Never heard of that. Seems counter intuitive.

 

To me, too. Maybe it's a British thing but they're very specific about it. So, with the Scout you always leave it in the Stop/Off position? (Like I used to do when I had a Harley).

 

Yes, "OFF".
Although sometimes it might get bumped into the "ON" position when wrangled into the garage. I never felt a concern about it before because the key switch is always "OFF".

 

Thanks. Much appreciated.

 

Good question. The early Scouts had an issue with rolling forward and folding the kickstand so some riders would stop in gear, hit the stop button, put down the kickstand, roll the bike against the gear pressure and turn off the key. If you were to stop, go to neutral, turn off the key, you could forget to place the bike back in gear and the bike could roll away.

The 2015 owners manual says 1. When fully stopped, shift into neutral. 2. Move the engine stop/run switch to the STOP position. 3. Turn the ignition switch off. Remove the ignition key.

One of the problems of shifting to neutral and turning off the key is that many riders miss getting into neutral and release the clutch with the bike running and in gear.

It looks like some Triumph riders may have been turning off the STOP switch and not the ignition switch. One thing about turning off the STOP switch is that you cannot inadvertently hit the start button by mistake and have the bike start before you are ready.

 

Good question. The early Scouts had an issue with rolling forward and folding the kickstand so some riders would stop in gear, hit the stop button, put down the kickstand, roll the bike against the gear pressure and turn off the key. If you were to stop, go to neutral, turn off the key, you could forget to place the bike back in gear and the bike could roll away.

The 2015 owners manual says 1. When fully stopped, shift into neutral. 2. Move the engine stop/run switch to the STOP position. 3. Turn the ignition switch off. Remove the ignition key.

One of the problems of shifting to neutral and turning off the key is that many riders miss getting into neutral and release the clutch with the bike running and in gear.

It looks like some Triumph riders may have been turning off the STOP switch and not the ignition switch. One thing about turning off the STOP switch is that you cannot inadvertently hit the start button by mistake and have the bike start before you are ready.

This works for me no issues after 10K+ miles:

When fully stopped and clutch engaged

1. Leave in gear.
2. Move the engine stop/run switch to the STOP position.
3. Release clutch, roll bike forward slightly.
4. Flip down kick stand.
5. Turn the ignition switch off.
6. Remove the ignition key.
7. Get off bike.

 

I read about that rolling forward issue and it's one reason i always park in gear and slightly uphill with front wheel if possible. Frankly, I sometimes start it that way since I always am on the clutch anyway to start it.

With the Triumph you have to be in neutral with kickstand up to start. With stopping they only want the stop/off position to be used in emergencies and to always use the key. But why leaving it in the stop/off position doesn't shut down all the electrical components and
can drain the battery is a mystery.
Must have something to do with being British and doing things backwards like riding on the "wrong" side of the road

 

The on/off kill switch should be the standard and is just good practice in shutting off any bike.
Here's a couple reasons, it's right there near your right thumb for ease of shutting it down.
I always use it on any bike, muscle memory of doing it this way may save your hide or your bike someday.
Moving across the bike in gear can cause a stall or having the bike shoot out from under you.
I am sure everyone has seen someone do that.
Doing the same thing every time is just a good checklist, rather starting a pre check or shutdown.
I have had a very good mechanic state it's easier on the electric system using the kill also, seems reasonable, but can't quantify it.
When I was younger racing dirt bikes that is all you had so I got pretty used to it before I ever thought of having a street steed.

 

This was a big debate with the Triumph Daytona 675 guys too. General consensus, which I agreed with, was to use the key to shut down the bike. This was an easy decision because even if you're with the crowd who prefers keeping your bike in gear, you could still do this easily on a Daytona with your hand on the clutch.

The problem with the Scout is the key is on the clutch side, so if you don't use the kill switch, the bike needs to be moved to Neutral first. I chose to adapt my parking style rather than modify my reasoning for not cutting power to the bike and it's muscle memory at this point, although I was on a steep hill one time where I was in a bit of a pickle on how to keep it in 1st and shut down.

