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Discussion Starter #1
Will the clutch cable metal collar at the lever end slide through the plastic eyelet that's screwed inside the nacelle/triple clamp area?

Hard to get a pic of this so I hope y'all know what I'm referring to.

Replacing the clutch cable on my 16 CDH. OEM one broke after 11k.

Taking my time on the replacement job after reading up on it here. Took the floorboard off tonight...ha.
 

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I just remove that eyelet along with the old cables. Just the plastic anchor... Not the wire eyelet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just remove that eyelet along with the old cables. Just the plastic anchor... Not the wire eyelet.
How did you remove the eyelet? Tap it out from the back side? Not sure if I can get my hand up in there to unscrew it.

Did you take the nacelle apart to get at it? Rather not if I don't have to...
 

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Will the clutch cable metal collar at the lever end slide through the plastic eyelet that's screwed inside the nacelle/triple clamp area?

Hard to get a pic of this so I hope y'all know what I'm referring to.

Replacing the clutch cable on my 16 CDH. OEM one broke after 11k.

Taking my time on the replacement job after reading up on it here. Took the floorboard off tonight...ha.

It should, mine did.
 

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How did you remove the eyelet? Tap it out from the back side? Not sure if I can get my hand up in there to unscrew it.

Did you take the nacelle apart to get at it? Rather not if I don't have to...
If you want to save it, it is sometimes possible with a plastic body moulding tool, it has a fork to fit behind the business end of the eyelet. They do not unscrew, they are pressed in and simply pull back out, although sometimes they break off in the process. If you are not saving it, you can simply pull it out. Long-neck needle-nose pliers can be handy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Soooo close to being done replacing the cable...stuck again and need some advice.

Got the new OEM cable routed correctly (as the original was) and both cable barrel ends are seated. Problem is the cable is too tight that I can't seat the release arm cable metal housing into the primary cover boss. I tried loosening the cable adjustor barrel all the way but no joy.

Of course if I pull the cable barrel from the release arm, then I can easily seat the housing into the boss but then can't thread the cable barrel into the release arm.

Thoughts?
 

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When I changed my cable,I first made sure it was snaked thru everything that it needed to be snaked thru,following the exact same routing as the original cable followed.Then,I connected the cable to the arm on the transmission end first.Then ,using the adjustment piece in the cable,I screwed it in all he way so as to make the cable as long as possible.Then I took the clutch lever off the handle bar and placed the other end of the cable into it.I then put the handle bar clutch lever back in place on the handle bars,and adjusted the free play from there..Does that help ya out any??? Dave!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good idea, Dave. Decided to pause for today, solicit ideas, and try again in the am. Will give that a go first thing. Hope I don't loose the clutch level retaining clip.

If this is that tight with the cable as long as it could be just to install it, I'm wondering how much free play I'll be able to get.
 

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Yep, +1
connect lower end of cable and settle everything into place, then work the slack to the top and into the hand lever. I think that can normally be done without pulling the lever off its perch. You will loosen it from the bars though to make enough slack.
 

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Good idea, Dave. Decided to pause for today, solicit ideas, and try again in the am. Will give that a go first thing. Hope I don't loose the clutch level retaining clip.

If this is that tight with the cable as long as it could be just to install it, I'm wondering how much free play I'll be able to get.
Mine was also tight, and just like yours, there was NO adjustment left after completing the installation cause the cable was as long as it could be,but it was still ok cause there was just enough free play in the lever.So,as the clutch wears,you'll still be able to adjust it to increase the free play which I suspect is probably the way Indian designed it.Dave!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Mine was also tight, and just like yours, there was NO adjustment left after completing the installation cause the cable was as long as it could be,but it was still ok cause there was just enough free play in the lever.So,as the clutch wears,you'll still be able to adjust it to increase the free play which I suspect is probably the way Indian designed it.Dave!!!
Ha, ok then. Was thinking I got the one cable in a thousand that slipped through QC. Will report back tomorrow. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yep, +1
connect lower end of cable and settle everything into place, then work the slack to the top and into the hand lever. I think that can normally be done without pulling the lever off its perch. You will loosen it from the bars though to make enough slack.
That worked. Thanks dieselgman and Dave. Couldn't done it without you two.

Back on the road again. Here are my final thoughts:

- Heck of a job. Manual doesn't give you a real sense of it...the folks on the forum here do.
- Speaking of the manual, here are a few disconnects (for me)...
-- Needed to open the nacelle to route the cable through. String didn't work for me.
-- As mentioned just above, had to seat the cable at the primary first and then the lever last.
-- 84 ft/lbs of torque per manual on the side stand bumper bolt was too much. Snapped that bolt head right off.

All in all, I'd do it again but hope I don't have to. Time to buy a save-ur-ride emergency cable. Speed shifting 10 miles on the way home through downtown was not fun.
 

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That worked. Thanks dieselgman and Dave. Couldn't done it without you two.

Back on the road again. Here are my final thoughts:

- Heck of a job. Manual doesn't give you a real sense of it...the folks on the forum here do.
- Speaking of the manual, here are a few disconnects (for me)...
-- Needed to open the nacelle to route the cable through. String didn't work for me.
-- As mentioned just above, had to seat the cable at the primary first and then the lever last.
-- 84 ft/lbs of torque per manual on the side stand bumper bolt was too much. Snapped that bolt head right off.

All in all, I'd do it again but hope I don't have to. Time to buy a save-ur-ride emergency cable. Speed shifting 10 miles on the way home through downtown was not fun.

The manual calls for 84 inch pounds not foot pounds.
 

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I have noted that a lot of manuals are written for the tech and the engineer... their language, their mindset and progression of thought , their assumptions about what is blatantly obvious and needn't be mentioned. That is often a FAIL when it comes to the layman trying to get the job done.
I recall a series of workshop books "For the Complete Idiot". The first one was for Volkswagen repair... very thorough and just plain non-technical talk. To me that is incrediably imprecise and sloppy, to the average joe, helpful and useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You're right about that dieselgman. I need the complete idiot Indian manual.

I need to remember the manuals are only guides and not to turn off my common sense. Should've realized 84 ft lbs was waaaayyyy too tight for that bolt. Oh well, guess I get to practice my snapped bolt extraction skills.
 

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You're right about that dieselgman. I need the complete idiot Indian manual. .

When I first got into the repair business at the ripe old age of 8 years old,that's what my old man used to tell me! He said [quote:,You need an Idiot manual; unquote] Never could figure out what he meant by it though???:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes: And that was 64 years ago,and I still don't get it??:eek::D:D:D
 
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