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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Any one come across this code on their FTR yet? Rode the bike last night and parked it and everything was fine. Took it out this morning and everything was good. Couple hours later come back outside and start it up to take a ride and notice the check engine light on and bike has low power. Tried clearing it with the pv3 with no luck, disconnected the battery with no luck. Any routine to clear Anyone came across this code with their bike before? Bike is under warranty but don’t want to get either dealer near me involved unless absolutely necessary. Not too confident in either one.
595816
 

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I haven't had the issue. Have you done any mods to the handle bars, grips, or anything else that might have damaged the wiring of the throttle? I'd guess that you have an exposed or cut wire in the harness or a damaged accelerator/throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah changed the handlebars in the beginning of may. Had a quick look while I was out there disconnecting the battery but didn’t notice anything during the few seconds I took looking at the wire running up to the throttle. Will definitely take a closer look tomorrow most likely.
 

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I think you need to inspect the actual connection (ensure plug is seated all the way). Even try disconnecting and reconnecting the accelerator. If nothing turns up, try inspecting the harness for tight or broken spots. If you still see nothing, it will probably need something replaced and you probably want the dealer to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
595893

Got everything off the bike that I need to see the wires between the accelerator and the ecm, and don’t notice anything exposed or rubbing. Removed the plug off the ecm and checked Resistance at the wire from the ecm plug to the accelerator plug and got 2 ohms, good
Checked resistance from that wire to ground and got OL. Ok good it’s not shorted to ground, at least from the accelerator to the computer.
Now checking voltages.
I have 5 volts at both supply’s at the connector at pins 1 and 4. I have ground at both return wires pins 2 and 5.
Now here’s where the discrepancy starts.
Signal 1 pin 3 I have 1.04 volts with throttle closed and 4.00 volts with throttle wide open.
Signal 2 pin 6 I have .065 volts with throttle closed and 2.00 volts with throttle wide open.
So I’m assuming (only going on a wiring diagram and a connector end view) Signal 2 should be around the same as signal 1 which makes sense to me since the code is a voltage below normal.
All this to me points to the accelerator being bad.
Am I missing something?
Will likely give it to the dealer seeing the accelerator is $190. Which I guess isn’t that bad. May just buy it and replace myself if they tell me it’ll take more than a couple weeks. Just worried that since I deleted the cat and have a pv3 they’ll try to hassle me about the warranty.
 

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Rather than checking peak voltages watch your meters analog scale as you slowly open then close it, do this on both pots.You don't want to see any sudden changes just smooth increase and decrease.The ECM uses the secondary voltage as a reference and if it sees any discrepancy dumps throttle to idle as a safety and logs a fault.
 

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Accelerator is independent of the cat and PV3. They charge Indian for warranty work, so I don't know why they'd give you a hard time unless the tech is overbooked or lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Accelerator is independent of the cat and PV3. They charge Indian for warranty work, so I don't know why they'd give you a hard time unless the tech is overbooked or lazy.
I’m sure it’ll be fine. I had a 2017 chief dark horse that I wired a garage door opener into the unused switch on the right side switch pack.
Later on in its life my cluster went inop. (Speedometer inop, backlights, everything associated with the cluster).
Found water and corrosion in the connector of the jumper harness that runs to the cluster from under the nacelle (in the connector under the nacelle).

Took it to the dealer near me which is now shut down. Told them I found water and the connector all corroded and I tried to clean it out with some air but it didn’t fix it. They took a cluster out of another bike there to test it checked a few other things while I was there. Was dying to ask them to just try taking the harness from the other bike to test it as it would of been easier than testing the speedometer but I didn’t want to be that guy telling someone how to do their job. (Don’t know if they didn’t believe me about the harness). So I left it there a few days, came back when they said it was ready. Found out they replaced that harness to fix it.

Well after I picked it up they handed the garage door opener to me. Said they couldn’t figure out why the harness went bad but possibly was caused the garage door opener was wired to the bike (It was wired into the harness under the seat at the computer not into that harness). He handed the garage door opener back to me and said it could have potentially “voided the warranty if they mentioned it to Polaris”. And recommended waiting till it was out of warranty to reinstall. I didn’t argue, he wasn’t being an a-hole about it or anything. Nothing to argue about really, was fixed free and under warranty. Didn’t really believe him about a warranty being voided over something like that. So I just went on my way and reinstalled the door opener when I got home.

Just ever since then I always feel like with my luck I’m going to get the guy whose super serious about his job.
Sorry for the long post. Wife’s watching one of her boring shows.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Rather than checking peak voltages watch your meters analog scale as you slowly open then close it, do this on both pots.You don't want to see any sudden changes just smooth increase and decrease.The ECM uses the secondary voltage as a reference and if it sees any discrepancy dumps throttle to idle as a safety and logs a fault.
Yeah you’re right. Likely different voltage range between each pot. I have a digital multimeter and a power probe iv. I think my multimeter might have an analog scale though, never used it if it does. Thanks
 

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There's a rationality fault if the two sensors don't agree. You could try key-on with slightly twisted throttle.

Since there is a rationality detection, I suspect the two circuits are identical.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
There was one instance where the signal was .24 and didn’t move while twisting the throttle. This was right before I called it a day and went inside for the night. I figured I might have had a bad connection where I probed the wire or the accelerator was bad. But stupid me didn’t check to make sure I still had the 5 volt supply. Went back this morning just before I left for work and it was back to .65-2.00. Will try to see if I can get it to go back down to .24 tonight although it may have been a bad reading.
 
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