Any-who, the manual advises riders to put the bike in Neutral, turn kill-switch to off, and turn off the ignition key. I'm no techy, so I'm not positive any damage can be done using the kill-switch, but I'm hesitant to just abruptly cut power to a computer. The kill-switch cuts power at the battery, which effects way more than just your start-up systems.

 

Any-who, the manual advises riders to put the bike in Neutral, turn kill-switch to off, and turn off the ignition key. I'm no techy, so I'm not positive any damage can be done using the kill-switch, but I'm hesitant to just abruptly cut power to a computer. The kill-switch cuts power at the battery, which effects way more than just your start-up systems.

I do not believe you will do any damage with the stop/run switch. Actually the kill switch does not cut power at the battery. If you notice on starting if you turn on the key and then the stop/run you will hear the fuel pump power up when the switch is switched to run. So, on shut down the engine run electrics are turned off. Battery power is still on. The ECU takes a bit longer to power down after the ignition switch is turned off. This you can see if you connect a PVCX. When you turn off the key the CX stays powered up for a short time until the ECU powers down.
It seems as though some of the bikes with kickstand switches use the key only thought. One reason is that rolling to a stop and dropping the kickstand does the same as turning off the stop/run switch. You can drop the kickstand, the engine stops and you turn off the key. With the Scout still running, as was commented, reaching across to turn off the key is a recipe for disaster.
The dirt bike guys only had a stop/run due to no electrics to run down.

 

Just my 2c..... 45 years of riding. The only time I use the kill switch is when I park on a hill and want to leave it in gear. I pull it where I want, leave it in gear and hit the switch. Just my way and after so long don't think I could change now. Either way I think is fine.

 

It's simple logic. Main -key on 1st, ignition switch on 2nd, starter button 3rd. Why would you argue with this?

 

STOP/OFF position as it doesn't shut off all the electrical components and can slowly drain the battery

Make sure to use a triple charger and then no worry. Myself, do not use the kill switch unless I was to have dumped the bike.

 

The manual says to turn the bike off, use the kill switch and then turn the key off.

 

I never use the kill switch unless parking in gear. Stop bike, put in neutral, place on side stand, turn key or hit power button.

 

I always park in 1st gear. Never in neutral. Always use the kill switch. I’m surprised the manual has you park it in neutral as it can roll that way. When I read it in the manual after I bought the bike I thought it was really dumb and wasn’t sure who wrote it that way or why they recommend to park like that. You wouldn’t leave any other manual vehicle in neutral when you park it.

I also always start in first with the clutch pulled in. Not sure if that makes any difference. Been doing it on my Honda since mile 1 and it’s 14k miles in now. Same with the Scout and it’s 4k miles in now. No issues.

 

I never use the kill switch unless an emergency should arise, like going down. Way back in the day only used a kill switch on dirt bikes. Not using it is Just habit ( like for over 48 yrs, 30 bikes later). Keyed switch works just fine.Just my 2 cents.

 

I always use the kill switch on every bike I've ever owned. That way you don't have to take your hands off the handlebars while the engine is still running. The first time you think the bike is in neutral and you release the clutch to turn off the key you'll wish you had too

 

Why not use another switch made for safety? Manual refers to it as an engine stop/run switch. I don’t think the term kill switch is used much anymore because it’s not longer just a kill switch.

 

When not riding, I've always left my bikes in the STOP/OFF position, not the RUN position. Is that true for my Scout? Seems like a dumb question, but I've just read that on my other bike, a Triumph, they say to leave it in the RUN position and do NOT leave it in the STOP/OFF position as it doesn't shut off all the electrical components and can slowly drain the battery. They only recommend using the STOP/OFF position for emergency shut-off and to shut down the bike only with the ignition key.

Would appreciate any feedback as I don't want to drain the battery when not riding. Thanks.

Leave the button alone, it’s for emergencies. In over forty years of riding I never use it, unless it’s an emergency. Same as rear brakes I only use the rear brakes in snow or rain period plus I always down shift even if I’m in fifth gear and have to quickly go to second or third. I’m pretty sure I’m not alone on this. It’s worked for this long and it’s still working out nicely. Anyway what ever you think is running your internal components the battery can handle it.when it’s off it’s off. You can separate the fob from other components-ie cell phone.

