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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Completed a few installs this weekend, as well as the belt adjustment. My 2016 Chieftain Dark Horse is just about where I want it! Corbin seat arriving Thursday. Pics at the bottom. With the matte black and chrome/steel trim, I might call her Silver Lining.

The decat is GREAT!! Heat on my leg is gone. I love it, thank you American Custom Exhaust!!

I'm happy with the Rineharts as well. I love the look, and the sound is just about right for me. It's not ridiculously loud, but a little louder than stock (probably has as much to do with the decat as the pipes?)

I also love the look of the airbox. Tip top manufacturing on the VooDoo, really well done. People have talked about more noise from it at speed, but I didn't notice that at all. I may try to replace the steel hex bolts with black ones.

Now for the fuel moto tune, or maybe a custom one, to take advantage of the better air flow!

One question - are the Select floorboards supposed to tilt left / right? I tightened them down to german spec (gutentite), and was afraid to go farther. Seems like they are designed to do this.

Notes on the installs:
VooDoo -
  • This was straightforward. Getting the stock bedpan off was the biggest hassle, and it wasn't hard, just takes patience. Getting the forward bolt underneath the tank was the trickiest part. Lift the tank a few inches, and use a 6" ratchet extension with a u-joint.
  • Have clean hands or use gloves with the VooDoo, because the freshly anodized metal is "sticky".
  • I used this breather from Amazon and the original breather hose. It's just stuck in there behind the VooDoo, under the tank. It's a tight fit getting the breather hose back on the crankcase port. A little WD40 on the outside of the hose is what's needed.
Exhaust and Heat Shielding-
  • Lots of patience, WD40, and wiggling needed here to get it all apart. I worked from the rear forward.
  • The antenna needs to be removed to get to the right rear exhaust bolts. There are two washers on the antenna, a big one and a small one, and they both go on the same side of the antenna (I think!.). Pay attention when removing so you can put it back together correctly (or use a parts diagram). My antenna bracket had a lot of corrosion, so I steel wooled and repainted it.
  • My header flange nuts were loose, like many. I suspect they were never retorqued like they should be after a few thousand miles. Go check yours if you haven't yet.
  • I put in new gaskets, and as others have done used these $10 HD gaskets - HD Screamin Eagle Exhaust Gasket 17048-98 , instead of the $50 Indians. They fit great.
  • I unplugged the rear oxygen sensor connector first, and then removed it from the header. For the front header, I removed it without unplugging it. When I replaced it, I pre-twirled? the wire such that it was straight once the sensor was screwed in.
  • I used a dremel to cut off the old heat shield hose clamps. They are the permanent kind. Take your time, cut where there is space between the header and the clamp, wear safety glasses (safety squint just won't do!) and they will pop open nicely when your dremel gets through the clamp.
  • When replacing the 2-into-1 section.I suggest you bolt bolth headers on, but leave the nuts loose, and then connect the front header to the 2-into-1. Put a towel between the rear header and the case so you don't scratch it while you're wiggling it around.
  • I put the heat shielding on the headers before I reattached them. Not sure that was better or worse, but seemed to work okay.
  • Think about where your worm gear clamps are going to land, as you'll need to get a tool on them to tighten / loosen. I had to reorient two of them on the headers, which was do-able, but forethought would have been better.
  • To get the exhaust clamps on the Rinehart slip-ons, I stood them on end on several folded towels, lined up the loosened clamp so that the little wedge piece in the clamp was over the lip of the slip-ons, and then gently hammered it on. I used a flathead screwdriver toward the end to get the clamp just past the lip - it fit nicely into the expansion slots on the slip-ons.
  • I didn't tighten any exhaust components down to spec until I got all of them assembled.
  • I put the two large heat shields on last - the 2-into-1 and the left side shield. I checked their fitment before I tightened up the exhaust components
Select Floorboards
  • These are easy. Even with highway bars, there is enough room to get the original bolt out.
  • I have the Kuryakyn under board rear shifter, and the new boards vs stock make it a tight fit. I had to adjust the shift linkage to have enough room to shift both up and down, and it is a small sweet spot. I recommend you learn from my mistake, and do this before your test drive. :)
Belt adjustment
  • I watched some internet videos, and bought this tension gauge from Amazon. I tested it for accuracy on a bathroom scale, and it was plenty accurate for belt tensioning.
  • Getting the right tension with the right rear adjustment nut was easy. Getting the belt aligned properly with the left nut was trickier. I went past the correct spot, and had to loosen to get back to it. The belt didn't seem to want to slide left and right easily when spinning the tire.
  • I suspect my problems were because my belt and rear pulley were dirty. Next time I will clean them in advance, and see if makes a difference.
Pics:
599025


