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Discussion Starter #1
Been through a few issues with my used 16 Roamaster. Had a fob problem and had it replaced and seems to be fine. Abs sensor also had to be replaced.

Now, I have noticed on many occasions when gearing down to first the bike will shut off at low idle. It was happening constantly and I had my buddy remap my dyno jet PCV see if it would solve the problem. Thought it worked and did notice better Performance.

Was out for a long ride today and it happend a couple of times while pulling out. The scariest was gearing down for a light and once I got down to 3rd gear it shut off. WTF!!!!

What could be causing this? I had it at the dealer for thr fob and sensor and they also did a recall for the gear selector. Could that be the problem? Could it be the fuel map? Now I am nervous and don't know what to do

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Been through a few issues with my used 16 Roamaster. Had a fob problem and had it replaced and seems to be fine. Abs sensor also had to be replaced.

Now, I have noticed on many occasions when gearing down to first the bike will shut off at low idle. It was happening constantly and I had my buddy remap my dyno jet PCV see if it would solve the problem. Thought it worked and did notice better Performance.

Was out for a long ride today and it happend a couple of times while pulling out. The scariest was gearing down for a light and once I got down to 3rd gear it shut off. WTF!!!!

What could be causing this? I had it at the dealer for thr fob and sensor and they also did a recall for the gear selector. Could that be the problem? Could it be the fuel map? Now I am nervous and don't know what to do

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How's your air filter intake?

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When it dies, does it restart right up? Do you have to shut it down and then power up to restart? How is the idle, is it rough or smooth? Are you blipping the throttle when it dies?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have to get the bike in neutral as fast as possible (at a light) and it will fire again right away. The idle still seems pretty low however it is around 700-800 which I believe is normal it does jump from time to time. What threw me off today was the bike shutting off in 3rd decel!

I dont know what blipping the throttle means but usually when I let go of the clutch, I try and rev it up a little to prevent this

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Clutch switch is bad

You said you have to shift into N.
Go pop the bike in gear put kick stand pull clutch in and try starting.
No start, bad switch

The metal tab on the switch is thin, they eventually break off

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Your idle speed is right. The reason why I asked about shutting it down and restarting was to eliminate the (auto reset) circuit breakers that your bike has along with its fuses. However, if your bike is starting right back up then this isn't the issue. Shutting off while decelerating is strange. What I meant by "blipping" the throttle is applying some throttle while in neutral or with the clutch pulled in. I occasionally have a habit of blipping the throttle before taking off from a stop. My bike was beginning to have an issue of randomly dying when doing so, but would restart right up. Other than that the bike would run fine. What I found was the clamp to the throttle body adapter for the front cylinder was loose. I tightened it and that took care of the problem. There have been a few posts about these adapters having small cracks in the phenolic base. Just this weekend I went ahead and replaced mine as well as installing new hose clamps. Mine did have a few hairline cracks, but I believe that the primary issue was due to the loose clamp that I tightened about a month ago. You might also look at the kick stand switch as being a problem. If the bike detects that the stand is not up while the bike is in gear and the clutch being out, then this will cause the bike to shut down. Is your kick stand retraction spring holding the kick stand up tight?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Clutch switch is bad

You said you have to shift into N.
Go pop the bike in gear put kick stand pull clutch in and try starting.
No start, bad switch

The metal tab on the switch is thin, they eventually break off

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Lifted the kickstand and put it in first. It was actually difficult to put in first with the bike off. After a few tries rolling it back and forth got it. Then tried to start with the clutch depressed and nothing.

So is this what could be causing stalling when down shifting to lower gears?

What if the metal tab is still there?

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Lifted the kickstand and put it in first. It was actually difficult to put in first with the bike off. After a few tries rolling it back and forth got it. Then tried to start with the clutch depressed and nothing.

So is this what could be causing stalling when down shifting to lower gears?

What if the metal tab is still there?

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Yes that is what causing your stalling issue, sounds stupid, but it is the cause.

Pull the cover off and look. If the tab isn't broken off doesnt meen the switch isn't bad.

I've seen 3 things when they don't start in gear. 1 broken tab, 2 bad switch, 3 broken mounting tabs. There is always a possibility of having bad wiring or computer but not likely.

