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Question on how the belt adjustment adjusters work...

4K views 46 replies 12 participants last post by  DMS Canada 
@virginiaJim, sorry for the laborious response, but it’s impossible to discuss belt alignment with brevity. Yes, the adjusters are the same length (L and R both have the same part #). Adjusting an IM belt can be tedious, but gets easier each time you do it 😂🤣. IM could have certainly come up with a better system, that’s for sure. Don’t worry about getting the belt to stay in the center, that’ll only happen once in a blue moon.

It’s not uncommon for the belt to move from side to side as the belt wears. How finicky is the adjustment procedure? I spend a couple days determined to defeat the alignment process and get the belt to ride in the center. I’d make a micro adjustment, go for a ride, then come back and make another tweak. The belt was riding on the right side of the rear pulley and I moved the left adjuster about 1/64“. That was enough for the belt to move to the inside of the pulley. After a few days of riding, it was back on the right. 10k miles later, it’s back on the left. Lastly, the belt needs to be at room temperature before it’s adjusted. This is one problem when riding your bike to a dealer for an adjustment - it’s still hot and has contracted (Kevlar belts contract when hot, expand when cold).

As @Baron58 mentioned, the oval alignment indicators on the left and right need to both be oriented in the same direction (in order to accurately use the alignment indicator marks). The “front” of both oval pieces need to be oriented up as far as they’ll go in the recessed area. If you can’t visualize this, it’ll become clear once you start. After getting the belt aligned, I’d mark the adjusters with a bit of paint so you have a starting point the next time. Good luck.
 
All of these tips on the adjusters are great! But I want to understand something here, turning the adjusters inward moves the wheel rearward, correct?
Just remember…turning the adjusters clockwise will move the rear wheel back. But, turning the adjusters counter-clockwise will not move the wheel forward. For instance, if you had to move the left side of the wheel forward, you’d loosen (turn counter-clockwise) the left adjuster and manually push the wheel forward (or hit it with a plastic/rubber mallet). All this may sound convoluted, but when you start the procedure, it’ll become clear.
 
The chirping is an annoyance and I only hear it now when the pulley isn't 'loaded' as much and at lower rpms. Is it possible to make micro adjustments as in maybe a quarter turn in on both sides?
On my old Roadmaster, I’d get that sound when the belt was too loose…it would chirp upon letting the clutch out while shifting. The belt will tighten considerably with very small adjustments. I never turn the adjusters more than about 1/8th of a turn at a time. If you over-tighten, you‘ve got to start over, which I found to be a PITA. If the belt needs tightening & you‘re happy with the rear wheel alignment, tighten the belt using the right adjuster and keep up with how much you turned the right adjuster (i.e., 1/4 of a turn) and just make the same turn on the left side.
 
I'm going to work on mine today. I'm going to loosen the axle nut and then snug it up. Once that nut is loosened, does the belt pull the rear tire forward toward the engine or as this is tightening, I don't have to worry about that?
I think I understand what you're asking - when you loosen the axle nut will the belt tension pull the rear wheel forward? The answer is no. The two adjusters are applying rearward pressure to the axle, so it cannot slide forward. I would mark (with paint, a Sharpie, etc) the adjuster location on the L & R before starting. That way if things get screwed up/out of whack and you need to start over, you’ve got the original locations marked. After adjustment is completed, I’d mark the new locations.

Also, after the belt tension is set and the wheel aligned, the axle nut is only torqued at a low setting (15 ft/lbs if I recall). You’ve now got to torque the axle nut to its final torque (I think that’s 65 ft/lbs). I’ve found it’s best to tighten the axle nut slowly to ensure you don’t move the right adjuster when tightening the nut.
 
@virginiaJim you are checking the belt tension with a 10 lb. gauge & wheel off the floor, correct? If you’ve tightened the belt 3/8 of a turn, it was really loose. I don’t think I’ve ever had to make an adjustment over 1/4 turn.
 
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