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Discussion Starter #1
I took advantage of a brief dry moment this afternoon to get out on the Scout Sixty. I thought I'd see if a few commonly reported problems are there:
  • throttle surge: try as I might, I could not provoke this; having said that, like someone on the regular Scout thread, I had to force myself to let the revs fall to below 1500rpm to check this, because I naturally change down by 2000rpm. I don't like letting any engine lug.
  • front fork dive: for whatever reason, it just doesn't seem to happen on this bike.
  • rear shocks bottoming out: again, they didn't do this; obviously, some bumps are felt, but the more I thought about it the more I realised this is one of the smoothest bikes I've ridden.
  • lack of braking power: I'm not sure if the ABS came on, but I've had to do a few quick stops and the brakes have been brilliant - one today was from speed and the bike felt like it was on rails - even steadier than normal.
So, lots of things seem to be sorted. That's not to say the bike is faultless:
  • the Kendas seem to slip far too easily; I've ordered a pair of Michelin Commander 2s for the 500 mile service on Saturday.
  • the paint seems far too soft: there was a tiny tar spot on the front mudguard that I had to work on gently to remove; in a strong light you can see the rub marks. Likewise, the tank looks scuffed around where my right knee sometimes touches it - it's almost gone through in one spot - after just less than 500 miles!
  • lacking the front cable holder plate of the regular Scout, the ABS cable touches the headlight and has worn the paint through to the metal in one spot.
  • the front mudguard should extend forward another inch or so: it throws road spray up onto the forks, which you want to keep clean to protect the fork seals.
  • the rear mudguard distributes road spray and mud over the electrics under the seat; there's a thread on the regular Scout forum about this, and I'm waiting for some bits to work on a fix.
In spite of the minor disappointments, most of the main issues seem to have been sorted. It's a brilliant bike, with great looks, acceleration, handling, fuel economy, and both the engine and the ride are incredibly smooth.
 

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thanks for your progress report Graham. Am particularly pleased you have no hint of throttle surge, which seems the most insidious fault reported by others.

what weight are you, and what rear shock setting are you running on?

good luck with the new tyres, I'm sure they will be a great improvement!
 

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Hi Graham,

With the front brake on and pushing down on the handle bars how much travel do you get? ( plastic tie around the fork sitting just above the seal, then measure afterwards.)
Alpal
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for your progress report Graham. Am particularly pleased you have no hint of throttle surge, which seems the most insidious fault reported by others.

what weight are you, and what rear shock setting are you running on?

good luck with the new tyres, I'm sure they will be a great improvement!
I haven't adjusted the shocks so they're on their original setting. I'm 12.5 stone/175lb/80kg.
 

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I haven't adjusted the shocks so they're on their original setting. I'm 12.5 stone/175lb/80kg.
Measure the distance between centres of your rear shock mounting bolts. You need to be sitting on the bike so just lay on your seat and take the measurement that way if you don't have a helper to do it for you.
Alpal.

PS standard setting is 282 mm. See page 68-69 of your handbook.
Alpal
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Graham,

With the front brake on and pushing down on the handle bars how much travel do you get? ( plastic tie around the fork sitting just above the seal, then measure afterwards.)
Alpal
From stationary I got 2.5"/6.3cm. With a small run-up I got that to 3"/7.6cm. (thanks for saving me time by reminding me of a simple way of measuring that!)
 

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From stationary I got 2.5"/6.3cm. With a small run-up I got that to 3"/7.6cm. (thanks for saving me time by reminding me of a simple way of measuring that!)
It was a simple test to see if the 60's were different from the standard 69's. And they are. Before I fitted the Ikon front springs the front end wallowed in corners and under braking. Doing that test from stationary I got almost 4" (100mm) but after the Ikon's were fitted it was only roughly 50 mm. That leads me to suspect that improvements have been made to the 60's front suspension at least.
Alpal.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Measure the distance between centres of your rear shock mounting bolts. You need to be sitting on the bike so just lay on your seat and take the measurement that way if you don't have a helper to do it for you.
Alpal.

PS standard setting is 282 mm. See page 68-69 of your handbook.
Alpal
I'll try and remember to do that at the next opportunity.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
One more apparent improvement on the Scout 60 is the side stand. Having read the reports on the forum from the original Scout, I've always checked that the stand is fully forward when parking; however, it's never even looked as though it's unstable, so I'm guessing that the modification which the first owners did must have been done by the manufacturer on this model. It looks as though it goes forward far enough to avoid problems.
 

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One more apparent improvement on the Scout 60 is the side stand. Having read the reports on the forum from the original Scout, I've always checked that the stand is fully forward when parking; however, it's never even looked as though it's unstable, so I'm guessing that the modification which the first owners did must have been done my the manufacturer on this model. It looks as though it goes forward far enough to avoid problems.
Check out the thread kickstand on the Scout. There are before and after pics there that will help tell you if your stand is OK or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Check out the thread kickstand on the Scout. There are before and after pics there that will help tell you if your stand is OK or not.
Checked those pictures and, yes, my kickstand lands on the ground in the same place as the modified one, i.e. roughly inline with the gear change adjuster nut. So it's far enough forward to hold the bike steady. That said, I'll still double check it every time I park!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Measure the distance between centres of your rear shock mounting bolts. You need to be sitting on the bike so just lay on your seat and take the measurement that way if you don't have a helper to do it for you.
Alpal.

PS standard setting is 282 mm. See page 68-69 of your handbook.
Alpal
Got it. When I'm on the bike the distance is about 288. That's near enough, especially as I'll be adding some luggage etc. soon.
 

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Got it. When I'm on the bike the distance is about 288. That's near enough, especially as I'll be adding some luggage etc. soon.
Sweet, Big Brother ( or Sister ) must be listening, or reading this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Graham, I'm thinking of the paint issues - remind me, what colour did you get?
Red. I like red. My previous two bikes were red and their finish was very durable (both Guzzis). However, I know some cars in the past have had problems with red fading or being too soft, and so I guess I shouldn't be surprised that Indian haven't got the red finish sorted yet. I don't know if the other colours are better, but I'd guess the black might be.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
... I guess I shouldn't be surprised that Indian haven't got the red finish sorted yet. I don't know if the other colours are better, but I'd guess the black might be.
Having said that, the way the black paint on my headlight has worn though where the ABS cable touches it suggests even the black isn't as durable as it should be.
 
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