Indian Motorcycle Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of MAY's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive got a 2015 RM.....dealer been using whatever they use - I decided to save myself some change and do the oil and filter myself. Few problems.......1. 20W40 Premium synthetic is almost impossible to find on the retail market unless you want to buy from an Indian dealer at sell my car prices. 2.I go on another Indian talk site and have gotten recommendations for 15w40, 20w40, 20w50 even the 15w60 for the little guy.

My question, what is every one using and WHY? Dont just tell me a brand and viscosity, tell me WHY.

Love ya all.......
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
2,733 Posts
Oh yeah ! WHY indeed...
The Scout oil is a "high tech" oil, compared to the 20W-40 semi-synth, in every technical aspect you choose to look at.
Since Polaris has officially sanctioned the use of the Scout oil in, quote " all Indian motorcycle engines", it's the way to go..

In case anyone remains skeptical, here it is - right outta the horses mouth:
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
944 Posts
I use Amsoil 20-50 because I live in the desert of Arizona. It's pretty rare I ride in temps under 40 F.
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
4,158 Posts
Oh yeah ! WHY indeed...
The Scout oil is a "high tech" oil, compared to the 20W-40 semi-synth, in every technical aspect you choose to look at.
Since Polaris has officially sanctioned the use of the Scout oil in, quote " all Indian motorcycle engines", it's the way to go..

In case anyone remains skeptical, here it is - right outta the horses mouth:

Also the fact Poalris authorizes 15W-60 this means you could also run 20W-50 which is very common.
 

·
Founding member
Joined
·
1,505 Posts
I use Mobil 1 because it is available at most auto stores in my area. I have used it for years with no issues and when draining it still looks good.
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
2,733 Posts
I use Mobil 1 because it is available at most auto stores in my area. I have used it for years with no issues and when draining it still looks good.
Well, you gotta specify which Mobil 1.. Only the "Mobil 1 V-Twin" or the "Mobil 1 Racing 4T" are wet clutch safe. ( Our Indians are all wet clutch..) I am not aware of whether most auto stores normally keep these two oils on the shelf, or not..
 

·
Founding member
Joined
·
1,505 Posts
Well, you gotta specify which Mobil 1.. Only the "Mobil 1 V-Twin" or the "Mobil 1 Racing 4T" are wet clutch safe. ( Our Indians are all wet clutch..) I am not aware of whether most auto stores normally keep these two oils on the shelf, or not..
Oh, so you actually thought I might be using Mobil 1 automotive oil ? The O'Reilys here has 3 different motorcycle oils. Lucas, Castrol, and Mobil 1. You can also get a K & N oil filter for the 111 there too.
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
1,727 Posts
There is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much emphasis and concern on oil viscosity and variation from OEM specs. In my professional experience a change in viscosity that MAY NOT be beneficial for the health and life of an engine, especially a big cc v-twin engine would be to use an oil with a LOWER upper viscosity rating, such as dropping from a 40 wt to a 30 wt. One of the protective characteristics of oil is "cushioning" and the lower viscosity oil may not protect as well in that aspect.

The "w" spec is inconsequential whether it's a 10,15 or 20 except in cold temps down into the 40's and below, where clunky shifting may be experienced.

The upper viscosity,same thing, tho I have found increasing oil viscosity can make shifting a bit more difficult due to "oil drag" between clutch plates. Thicker oil, as I found on my dyno WILL reduce power as it takes more power to turn that oil pump to move that thicker oil, and oil drag on other internal engine components add onto that loss.

Back in 2006 I did some back to back dyno testing with 2 different viscosities of Amsoil in my ZX14, the standard recommended 10-40 and 10-30. Thru the entire dyno run there was a noticeable gain of the 30 over the 40, with a maximum of 2 H.P. Out on the road the power improvement showed up in improved throttle response with smoother shifting,

i am on my 4th or 5fth oil change using Klotz 15-60 and have enjoyed the small improvements noticed. I should be receiving today a batch of 10-60 Liqui Moly brand oil to try next time.

I have had the benefit in using all my skoots as guinea pigs along with having a huge number of oils available thru my distributor alone, plus acquiring oil online,at stores and trying OEM oils. Still learning and acquiring data...

BTW...here is the oil viscosity chart Kawasaki has been supplying in the owners manuals for years, and represents the different oil viscosities and ambient temp ranges they can be used in.

