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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I stopped at my Inlaws and left the bike running thinking it was going to be 5 minutes. dropping off a gift. Well it was running for thirty minutes. California 80 degree day. Yes I should have shut it off. My fault. 2014 chieftain. Got
Back to the bike. Engine light was on. Took off and got to a gas station filled up let it cool. Well when I started it the motor made the worst knocking sound ever. Rode it home and let it cool. Started it the next morning and now it’s pinging like made on the right side. Am I screwed?
 

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Had this while sitting in a traffic jam. It is worse since I have stage 2; pinging already just above idle.
But getting out on the road again and cooling down the pinging goes away. 2015 Vintage with stage 2.
 

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Piston and cylinder kits can be purchased from BBK upgrades at a reasonable price. Hopefully not needed, but if worst case... Then an option. Dismantlers sell good running engines at around 2 to 3 k$.
 

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Don't run the engine anymore until it has been checked out by a professional wrench. A cylinder leakdown test should be the first diagnostic done, because it's the best way of knowing if there is damage to cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings and/or valves. A compression test will also tell the tale, but isn't as defining.
We have seen strong indicators that the valve stem seals in the Thunder Stroke engines aren't very tolerant to excessive heat. If they're cooked, the engine will burn oil.
And, yes, the oil and filter will need to be changed. But that should not be your first concern.
 

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2018 Indian Chieftain (Tanto) Steel Gray
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Don't want to hijack a thread,but on the same subject how much heat can these motors take? I sat in stop and go traffic for about 20 minutes. Will that hurt this motor?
 

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Probably not a question of how long, but what sustained temperature is too high. ”How long” is going to be impacted by ambient temperature, does the bike have a cat, is the lean stock tune still loaded...or has a richer tune been installed, is there a rear cylinder deactivation feature, etc. Not scientific by any means, but as a rule of thumb, I’d say 15 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Start with the cheapest thing and change out that cooked oil.
So I’m not crazy about the indian oil or the victory oil I used to use in my Vision. I switched to Redline years ago. What do you think this motor likes? And thank you for the quick response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Piston and cylinder kits can be purchased from BBK upgrades at a reasonable price. Hopefully not needed, but if worst case... Then an option. Dismantlers sell good running engines at around 2 to 3 k$.
That is the worst case scenario. Smh. Damn simple thing and I completely ignored it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Had this while sitting in a traffic jam. It is worse since I have stage 2; pinging already just above idle.
But getting out on the road again and cooling down the pinging goes away. 2015 Vintage with stage 2. B
Ok I’ll try that after I change the oil. That side of the motor always had a knock. Small one when mot
On the throttle. I reported it
To The dealer and They said keep it on the gas. Lol. I just looked at the service guy with you’re joking look. But it’s been very good too me. I just screwed up
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok I’ll try that after I change the oil. That side of the motor always had a knock. Small one when mot
On the throttle. I reported it
To The dealer and They said keep it on the gas. Lol. I just looked at the service guy with you’re joking look. But it’s been very good too me. I just screwed up
 

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Don't run the engine anymore until it has been checked out by a professional wrench. A cylinder leakdown test should be the first diagnostic done, because it's the best way of knowing if there is damage to cylinder walls, pistons, piston rings and/or valves. A compression test will also tell the tale, but isn't as defining.
We have seen strong indicators that the valve stem seals in the Thunder Stroke engines aren't very tolerant to excessive heat. If they're cooked, the engine will burn oil.
And, yes, the oil and filter will need to be changed. But that should not be your first concern.
Not to hijack the post, but did you once live on Eastern Long Island and own a '99 Road Star?
 

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Well dang! I thought I was bad about leaving an air cooled motor running.

I’m sure I burned out my V-twin Yamaha stator because I was stopping to get pictures of things in the hot sun.
Probably up to 10 minutes on its kickstand. And didn’t help any that I could never get the front cylinder to stop running lean.

I added electronic temperature monitors for the heads and it was between 300 and 400°F.
 

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Don't want to hijack a thread,but on the same subject how much heat can these motors take? I sat in stop and go traffic for about 20 minutes. Will that hurt this motor?
That's a good question that can't be answered with a simple number. An air cooled engine can be started from cold and ran longer because the entire mass of the cylinders and heads has to be brought up to and ultimately past the range of normal operating temperature. Ambient temperature will be a factor, as is humidity, because both have effect on the ability to shed head to the atmosphere. Once the engine is up to typical running temps, it needs airflow over the cooling fins so it doesn't "heat soak".
Without a gauge that reports engine temperature, how do you know when it's getting too hot? If the idle drops down or starts to repeatedly rise and fall the engine may be laboring under excessive heat. A "ratty idle" is an unhappy engine. Time to shut it down! Of course, by that time, if the rider is still in the saddle, the heat rising from the engine will probably be oppressive. If it's overheating, it may be making ugly sounds like pinging, a rattling valve train and possibly even knocking noises.
Sqawhunter honestly reported that he knew he'd overheated the engine, while he had left the bike idling, unattended. Unfortunately, in that situation he was not there to hear the sounds of an engine as it overheats. Obviously, it's always best to shut it down if you're going to walk away, but the gentleman also expected to return to the bike much sooner.
Bottom line... always plan for the worst. If you leave the bike, don't leave it running. If you're stuck in stalled traffic, expect to have to shut it down and restart it when traffic starts moving again. It may be necessary to leave the road and let it cool down on the shoulder or, if possible, in a parking lot. And don't assume that cooler weather is an assurance that it can't overheat. It may be 35 degrees outside, but a stationary air cooled engine will only take a bit longer to overheat.
 

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2018 Indian Chieftain (Tanto) Steel Gray
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One last question for those in the know. Would this be covered under warranty if the bike was still covered?
 

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One last question for those in the know. Would this be covered under warranty if the bike was still covered?
Doubt it. Almost every warranty contract and/or service contract excludes overheating. Many engines have heat tabs that are tell tale when an overheating condition has occurred, nonetheless the obvious physical damage of overheating.

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