599026


599027


599028
 

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Completed a few installs this weekend, as well as the belt adjustment. My 2016 Chieftain Dark Horse is just about where I want it! Corbin seat arriving Thursday. Pics at the bottom. With the matte black and chrome/steel trim, I might call her Silver Lining.

The decat is GREAT!! Heat on my leg is gone. I love it, thank you American Custom Exhaust!!

I'm happy with the Rineharts as well. I love the look, and the sound is just about right for me. It's not ridiculously loud, but a little louder than stock (probably has as much to do with the decat as the pipes?)

I also love the look of the airbox. Tip top manufacturing on the VooDoo, really well done. People have talked about more noise from it at speed, but I didn't notice that at all. I may try to replace the steel hex bolts with black ones.

Now for the fuel moto tune, or maybe a custom one, to take advantage of the better air flow!

One question - are the Select floorboards supposed to tilt left / right? I tightened them down to german spec (gutentite), and was afraid to go farther. Seems like they are designed to do this.

Notes on the installs:
VooDoo -
  • This was straightforward. Getting the stock bedpan off was the biggest hassle, and it wasn't hard, just takes patience. Getting the forward bolt underneath the tank was the trickiest part. Lift the tank a few inches, and use a 6" ratchet extension with a u-joint.
  • Have clean hands or use gloves with the VooDoo, because the freshly anodized metal is "sticky".
  • I used this breather from Amazon and the original breather hose. It's just stuck in there behind the VooDoo, under the tank. It's a tight fit getting the breather hose back on the crankcase port. A little WD40 on the outside of the hose is what's needed.
Exhaust and Heat Shielding-
  • Lots of patience, WD40, and wiggling needed here to get it all apart. I worked from the rear forward.
  • The antenna needs to be removed to get to the right rear exhaust bolts. There are two washers on the antenna, a big one and a small one, and they both go on the same side of the antenna (I think!.). Pay attention when removing so you can put it back together correctly (or use a parts diagram). My antenna bracket had a lot of corrosion, so I steel wooled and repainted it.
  • My header flange nuts were loose, like many. I suspect they were never retorqued like they should be after a few thousand miles. Go check yours if you haven't yet.
  • I put in new gaskets, and as others have done used these $10 HD gaskets - HD Screamin Eagle Exhaust Gasket 17048-98 , instead of the $50 Indians. They fit great.
  • I unplugged the rear oxygen sensor connector first, and then removed it from the header. For the front header, I removed it without unplugging it. When I replaced it, I pre-twirled? the wire such that it was straight once the sensor was screwed in.
  • I used a dremel to cut off the old heat shield hose clamps. They are the permanent kind. Take your time, cut where there is space between the header and the clamp, wear safety glasses (safety squint just won't do!) and they will pop open nicely when your dremel gets through the clamp.
  • When replacing the 2-into-1 section.I suggest you bolt bolth headers on, but leave the nuts loose, and then connect the front header to the 2-into-1. Put a towel between the rear header and the case so you don't scratch it while you're wiggling it around.
  • I put the heat shielding on the headers before I reattached them. Not sure that was better or worse, but seemed to work okay.
  • Think about where your worm gear clamps are going to land, as you'll need to get a tool on them to tighten / loosen. I had to reorient two of them on the headers, which was do-able, but forethought would have been better.
  • To get the exhaust clamps on the Rinehart slip-ons, I stood them on end on several folded towels, lined up the loosened clamp so that the little wedge piece in the clamp was over the lip of the slip-ons, and then gently hammered it on. I used a flathead screwdriver toward the end to get the clamp just past the lip - it fit nicely into the expansion slots on the slip-ons.
  • I didn't tighten any exhaust components down to spec until I got all of them assembled.
  • I put the two large heat shields on last - the 2-into-1 and the left side shield. I checked their fitment before I tightened up the exhaust components
Select Floorboards
  • These are easy. Even with highway bars, there is enough room to get the original bolt out.
  • I have the Kuryakyn under board rear shifter, and the new boards vs stock make it a tight fit. I had to adjust the shift linkage to have enough room to shift both up and down, and it is a small sweet spot. I recommend you learn from my mistake, and do this before your test drive. :)
Belt adjustment
  • I watched some internet videos, and bought this tension gauge from Amazon. I tested it for accuracy on a bathroom scale, and it was plenty accurate for belt tensioning.
  • Getting the right tension with the right rear adjustment nut was easy. Getting the belt aligned properly with the left nut was trickier. I went past the correct spot, and had to loosen to get back to it. The belt didn't seem to want to slide left and right easily when spinning the tire.
  • I suspect my problems were because my belt and rear pulley were dirty. Next time I will clean them in advance, and see if makes a difference.
Pics:
View attachment 599025