RACNRAY
temp range.jpg
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
4,158 Posts
There is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too much emphasis and concern on oil viscosity and variation from OEM specs. In my professional experience a change in viscosity that MAY NOT be beneficial for the health and life of an engine, especially a big cc v-twin engine would be to use an oil with a LOWER upper viscosity rating, such as dropping from a 40 wt to a 30 wt. One of the protective characteristics of oil is "cushioning" and the lower viscosity oil may not protect as well in that aspect.

The "w" spec is inconsequential whether it's a 10,15 or 20 except in cold temps down into the 40's and below, where clunky shifting may be experienced.

The upper viscosity,same thing, tho I have found increasing oil viscosity can make shifting a bit more difficult due to "oil drag" between clutch plates. Thicker oil, as I found on my dyno WILL reduce power as it takes more power to turn that oil pump to move that thicker oil, and oil drag on other internal engine components add onto that loss.

Back in 2006 I did some back to back dyno testing with 2 different viscosities of Amsoil in my ZX14, the standard recommended 10-40 and 10-30. Thru the entire dyno run there was a noticeable gain of the 30 over the 40, with a maximum of 2 H.P. Out on the road the power improvement showed up in improved throttle response with smoother shifting,

i am on my 4th or 5fth oil change using Klotz 15-60 and have enjoyed the small improvements noticed. I should be receiving today a batch of 10-60 Liqui Moly brand oil to try next time.

I have had the benefit in using all my skoots as guinea pigs along with having a huge number of oils available thru my distributor alone, plus acquiring oil online,at stores and trying OEM oils. Still learning and acquiring data...

BTW...here is the oil viscosity chart Kawasaki has been supplying in the owners manuals for years, and represents the different oil viscosities and ambient temp ranges they can be used in.

RACNRAY View attachment 597216
HP and efficiency is why most cars are running 0w-20 these days
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
You have to buy your filter from an Indian dealership...…. why not the oil? Ride the bike...… don't get hung up on options.
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
944 Posts
You have to buy your filter from an Indian dealership...…. why not the oil? Ride the bike...… don't get hung up on options.
You don't have to buy your filter from Indian! Stop drinking the Koolaid. The filter used on TS111 is used all over the place on many different cars and motorcycles. Go here to look at the vehicles that use the same filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
I'll be your huckleberry.... I use Rotella T6 full synthetic 15w-40 and a Fram oil filter.
Why the oil?
  • It's cheap and easily available
  • It's a product targeted at big diesel engines, who's owners have a lot more invested in their engines then I do in mine
  • It's multi-vis, and it's ambient temp range is inclusive of the 20w-40 that's recommended for our bikes
  • It's full synthetic, so it lasts longer
  • It doesn't have the SN plus automotive efficiency additives, so you're not going to get clutch slip
Want to know more about oil without the hype? Read this: Motor Oil Information

Why the filter?
  • It's cheap and easily available
  • I'm not going to argue that there are differences in filter brands. What I will argue is those differences have just about zero impact on the life of your mass produced commercial 4-stroke engine.

I've had a lot of vehicles in my lifetime - cars, trucks, motorcycles, and even an airplane. Never once did my oil or filter choice ever lead to a mechanical issue.

Having said all of that, if paying the extra money for Indian brand or Amsoil or whatever you like makes you sleep better, it's money well spent.
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
1,591 Posts
I can tell you after I switched to the full synthetic 15W40 I have noticed a positive change in the engine quieting down and smoother shifting. Also appears to just run smoother even after a 90 degree day of riding.
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
1,288 Posts
You don't have to buy your filter from Indian! Stop drinking the Koolaid. The filter used on TS111 is used all over the place on many different cars and motorcycles. Go here to look at the vehicles that use the same filter.
Thank you rpsibew110, I stand corrected. I still think people are way more concerned about things around motorcycling and missing the pure enjoyment of riding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
I'll be your huckleberry.... I use Rotella T6 full synthetic 15w-40 and a Fram oil filter.
Why the oil?
  • It's cheap and easily available
  • It's a product targeted at big diesel engines, who's owners have a lot more invested in their engines then I do in mine
  • It's multi-vis, and it's ambient temp range is inclusive of the 20w-40 that's recommended for our bikes
  • It's full synthetic, so it lasts longer
  • It doesn't have the SN plus automotive efficiency additives, so you're not going to get clutch slip
Want to know more about oil without the hype? Read this: Motor Oil Information

Why the filter?
  • It's cheap and easily available
  • I'm not going to argue that there are differences in filter brands. What I will argue is those differences have just about zero impact on the life of your mass produced commercial 4-stroke engine.
I've had a lot of vehicles in my lifetime - cars, trucks, motorcycles, and even an airplane. Never once did my oil or filter choice ever lead to a mechanical issue.

