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Discussion Starter #1
So with my new intake and my Power Commander V installed I have been tearing up streets and bringing Harley riders to their knees even faster.

However, the other day while riding, I started to scroll through my menu and all the sudden I saw "Ck Eng" pop up between my temperature and odometer readings but my actual check engine light that would light up orange stayed off. I stopped for gas and shut the bike off, and turned it back on and the code was gone (Learned later that it only holds the code for one ignition cycle). Rode a few miles but once again it popped up but the check engine light was absent. When I got to my destination I popped my seat off and jimmied and tightened all wires and connections. That seemed to work for a short time.

It came back again yesterday, but this time the engine light stayed illuminated the entire time, though as always the engine was running perfectly.

Finally I learned how to get it to show me the code: 0-52021-5, O2 Sensor Heater (rear) (post), Driver Circuit Open/Grounded. I double and triple checked my two O2 sensors and their optimizers, even switched the optimizers to see if that was potentally the issue and see if it would switch codes accordingly. But it has now disappeared once again.

Any advice? I know its not really a true concern, since the O2 sensors and heaters aren't even being used anymore because of the PCV but it's down right annoying. And though I seemed to fix the issue, for now at least, I don't actually know the root cause of it.

Thanks!
 

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I have the PCv installed on my 2015 Chieftain, have not had that issue, so, sorry, I am of no help to you.


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Send an email to Power Commander about your issue.
I agree here.
But if I were to take a swing at it
Can I assume that you did not dyno tune?
If I assume correct, and you are "seat of the pants" tuning you could simply have a perimeter to rich/lean and its being data logged on factory software, setting off the code.
If it was dyno mapped, take it back to tuner have him check his work.

Edit:
Ok bypassed o2s.
Then I would say its in what fools the the factory program into thinging o2 are connected. And first place id go, is where you went.
O2 work on ohms so a shoddy connection will do this.
Next check any wiring you came across on install.
Double check the literature.
Try a different map if there are choices available.
But, since at this time its not doing it, this may all be moot. So we hope!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I gave all around tightening and checking of connections, and it has still yet to come on again. So fingers are crossed that the issue has been resolved and it was just a loose something or other, but it's anyone's best guess as to what that something is.

And @Hatt at this point it is a map that has been tuned to my intake, but not to my exact bike because unfortunately my tuner has been so busy this season. Hopefully I will be able to get in sooner rather than later. It is still definitely running a bit lean, as the temps do rise quickly, but not dangerously. So hopefully once the tune is set we will have a new record on our hands, as well as a cool running bike.
 

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I gave all around tightening and checking of connections, and it has still yet to come on again. So fingers are crossed that the issue has been resolved and it was just a loose something or other, but it's anyone's best guess as to what that something is.

And @Hatt at this point it is a map that has been tuned to my intake, but not to my exact bike because unfortunately my tuner has been so busy this season. Hopefully I will be able to get in sooner rather than later. It is still definitely running a bit lean, as the temps do rise quickly, but not dangerously. So hopefully once the tune is set we will have a new record on our hands, as well as a cool running bike.
Ok, I think you nay have it licked... Keep us posted!
Cheers.
 

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Also if it's O2 preheaters there is a fuse that governs those. It will show error whether O2 sensors are bypassed or not. I belive it's an accessorize fuse. Make sure it's properly contacted and is not failed in any way.
 

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Also, the bypasses have 2 resistors in them. One is to mimic fuel- air ratio back to computer and the other mimics the load placed on the preheater circuit. Contact the provider of the bypass plugs and find out what each should ohm out at. Then with your multi meter check the bypasses.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
@3littleindians Thanks for the advice! I was wondering if there was a particular fuse for the heaters. And the multimeter was the next step if it happens again.
 
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