View attachment 599026

View attachment 599027

View attachment 599028
Nice
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks great!! Thanks for the detailed write up. How's the motor run with the mods, but no tune yet?
Runs fine I think. I stalled once in 1st at a stop light, but could have been me.
 

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Runs fine I think. I stalled once in 1st at a stop light, but could have been me.
Definitely done that a few times. The throttle response/tap-in on my stock tune 2017 Chieftain certainly isn't responsive, I generally gently blip the throttle before rolling in/releasing the clutch now.
 

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Completed a few installs this weekend, as well as the belt adjustment. My 2016 Chieftain Dark Horse is just about where I want it! Corbin seat arriving Thursday. Pics at the bottom. With the matte black and chrome/steel trim, I might call her Silver Lining.

The decat is GREAT!! Heat on my leg is gone. I love it, thank you American Custom Exhaust!!

I'm happy with the Rineharts as well. I love the look, and the sound is just about right for me. It's not ridiculously loud, but a little louder than stock (probably has as much to do with the decat as the pipes?)

I also love the look of the airbox. Tip top manufacturing on the VooDoo, really well done. People have talked about more noise from it at speed, but I didn't notice that at all. I may try to replace the steel hex bolts with black ones.

Now for the fuel moto tune, or maybe a custom one, to take advantage of the better air flow!

One question - are the Select floorboards supposed to tilt left / right? I tightened them down to german spec (gutentite), and was afraid to go farther. Seems like they are designed to do this.

