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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
as the title states. it only goes in about halfway. I even tried with a new bolt but same issue persists. is it safe to ride to the mechanic like this? bike is a 19 scout with 32 miles on it
578734
 

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Did you pull all the bolts and make sure they are not different lengths? Also, try threading them in with the foot peg off and see where they bottom. If all seems good, try a thread chaser in the hole and on the bolt to clean up any obstruction or crossed threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah they are both the same length, tried with the foot peg off and it stops the same length. dont have a thread chaser but theres a mechanic a block down the road, think its safe to ride over?
 

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Check the bolt itself to see if there is a ding in the threads, try swapping locations
 

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You’re probably safe going one block away with some of the threads going into the hole.

Could just be thread lock material jamming it up, as long as you’re not cross threading the bolt at all.

I’ve had mine off a few times and I remember a similar situation where it seemed like the bolt wanted to stop turning.

Fear of cross threading can stop you, but if it’s threading in several threads (obviously the more the better!) easily to begin with it’s probably not doing that.
You just don’t want to get a few threads going in there and crank on it with all your strength.
 

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Here’s another thought. Maybe use something like brake cleaner on the bolt and hole then a light oil, retry to thread it in.
If it goes in OK after that, remove the bolt and use brake cleaner on it again. And finally mount the bolt in with blue Loctite or similar applied to it.

Anyone think that would be OK?
 

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yeah they are both the same length, tried with the foot peg off and it stops the same length. dont have a thread chaser but theres a mechanic a block down the road, think its safe to ride over?
Riding should be ok, just put as little weight or pressure as possible on the peg.
 

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as the title states. it only goes in about halfway. I even tried with a new bolt but same issue persists. is it safe to ride to the mechanic like this? bike is a 19 scout with 32 miles on it View attachment 578734
Ya gotta float the assembly. Start all the bolts with fingers. So the crash bars are wobbly loose. All 3 bolts on one side are started loose, next,, same, same on the other side. I had to do the same thing.. with the ones I bought. Once all the bolts are started,,, tightening is a breeze.. hope that helps.
 

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Ya gotta float the assembly. Start all the bolts with fingers. So the crash bars are wobbly loose. All 3 bolts on one side are started loose, next,, same, same on the other side. I had to do the same thing.. with the ones I bought. Once all the bolts are started,,, tightening is a breeze.. hope that helps.
I would venture to say that this is probably the issue and the screw is binding due to a slight misalignment of the holes. I also suggest a tap and die set be added to your tool set. I've used mine several times working on mine or friends' vehicles. I've bought additional sizes as needed. If a bolt can't be started by hand or feels tight with only a few threads, the hole and bolt get "chased" as a precaution to straighten the threads out. I actually need to get another M8x1.25 tap as I wanted to chase a hole in my Bobber the other day and that particular one was conveniently missing.
 

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as the title states. it only goes in about halfway. I even tried with a new bolt but same issue persists. is it safe to ride to the mechanic like this? bike is a 19 scout with 32 miles on it View attachment 578734
It looks like the bracket is in a bind. Loosen everything to relax it and start over by hand tighten.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Yep, loosen then all up and put them in like a lug nut. A few threads on each one evenly in a pattern until they seat correctly. Once they are all the way down. Snug all of them up in rotation.
 

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Even though we’ve all done it in a bind, using a tap or die to fix a thread can sometimes cross thread it. A chaser will reform the existing thread and clean it up, not cut new. Also for holes that bottom instead of going through, a chaser will go all the way down where a tapered tap will not.
 

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I've almost never used my tap and die set, only a couple times and that was on my Yamaha (worn out threaded holes from multiple removal/replaced parts). Probably not something everyone is going to try and risk doing wrong.

Hope to hear from OP again. It was said before that an attempt to put the bolts in without the mounting hardware was already done, just holes alone, and that also failed.

Steel bolts in aluminum... got to be careful. However when mine was binding, and I believe it was that same bolt, I was able to continue past the stopping point with added force. I knew it was too far in to be cross-threading.
Just don't crank on the wrench without being sure it is into enough threads easily (not cross-threaded).
Of course, that doesn't mean much if a previous cross-threading makes it appear to go in easily, although wrong on those first threads.
 

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yeah they are both the same length, tried with the foot peg off and it stops the same length. dont have a thread chaser but theres a mechanic a block down the road, think its safe to ride over?
Looks like that bolt isn’t straight going in. You might have crossed threaded it, don’t panic take the unit off double check all threads.
 

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If it will go in a few turns get some washers and put them on the bolt to take up the length that is extra, that way it will still have a clamp load on the piece and ride it, as others have stated putting as little pressure as possible on it to your closest mechanic.

If it is only a block go visit him and offer him an additional $20 to come to you at lunch time or after work if you do not feel comfortable riding it. Take the bolt with you if that is the case so he can see the size etc, it will save him from hauling his whole set of taps and thread chasers.
 
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