 

When not riding, I've always left my bikes in the STOP/OFF position, not the RUN position. Is that true for my Scout? Seems like a dumb question, but I've just read that on my other bike, a Triumph, they say to leave it in the RUN position and do NOT leave it in the STOP/OFF position as it doesn't shut off all the electrical components and can slowly drain the battery. They only recommend using the STOP/OFF position for emergency shut-off and to shut down the bike only with the ignition key.

Would appreciate any feedback as I don't want to drain the battery when not riding. Thanks.

Leave the button alone, it’s for emergencies. In over forty years of riding I never use it, unless it’s an emergency. Same as rear brakes I only use the rear brakes in snow or rain period plus I always down shift even if I’m in fifth gear and have to quickly go to second or third. I’m pretty sure I’m not alone on this. It’s worked for this long and it’s still working out nicely. Anyway what ever you think is running your internal components the battery can handle it.when it’s off it’s off. You can separate the fob from other components-ie cell phone.

Just my 2c..... 45 years of riding. The only time I use the kill switch is when I park on a hill and want to leave it in gear. I pull it where I want, leave it in gear and hit the switch. Just my way and after so long don't think I could change now. Either way I think is fine.

Same for me too, if the manufacturers never put a kill switch on a bike I wouldn’t care at all.

 

Hate to be the bearer of bad new but, like everything else, motorcycles and motorcycle techniques evolve over time. Just because something has worked for 40 years doesn't mean it's the best or most efficient way.

As for the Engine Run/Stop switch (a.k.a. kill switch), the Scout Owners manual (https://cdn1.polaris.com/globalasse...n/2018/root/owner-resources/scout-scout-sixty-riders-manual-2018.pdf?v=59f8e117) page 25 states:

• Use the engine stop/run switch to turn the engine off quickly. Turn the key off after the engine stops.
• Press the top of the switch (STIO) to interrupt the circuits and stop the engine. The engine should not start or run when the switch is in the STOP position.
• Press the bottom of the switch (RUN) to complete the circuits and allow the engine to start and run.

NOTE The headlights and any accessories plugged into power ports will remain on until the ignition key is turned off.

Then on page 57 it states:
STOPPING THE ENGINE
Before stopping the engine, bring the motorcycle to a complete stop. Shift to neutral or disengage the clutch.

1. When fully stopped, shift into neutral.
2. Move the engine stop/run switch to the STOP position.
3. Turn the ignition switch off. Remove the ignition key.

I'm not saying that you can't use the key to stop the bike, I'm just saying that the people who designed it tell you not to.


As for stopping the bike, it is a proven fact that

1. Using only the rear brake takes the longest distance to stop the bike.
2. Using only the front brake takes massively less distance to stop the bike than using only the back brake..
3. Using both brakes every time is the absolute best way to stop the bike in the shortest distance possible.

Again, you don't have to use the best proven braking method to stop the bike, just realize that if you only use the front brake then you aren't stopping the bike in the most efficient manor it can be. And on a side note, there are times when the difference between the stopping distance between front only and front and rear braking will be the difference between riding your bike home or riding in an ambulance to the hospital. If they only time you use your front and rear brake to stop is in an emergency then you won't build up the necessary skill to do so effectively. That's why you should use both brakes to stop your bike every single time. You never know when you'll need that extra few feet.

And PLEASE, don't take my word for it. Here are several articles from recognized experts. There are a lot more out there as well if you Google it.

Advanced Motorcycle Braking
Stopping your motorcycle properly takes practice - Motorbike Writer
How to stop your motorcycle fast!
Braking on your motorbike
The Do’s and Don’ts of Emergency Braking | RideApart

 

Agree with Goatlocker ... best to make it a natural response through repetitive action so you can respond with quickest reaction in an emergency. This means using the engine kill switch every time so it is automatic when it is essential. It also means using both brakes so that it is automatic when you need to stop in the shortest distance.

 

If you do not use the on/off located right on the handlebars for a reason, you are doing it wrong. Year later still debating something that is right in the manual.

 

This is as good as an oil thread !. Really gettin to be a hornets nest here. Great. Not that I care, but if you think using the bar mounted “kill” switch is some kind of advantage then by all means use it . I see no value, other than another switch to wear out.