Notes on the installs:
VooDoo -
  • This was straightforward. Getting the stock bedpan off was the biggest hassle, and it wasn't hard, just takes patience. Getting the forward bolt underneath the tank was the trickiest part. Lift the tank a few inches, and use a 6" ratchet extension with a u-joint.
  • Have clean hands or use gloves with the VooDoo, because the freshly anodized metal is "sticky".
  • I used this breather from Amazon and the original breather hose. It's just stuck in there behind the VooDoo, under the tank. It's a tight fit getting the breather hose back on the crankcase port. A little WD40 on the outside of the hose is what's needed.
Exhaust and Heat Shielding-
  • Lots of patience, WD40, and wiggling needed here to get it all apart. I worked from the rear forward.
  • The antenna needs to be removed to get to the right rear exhaust bolts. There are two washers on the antenna, a big one and a small one, and they both go on the same side of the antenna (I think!.). Pay attention when removing so you can put it back together correctly (or use a parts diagram). My antenna bracket had a lot of corrosion, so I steel wooled and repainted it.
  • My header flange nuts were loose, like many. I suspect they were never retorqued like they should be after a few thousand miles. Go check yours if you haven't yet.
  • I put in new gaskets, and as others have done used these $10 HD gaskets - HD Screamin Eagle Exhaust Gasket 17048-98 , instead of the $50 Indians. They fit great.
  • I unplugged the rear oxygen sensor connector first, and then removed it from the header. For the front header, I removed it without unplugging it. When I replaced it, I pre-twirled? the wire such that it was straight once the sensor was screwed in.
  • I used a dremel to cut off the old heat shield hose clamps. They are the permanent kind. Take your time, cut where there is space between the header and the clamp, wear safety glasses (safety squint just won't do!) and they will pop open nicely when your dremel gets through the clamp.
  • When replacing the 2-into-1 section.I suggest you bolt bolth headers on, but leave the nuts loose, and then connect the front header to the 2-into-1. Put a towel between the rear header and the case so you don't scratch it while you're wiggling it around.
  • I put the heat shielding on the headers before I reattached them. Not sure that was better or worse, but seemed to work okay.
  • Think about where your worm gear clamps are going to land, as you'll need to get a tool on them to tighten / loosen. I had to reorient two of them on the headers, which was do-able, but forethought would have been better.
  • To get the exhaust clamps on the Rinehart slip-ons, I stood them on end on several folded towels, lined up the loosened clamp so that the little wedge piece in the clamp was over the lip of the slip-ons, and then gently hammered it on. I used a flathead screwdriver toward the end to get the clamp just past the lip - it fit nicely into the expansion slots on the slip-ons.
  • I didn't tighten any exhaust components down to spec until I got all of them assembled.
  • I put the two large heat shields on last - the 2-into-1 and the left side shield. I checked their fitment before I tightened up the exhaust components
Select Floorboards
  • These are easy. Even with highway bars, there is enough room to get the original bolt out.
  • I have the Kuryakyn under board rear shifter, and the new boards vs stock make it a tight fit. I had to adjust the shift linkage to have enough room to shift both up and down, and it is a small sweet spot. I recommend you learn from my mistake, and do this before your test drive. :)
Belt adjustment
  • I watched some internet videos, and bought this tension gauge from Amazon. I tested it for accuracy on a bathroom scale, and it was plenty accurate for belt tensioning.
  • Getting the right tension with the right rear adjustment nut was easy. Getting the belt aligned properly with the left nut was trickier. I went past the correct spot, and had to loosen to get back to it. The belt didn't seem to want to slide left and right easily when spinning the tire.
  • I suspect my problems were because my belt and rear pulley were dirty. Next time I will clean them in advance, and see if makes a difference.
Pics:
View attachment 599025

View attachment 599026

View attachment 599027

View attachment 599028
Awesome look,
 

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Completed a few installs this weekend, as well as the belt adjustment. My 2016 Chieftain Dark Horse is just about where I want it! Corbin seat arriving Thursday. Pics at the bottom. With the matte black and chrome/steel trim, I might call her Silver Lining.

The decat is GREAT!! Heat on my leg is gone. I love it, thank you American Custom Exhaust!!

I'm happy with the Rineharts as well. I love the look, and the sound is just about right for me. It's not ridiculously loud, but a little louder than stock (probably has as much to do with the decat as the pipes?)

I also love the look of the airbox. Tip top manufacturing on the VooDoo, really well done. People have talked about more noise from it at speed, but I didn't notice that at all. I may try to replace the steel hex bolts with black ones.

Now for the fuel moto tune, or maybe a custom one, to take advantage of the better air flow!

One question - are the Select floorboards supposed to tilt left / right? I tightened them down to german spec (gutentite), and was afraid to go farther. Seems like they are designed to do this.