Having said all of that, if paying the extra money for Indian brand or Amsoil or whatever you like makes you sleep better, it's money well spent.
+1. It's tough to find a negative review of Rotella..
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
944 Posts
Thank you rpsibew110, I stand corrected. I still think people are way more concerned about things around motorcycling and missing the pure enjoyment of riding.
I kinda get that in the fact that a bike is a large purchase. Mine actually more than either of my cars. I believe because of the cost it drives people to look and take care of their bikes more than it used to. Although I would rather ride a dirty bike than be home washing it.
 

·
Bronze member
Joined
·
1,727 Posts
I'll be your huckleberry.... I use Rotella T6 full synthetic 15w-40 and a Fram oil filter.
Why the oil?
  • It's cheap and easily available
  • It's a product targeted at big diesel engines, who's owners have a lot more invested in their engines then I do in mine
  • It's multi-vis, and it's ambient temp range is inclusive of the 20w-40 that's recommended for our bikes
  • It's full synthetic, so it lasts longer
  • It doesn't have the SN plus automotive efficiency additives, so you're not going to get clutch slip
Want to know more about oil without the hype? Read this: Motor Oil Information

Why the filter?
  • It's cheap and easily available
  • I'm not going to argue that there are differences in filter brands. What I will argue is those differences have just about zero impact on the life of your mass produced commercial 4-stroke engine.
I've had a lot of vehicles in my lifetime - cars, trucks, motorcycles, and even an airplane. Never once did my oil or filter choice ever lead to a mechanical issue.

Having said all of that, if paying the extra money for Indian brand or Amsoil or whatever you like makes you sleep better, it's money well spent.

The SN category specs do not include any additional additives that may affect wet clutches and the changes over SM are as follows...

  • High temperature deposit protection for pistons
  • Better sludge control
  • Better seal compatibility
  • Aftertreatment compatibility
SM is already an "energy conserving oil" but ONLY in the various multi viscosities of the 20 and 30 weights. The requirement to replace ZDDP with friction modifiers in the 20 and 30 wights is not required in the 40 and above weights of 4 wheel vehicles. An important spec in dealing with an auto/truck/diesel oil NOT specifically labeled for m/c use is a JASO MA rating, which Rotella does. The Klotz I use meets the API SN, JASOMA2 AND the ILSAC GF-4 specs. So an oil can have the more aggressive MA2 rating ALONG with the SN SPEC.

RACNRAY
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
The SN category specs do not include any additional additives that may affect wet clutches and the changes over SM are as follows...

  • High temperature deposit protection for pistons
  • Better sludge control
  • Better seal compatibility
  • Aftertreatment compatibility
SM is already an "energy conserving oil" but ONLY in the various multi viscosities of the 20 and 30 weights. The requirement to replace ZDDP with friction modifiers in the 20 and 30 wights is not required in the 40 and above weights of 4 wheel vehicles. An important spec in dealing with an auto/truck/diesel oil NOT specifically labeled for m/c use is a JASO MA rating, which Rotella does. The Klotz I use meets the API SN, JASOMA2 AND the ILSAC GF-4 specs. So an oil can have the more aggressive MA2 rating ALONG with the SN SPEC.

RACNRAY
Yeah, my mistake on the SN plus. I used to look for the Energy Conserving / Resource Conserving label in the circle diagram (don't use these in your scoot!). Now it says SN plus in that spot on automobile oils, so thought they just updated the nomenclature.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
After becoming an Indian RM owner in March of this year, I too had a lot of questions on the oil. I am using the Amsoil 15W60 and have been pleased. I live in Southwest Florida where your 8am ride is often done in the low 90s (temp and humidity). I have always had concerns about the heat and my air cooled bikes given where I live. What I can tell you is after doing a stage 1 that included a decatted head pipe and PC3 with Craig's tune, the ECM is showing the bike living in the 235-245 range. The highest I have seen is 261 after sitting through a complete light cycle at the end of an hour plus ride.

The biggest difference I have noticed between my Harleys and the RM is how slow the temperature moves up. On my Ultra, I could see a 20-30 degree difference in a short light cycle where the RM moves up much slower and no where near as much. The RM also cools back down very quickly once you're moving where the Harley was very slow to do so. Still, with the high temps I ride in, I want the 15W60 in the bike. I can't tell you if it is helping the bike but it certainly isn't hurting it.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top