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2014 Vintage. Just changed oil @ 4,500 miles. Came out with thick skim of sickly green foam (the color of pond scum).

So, I went through the normal list of culprits:

1. Overfilling. Nope.

2. Water Can't imagine how they would get in there.

3. Overheating. I'm running the bike right now in 70-degree weather and it has an oil cooler. Not sure how long foam stays in suspension, but I just rode it home two miles to do the oil change. Certainly didn't overheat in that period.

4. ??

I'm thinking I might have the oil tested to see if there is anything else in it or the test might give some indication. Where can you get those tests done?
 

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What brand of oil was drained? Was it in there over the winter months? Temp swings can cause old oil in the engine to have condensation in it over the winter. When that moisture gets churned into the oil by running it, it'll come out looking somewhat like that.
 

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Check o-ring on dip stick.Bike kept outside thru the winter?Indian oil?Oil does not look good in drain pan.Only 4500 miles on oil.How did the filter look?Something is definitely wrong some where.
 

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Did you start bike and run for only a few minutes numerous times during winter storage?If so, that explains oil looking as such.
 

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2014 Vintage. Just changed oil @ 4,500 miles. Came out with thick skim of sickly green foam (the color of pond scum).

So, I went through the normal list of culprits:

1. Overfilling. Nope.

2. Water Can't imagine how they would get in there.

3. Overheating. I'm running the bike right now in 70-degree weather and it has an oil cooler. Not sure how long foam stays in suspension, but I just rode it home two miles to do the oil change. Certainly didn't overheat in that period.

4. ??

I'm thinking I might have the oil tested to see if there is anything else in it or the test might give some indication. Where can you get those tests done?
Here is the link to Blackstone Labs which is who I use for oil testing: Blackstone Laboratories – Oil Analysis – Learn What's Going On In Your Engine You can request a free oil test kit right from their website. While you're waiting for the test kit to arrive, you might try calling them and describe what you found when you drained your oil. Of course, they can't give you an accurate diagnosis until they test your oil, but you might get an educated guess from them.
 

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What brand of oil was drained? Was it in there over the winter months? Temp swings can cause old oil in the engine to have condensation in it over the winter. When that moisture gets churned into the oil by running it, it'll come out looking somewhat like that.
Reinie,

Duh, that's probably it. I normally ride all year long, but I was out for several months this winter with a tendon rupture. I guess I lost track of how long the bike sat there. That's probably all it is, but I'll do an oil test just to be sure.
 

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That picture is oil with water in it..........Change the oil and filter and go out for a looooong ride.
Get it real hot. Also, check the engine breather for a kink or blockage, the one in the air cleaner. Try to avoid starting the engine when stored and when you do ride, go for at least 20-30 minutes.
 

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After mine sat for the winter,and I changed the oil for spring,it stunk on first couple of rides.i have an external vent filter,and it was expelling the built up water vapor out the vent.you could tell the smell was oil vapor.its gone now,but took a few rides.think I'll route the vent along the frame to the back wheel somewhere.im sure then I'll hear about it from my better half "what stinks".
 

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In my 17 years of changing oil in Polaris motorcycles, if the oil was warm when you dropped it, it will always look like that. Makes you think that something is wrong, but it's really quite normal. Have over 150K on Vic and Indian engines and unless I dropped it cold (which is very infrequent) it always has that look in the pan. And not to start an argument, but I have always used the Vic and Indian oil.
 

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In the past 50 or so years I've had 1 Honda, 1 Yamaha, 9 Harleys, and now my Vintage (2015). I've never had oil come out like that. Looks to me like a good amount of water/condensation. I'd change the oil & filter then ride it for a couple hundred miles, then change the oil & filter again. And as mentioned, always ride it long enough for the engine to reach full temperature..... that's jus' me ;)
 

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Y
That picture is oil with water in it..........Change the oil and filter and go out for a looooong ride.
Get it real hot. Also, check the engine breather for a kink or blockage, the one in the air cleaner. Try to avoid starting the engine when stored and when you do ride, go for at least 20-30 minutes.
es that is water....or Italian salad dressing.
 

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In my 17 years of changing oil in Polaris motorcycles, if the oil was warm when you dropped it, it will always look like that. Makes you think that something is wrong, but it's really quite normal. Have over 150K on Vic and Indian engines and unless I dropped it cold (which is very infrequent) it always has that look in the pan. And not to start an argument, but I have always used the Vic and Indian oil.

Owned an 07 Victory Kingpin for 30,000 Miles and a '12 Cross Country for 80,000, and never saw foamy oil and changed them both lots using Victory Oil .. But definitely agree letting it sit all winter or even worse cranking it up when cold and not getting it up to temp with at least a 30 miles ride will definitely cause this.. Just get some fresh oil in it and Ride it at least 50 miles ..



MyKingpin.jpg
Topcoat.jpg
 

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That picture is oil with water in it..........Change the oil and filter and go out for a looooong ride.
Get it real hot. Also, check the engine breather for a kink or blockage, the one in the air cleaner. Try to avoid starting the engine when stored and when you do ride, go for at least 20-30 minutes.
I agree when I was recording data for tunes, it took me about 5 minutes just to get up to a temperature of 180F. I was surprised it took that long with an air cooled motor. Then you need to get the oil warm and run it long enough for the water to evaporate.
 

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a by-product of an internal combustion engine is water, the worst thing to do is go on short rides then shut it off. That is condensation in your oil
just like a bunch of us suspected. No big deal. Longer the ride the better it is for your engine. Go ride!
 

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From my many years as a mechanic I will share this. If it were mine, I would add fresh oil and filter. Let it idle with a good fan hitting both CYLS. Idle with very slight increase in throttle to maybe 1500 at most for a few seconds each blip....for about 10 mins. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A FAN ON THE ENGINE!!!! The reason for this, is to not put engine parts under load more than idle. The fresh oil you added after you removed the bad oil will act too flush...IN A SAFE WAY... that bad looking oil. Then install new filter and new oil.

During the winter, I could not ride from oct to Feb. Around December, I aimed fans at motor and let it idle for 30 minutes checking with non-contact thermometer. Plus the fans were blowing 38 degree air. It stayed on the cool side. I also always try to add Marvel mystery oil about 1.5 oz per fill up. I always use stabil if not going to use up gas in a month. I ALWAYS look for Ethanol free gas as well.

I have to also add this. FWIW and YMMV. I studied ICE lubrication technologies at engineering class. We did all kinds of engine destruction testing and other . As a mechanic shop owner, I had many years of experience seeing how different oils performed. As an amateur road racer, the best oil I could find was important to me. The top oils are ( in no particular order) Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Red Line and a few others. The one test that impressed me the most was Royal purple because of how it does not mix with water the way all the rest do. This allows oil to do its job, and the inevitable water to burn off easily.
 
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