Notes on the installs:
VooDoo -
  • This was straightforward. Getting the stock bedpan off was the biggest hassle, and it wasn't hard, just takes patience. Getting the forward bolt underneath the tank was the trickiest part. Lift the tank a few inches, and use a 6" ratchet extension with a u-joint.
  • Have clean hands or use gloves with the VooDoo, because the freshly anodized metal is "sticky".
  • I used this breather from Amazon and the original breather hose. It's just stuck in there behind the VooDoo, under the tank. It's a tight fit getting the breather hose back on the crankcase port. A little WD40 on the outside of the hose is what's needed.
Exhaust and Heat Shielding-
  • Lots of patience, WD40, and wiggling needed here to get it all apart. I worked from the rear forward.
  • The antenna needs to be removed to get to the right rear exhaust bolts. There are two washers on the antenna, a big one and a small one, and they both go on the same side of the antenna (I think!.). Pay attention when removing so you can put it back together correctly (or use a parts diagram). My antenna bracket had a lot of corrosion, so I steel wooled and repainted it.
  • My header flange nuts were loose, like many. I suspect they were never retorqued like they should be after a few thousand miles. Go check yours if you haven't yet.
  • I put in new gaskets, and as others have done used these $10 HD gaskets - HD Screamin Eagle Exhaust Gasket 17048-98 , instead of the $50 Indians. They fit great.
  • I unplugged the rear oxygen sensor connector first, and then removed it from the header. For the front header, I removed it without unplugging it. When I replaced it, I pre-twirled? the wire such that it was straight once the sensor was screwed in.
  • I used a dremel to cut off the old heat shield hose clamps. They are the permanent kind. Take your time, cut where there is space between the header and the clamp, wear safety glasses (safety squint just won't do!) and they will pop open nicely when your dremel gets through the clamp.
  • When replacing the 2-into-1 section.I suggest you bolt bolth headers on, but leave the nuts loose, and then connect the front header to the 2-into-1. Put a towel between the rear header and the case so you don't scratch it while you're wiggling it around.
  • I put the heat shielding on the headers before I reattached them. Not sure that was better or worse, but seemed to work okay.
  • Think about where your worm gear clamps are going to land, as you'll need to get a tool on them to tighten / loosen. I had to reorient two of them on the headers, which was do-able, but forethought would have been better.
  • To get the exhaust clamps on the Rinehart slip-ons, I stood them on end on several folded towels, lined up the loosened clamp so that the little wedge piece in the clamp was over the lip of the slip-ons, and then gently hammered it on. I used a flathead screwdriver toward the end to get the clamp just past the lip - it fit nicely into the expansion slots on the slip-ons.
  • I didn't tighten any exhaust components down to spec until I got all of them assembled.
  • I put the two large heat shields on last - the 2-into-1 and the left side shield. I checked their fitment before I tightened up the exhaust components
Select Floorboards
  • These are easy. Even with highway bars, there is enough room to get the original bolt out.
  • I have the Kuryakyn under board rear shifter, and the new boards vs stock make it a tight fit. I had to adjust the shift linkage to have enough room to shift both up and down, and it is a small sweet spot. I recommend you learn from my mistake, and do this before your test drive. :)
Belt adjustment
  • I watched some internet videos, and bought this tension gauge from Amazon. I tested it for accuracy on a bathroom scale, and it was plenty accurate for belt tensioning.
  • Getting the right tension with the right rear adjustment nut was easy. Getting the belt aligned properly with the left nut was trickier. I went past the correct spot, and had to loosen to get back to it. The belt didn't seem to want to slide left and right easily when spinning the tire.
  • I suspect my problems were because my belt and rear pulley were dirty. Next time I will clean them in advance, and see if makes a difference.
Pics:
View attachment 599025

View attachment 599026

View attachment 599027

View attachment 599028
Would you happen to have any pics of how the breather tube is done? I’ve got the same Voodoo coming, hopefully waiting for me Tuesday when I get home from work... breather tube is the only part of the instructions that seems unclear to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry, haven't logged in for awhile. I don't have great pics, but honestly, I used the original, swung it around and jammed it up in there under the gas tank. It's finetm
 

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Completed a few installs this weekend, as well as the belt adjustment. My 2016 Chieftain Dark Horse is just about where I want it! Corbin seat arriving Thursday. Pics at the bottom. With the matte black and chrome/steel trim, I might call her Silver Lining.

The decat is GREAT!! Heat on my leg is gone. I love it, thank you American Custom Exhaust!!

I'm happy with the Rineharts as well. I love the look, and the sound is just about right for me. It's not ridiculously loud, but a little louder than stock (probably has as much to do with the decat as the pipes?)

I also love the look of the airbox. Tip top manufacturing on the VooDoo, really well done. People have talked about more noise from it at speed, but I didn't notice that at all. I may try to replace the steel hex bolts with black ones.

Now for the fuel moto tune, or maybe a custom one, to take advantage of the better air flow!

One question - are the Select floorboards supposed to tilt left / right? I tightened them down to german spec (gutentite), and was afraid to go farther. Seems like they are designed to do this.