If you remove clutch switch be careful and cautious it is very easy to break off the mounting tabs off the switch then you have the lovely time of trying to remove them from the housing to mount new switch

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes that is what causing your stalling issue, sounds stupid, but it is the cause.

Pull the cover off and look. If the tab isn't broken off doesnt meen the switch isn't bad.

I've seen 3 things when they don't start in gear. 1 broken tab, 2 bad switch, 3 broken mounting tabs. There is always a possibility of having bad wiring or computer but not likely.

If you remove clutch switch be careful and cautious it is very easy to break off the mounting tabs off the switch then you have the lovely time of trying to remove them from the housing to mount new switch

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Do you know why this tiny switch would cause the stalling? Why are these bike equipped with these?

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Do you know why this tiny switch would cause the stalling? Why are these bike equipped with these?

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When a gear is selected the bike wants to see the clutch pulled, the switch indicates this. This keeps someone from starting the bike in gear without the clutch pulled in. Most all modern motorcycles have this.
 

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Am I missing something?? The OP indicates that his bike is stalling / shutting off when decelerating or taking off. How is this a clutch switch issue? The clutch switch should only come into play during startup, and prevents the bike from starting if its in gear and the clutch is not pulled in. If the bike detects that it is in neutral, then it doesn't matter if the clutch is pulled in or not. But, once again, his issue is that the bike is stalling when in motion or taking off. Now if the kickstand switch is malfunctioning, while the bike is running, and in gear, this would kill the engine.
 

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Been through a few issues with my used 16 Roamaster. Had a fob problem and had it replaced and seems to be fine. Abs sensor also had to be replaced.

Now, I have noticed on many occasions when gearing down to first the bike will shut off at low idle. It was happening constantly and I had my buddy remap my dyno jet PCV see if it would solve the problem. Thought it worked and did notice better Performance.

Was out for a long ride today and it happend a couple of times while pulling out. The scariest was gearing down for a light and once I got down to 3rd gear it shut off. WTF!!!!

What could be causing this? I had it at the dealer for thr fob and sensor and they also did a recall for the gear selector. Could that be the problem? Could it be the fuel map? Now I am nervous and don't know what to do

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
I had the same issue on my 15 RM. With age the intake gasket boots that mount to the cylinders starts to break down. This will allow air in and effect your air/fuel ratio especially at idle. I changed both of my boots out and applied a little bit of sealer to the face of the boot where is mounts to the cylinder flange. No more stalling at idle with downshifting. Hope this helps, Dean
 

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I had the same issue on my 15 RM. With age the intake gasket boots that mount to the cylinders starts to break down. This will allow air in and effect your air/fuel ratio especially at idle. I changed both of my boots out and applied a little bit of sealer to the face of the boot where is mounts to the cylinder flange. No more stalling at idle with downshifting. Hope this helps, Dean

Bingo, I think this is it
 

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Everyone has an answer but you said your buddy retuned with PVC. I recently tried a couple different tunes with fuelmoto and one had it shut down once and required me to give it gas to to take off or it would die, once running ok. I tried a different tune and it would start moving with little throttle and no longer almost dies when I downshift to a stop. If nothing else works for you try a different tune, made a big difference with mine.
 

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Everyone has an answer but you said your buddy retuned with PVC. I recently tried a couple different tunes with fuelmoto and one had it shut down once and required me to give it gas to to take off or it would die, once running ok. I tried a different tune and it would start moving with little throttle and no longer almost dies when I downshift to a stop. If nothing else works for you try a different tune, made a big difference with mine.

It was happening before he got his tune modified. And he does not have a PV3 or PVCX. It is a Power Commander 5
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So, I purchased and replaced the clutch switch under the clutch housing. I was able to start the bike in gear immediately.

Therefore, when I bought a (supposed to be new) clutch housing off ebay to replace my damaged one, it obviously had a faulty switch in it.

I took the bike for a test ride thereafter and was not able to replicate the stalling Issue. To be 100% sure, I'd like to have the bike out for the whole day.

If by chance it occurs again will be sure to update but looks like the problem is solved at this point.

Thanks for all the insight and feedback!



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