 

I get what you’re what saying, but there is really bad advise in here.
It absolutely is to your advantage to use the switch on the handlebars universely in pretty much the same spot on all bikes.
The key is not.
Muscle memory of shutting it off correctly on any bike, everytime can save your hide.

 

I get what you’re what saying, but there is really bad advise in here.
It absolutely is to your advantage to use the switch on the handlebars universely in pretty much the same spot on all bikes.
The key is not.
Muscle memory of shutting it off correctly on any bike, everytime can save your hide.

Since the Scout has a tilt/angle sensor, and it will shut off the engine if you go down, that would be the only reason I would use the kill switch. In what other emergency could you want to kill the engine for ? Wait untill you have a situation where you need to get gone with engine not running, your pumped with adrenaline, you have to turn the keyed switch on (anyway) and fumble for the bar mounted switch ( muscle memory may not work so well under these conditions, unless trained under stress). Think it won’t happen ? What’s worse, if you turn the kill switch off in anticipation of a situation and the last second you need to / or could accelerate out of a situation. Ever been parked and have an out of control vechicle coming at you. The keyed switch is in the same place on my Scout today, just like yesterday. You use it, you remember it. Why have to remember additional steps ?If an additional kill switch is so beneficial, why not put on the other side too ? Personally I think all keyed switches on m/cs should standardized be up between the bars, only because it’s easier, and you can see what position the keys in.

 

I get what you’re what saying, but there is really bad advise in here.
It absolutely is to your advantage to use the switch on the handlebars universely in pretty much the same spot on all bikes.
The key is not.
Muscle memory of shutting it off correctly on any bike, everytime can save your hide.

If bikes did not have angle sensors, I would agree with you.

 

You're placing a lot of confidence in the tilt/angle switch. First, not all bikes have them - but most (all?) will have a kill switch in the same location. Second, there are a number of owners who have found that the tilt switch did not take action because the fall was either slow, on a angled road surface, or held up enough by the engine guards. In these cases, the bike can continue in gear and caused more damage or injury. But if the rider instinctively knew (through routine use) that all he had to do was use his thumb as the bike was about to hit the ground .....

 

You're placing a lot of confidence in the tilt/angle switch. First, not all bikes have them - but most (all?) will have a kill switch in the same location. Second, there are a number of owners who have found that the tilt switch did not take action because the fall was either slow, on a angled road surface, or held up enough by the engine guards. In these cases, the bike can continue in gear and caused more damage or injury. But if the rider instinctively knew (through routine use) that all he had to do was use his thumb as the bike was about to hit the ground .....

Agree, if the sensor did not, or would not shut the engine down, then yes I would use it the kill switch. It’s not like I don’t know it there or how to use it. BTW the Scout has an angle sensor. If interested the location, I’ll check a parts microfiche for location. That way it can be taken loose while the bike is sitting running in the garage to test if it works or not. ( unless it’s inside the ECM).

 

If you do not use the on/off located right on the handlebars for a reason, you are doing it wrong. Year later still debating something that is right in the manual.

I'm wrong then..... Oh well. Oh yeh, I also use my back brake way more than my front.....I'm doomed.

 

If you do not use the on/off located right on the handlebars for a reason, you are doing it wrong. Year later still debating something that is right in the manual.

Manual says oil changes at 10 k miles too. Maybe on a lower power car engine ( I wouldn’t abuse it either, even if it has full synthetic in it) the Scout engine is a high Performance, high RPM engine putting a lot of shear on that oil. But hey, the engineers said to do it that way ( no influence from EPA of course). So knock yourseff out. Looking back at bike keys from40-50 yrs ago, the kill switch was always there by the throttle. When magnetos were used, you did not need anything but a momentary contact switch ( keyed switch was for security, if it had one). This carry over was used for emergency-as was stated in the MANUAL in the early days. If you bought another bike it had a kill switch too. They were used in emergencies like going down.Angle sensors started being used in the late 1980 or 1990s if I remember right. It’s shuts off the fuel pump and ignition. That being covered, an additional step in killing the bikes ignition and fuel pump does nothing, as they are shut down when you turn the key off. But if it makes you feel better, then use it. And if you think engineers are always right ,then look no farther than the Vega.