Notes on the installs:
VooDoo -
  • This was straightforward. Getting the stock bedpan off was the biggest hassle, and it wasn't hard, just takes patience. Getting the forward bolt underneath the tank was the trickiest part. Lift the tank a few inches, and use a 6" ratchet extension with a u-joint.
  • Have clean hands or use gloves with the VooDoo, because the freshly anodized metal is "sticky".
  • I used this breather from Amazon and the original breather hose. It's just stuck in there behind the VooDoo, under the tank. It's a tight fit getting the breather hose back on the crankcase port. A little WD40 on the outside of the hose is what's needed.
Exhaust and Heat Shielding-
  • Lots of patience, WD40, and wiggling needed here to get it all apart. I worked from the rear forward.
  • The antenna needs to be removed to get to the right rear exhaust bolts. There are two washers on the antenna, a big one and a small one, and they both go on the same side of the antenna (I think!.). Pay attention when removing so you can put it back together correctly (or use a parts diagram). My antenna bracket had a lot of corrosion, so I steel wooled and repainted it.
  • My header flange nuts were loose, like many. I suspect they were never retorqued like they should be after a few thousand miles. Go check yours if you haven't yet.
  • I put in new gaskets, and as others have done used these $10 HD gaskets - HD Screamin Eagle Exhaust Gasket 17048-98 , instead of the $50 Indians. They fit great.
  • I unplugged the rear oxygen sensor connector first, and then removed it from the header. For the front header, I removed it without unplugging it. When I replaced it, I pre-twirled? the wire such that it was straight once the sensor was screwed in.
  • I used a dremel to cut off the old heat shield hose clamps. They are the permanent kind. Take your time, cut where there is space between the header and the clamp, wear safety glasses (safety squint just won't do!) and they will pop open nicely when your dremel gets through the clamp.
  • When replacing the 2-into-1 section.I suggest you bolt bolth headers on, but leave the nuts loose, and then connect the front header to the 2-into-1. Put a towel between the rear header and the case so you don't scratch it while you're wiggling it around.
  • I put the heat shielding on the headers before I reattached them. Not sure that was better or worse, but seemed to work okay.
  • Think about where your worm gear clamps are going to land, as you'll need to get a tool on them to tighten / loosen. I had to reorient two of them on the headers, which was do-able, but forethought would have been better.
  • To get the exhaust clamps on the Rinehart slip-ons, I stood them on end on several folded towels, lined up the loosened clamp so that the little wedge piece in the clamp was over the lip of the slip-ons, and then gently hammered it on. I used a flathead screwdriver toward the end to get the clamp just past the lip - it fit nicely into the expansion slots on the slip-ons.
  • I didn't tighten any exhaust components down to spec until I got all of them assembled.
  • I put the two large heat shields on last - the 2-into-1 and the left side shield. I checked their fitment before I tightened up the exhaust components
Select Floorboards
  • These are easy. Even with highway bars, there is enough room to get the original bolt out.
  • I have the Kuryakyn under board rear shifter, and the new boards vs stock make it a tight fit. I had to adjust the shift linkage to have enough room to shift both up and down, and it is a small sweet spot. I recommend you learn from my mistake, and do this before your test drive. :)
Belt adjustment
  • I watched some internet videos, and bought this tension gauge from Amazon. I tested it for accuracy on a bathroom scale, and it was plenty accurate for belt tensioning.
  • Getting the right tension with the right rear adjustment nut was easy. Getting the belt aligned properly with the left nut was trickier. I went past the correct spot, and had to loosen to get back to it. The belt didn't seem to want to slide left and right easily when spinning the tire.
  • I suspect my problems were because my belt and rear pulley were dirty. Next time I will clean them in advance, and see if makes a difference.
Pics:
View attachment 599025

View attachment 599026

View attachment 599027

View attachment 599028
Looks great! I also did the Voodoo air intake, decatted the head, and am running Indian stage 1 slip-ons. A tune from Fuel Moto definitely improved the performance of the bike. Since you like the Voodoo air cleaner, check out the Audette Cam Cover. Renegade - Cam Cover - Black | Audette Motorcycle C
 

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