tail light until you have only the 1.5"x1.5" PCB. It will have wires out to turn, license plate, etc. So, it's nice to have all factory plugs, including the big one into the PCB...no need to wack your factory harness, which looks to be part of the main harness.
  • It will have A/B/C out wires. B is ground, A and C are 12v all the time, with more power through them when brakes are on. I didn't get a code just tying them together if you want to run one light, although i only tried for like 30 seconds. YMMV.
  • Pick total tail/light LED bulb ratings of around 5-6 watts max.
  • 1157 style sockets won't work right (one filament for brake one for marker) You'll need 1156 sockets (either one and a big bright bulb, maybe one of the 4w above, or a dual bulb socket like i'm using.) You could probably wire one hot to A and the other to C on a single 1157 socket, but you really can't wire it "as intended" because neither A nor C is switched on/off when using the brake.

OMG those 4watts though. I need them in 1157 for the other cars. Painful to look at. I attached a pic of the bulbs.

 

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been a while, but I'm working on it again. I originally did a 1157 socket and LED lights and split the A and C wires, which would explain why they would only be on very dim when riding. Never got a warning light. I'll be doing a bunch of work pulling the whole thing apart now and redoing it with 1156s. Thanks for your trial and error!
 
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