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17.5k miles on bike. First 3 oil changes done at dealer. Had recall work done for 116 connecting rods. So I was told I should have the oil changed after another 500 miles like breaking in when new. About the recall work. They broke special tool for taking out connecting rods. Waited a couple weeks for that. Then found out they had to cut out one of the rods anyway. Got the bike back and ran for about 100 miles, when it backfired after starting up and died out. Wouldn't crank up after that. Found out some teeth on starter gear broke off. They fixed that. Bike has run great since then. Better than before. So now time to do the 500 mile oil change. Decide to do myself as I have always done this on my other bike I had before. I have a couple more things I want to add to bike. LED lights, Heat Shield from Captain Itch and Buffalo Air Horn. So I go to take off the seat and the screw on the left side for seat comes out real hard. I could tell it was not put in straight. Yes it was stripped. Mechanic must of forced that screw in. Sure they won't believe me. So I do the oil change. I watched videos and read how to do this to make sure there wasn't anything I was missing. I am putting drain plugs back in with crush washers I bought at Indian Dealer. As usual I do by hand to make sure they go in straight until hand tight. I then proceed to tighten with ratchet. Right side or inside drain plug goes in great. A little resistance at crush washer and then tightens and stops. Good to go. Now left side or outside plug I begin to tighten and I get a little resistance from crush washer so I keep going to tighten up. But it never gets to the point to tighten. Keeps spinning. I know something is not right. So I go to back out and it won't back out. Great! I know this must be stripped also. Right side you can't see the crush washer because it is inside the counterbore. Left side you can still see the crush washer.
Did I do something wrong to strip the hole out, or did my dealer mechanic possible damage the threads on last oil change? Will bring it to them and see what they say and see if they will repair no charge, but think they will say it is my fault. Not worried about the seat threaded hole. Will try and chase the thread first before I attempt Helicoil. I am a retired machinist, so I know how to do the repair. If I have to repair the oil drain plug thread, I am wondering what would be best used for doing this? Thanks for any input.
 

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I am a retired machinist, so I know how to do the repair. If I have to repair the oil drain plug thread, I am wondering what would be best used for doing this? Thanks for any input.
Well, it really sucks to hear this but at least you are experienced and confident you can handle it yourself.

Whenever I have stripped anything I usually found some thread debris coming back out with the bolt.

You didn’t see any? when you pulled the drain plugs?

I did read about a few guys stripping them when doing their own oil changes back say 2 years ago but nothing recently.

Best of luck in getting it sorted out. I have to do my own oil in the next little bit.

WD./
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, it really sucks to hear this but at least you are experienced and confident you can handle it yourself.

Whenever I have stripped anything I usually found some thread debris coming back out with the bolt.

You didn’t see any? when you pulled the drain plugs?

I did read about a few guys stripping them when doing their own oil changes back say 2 years ago but nothing recently.

Best of luck in getting it sorted out. I have to do my own oil in the next little bit.

WD./
I did see some debris when taking out the screw for the seat, but not the drain plug.
I actually had a ride I wanted to go on and didn't have time for a repair, so I filled with oil and ran the bike and no oil leak. Now just looking at options that are out there. I am hoping that it is like Max said, the plug and not the pan. Thanks for your input.
 

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After you fix the thread, try these. This IS NOT the correct size I don't think. I had dealer put in for me at last oil change. I have on all my vehicles for years. They work great and never a drop of oil.

Dorman EZ Drain Oil Pan Drain Plugs 092-006
Or a Fumoto valve, have one on my F150, works well. They now make a flat version for motorcycles.....
 

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Well, it really sucks to hear this but at least you are experienced and confident you can handle it yourself.

Whenever I have stripped anything I usually found some thread debris coming back out with the bolt.

You didn’t see any? when you pulled the drain plugs?

I did read about a few guys stripping them when doing their own oil changes back say 2 years ago but nothing recently.

Best of luck in getting it sorted out. I have to do my own oil in the next little bit.

WD./

I believe in 2017 they beefed up the area were the drain plugs are to have more threads.
 

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17.5k miles on bike. First 3 oil changes done at dealer. Had recall work done for 116 connecting rods. So I was told I should have the oil changed after another 500 miles like breaking in when new. About the recall work. They broke special tool for taking out connecting rods. Waited a couple weeks for that. Then found out they had to cut out one of the rods anyway. Got the bike back and ran for about 100 miles, when it backfired after starting up and died out. Wouldn't crank up after that. Found out some teeth on starter gear broke off. They fixed that. Bike has run great since then. Better than before. So now time to do the 500 mile oil change. Decide to do myself as I have always done this on my other bike I had before. I have a couple more things I want to add to bike. LED lights, Heat Shield from Captain Itch and Buffalo Air Horn. So I go to take off the seat and the screw on the left side for seat comes out real hard. I could tell it was not put in straight. Yes it was stripped. Mechanic must of forced that screw in. Sure they won't believe me. So I do the oil change. I watched videos and read how to do this to make sure there wasn't anything I was missing. I am putting drain plugs back in with crush washers I bought at Indian Dealer. As usual I do by hand to make sure they go in straight until hand tight. I then proceed to tighten with ratchet. Right side or inside drain plug goes in great. A little resistance at crush washer and then tightens and stops. Good to go. Now left side or outside plug I begin to tighten and I get a little resistance from crush washer so I keep going to tighten up. But it never gets to the point to tighten. Keeps spinning. I know something is not right. So I go to back out and it won't back out. Great! I know this must be stripped also. Right side you can't see the crush washer because it is inside the counterbore. Left side you can still see the crush washer.
Did I do something wrong to strip the hole out, or did my dealer mechanic possible damage the threads on last oil change? Will bring it to them and see what they say and see if they will repair no charge, but think they will say it is my fault. Not worried about the seat threaded hole. Will try and chase the thread first before I attempt Helicoil. I am a retired machinist, so I know how to do the repair. If I have to repair the oil drain plug thread, I am wondering what would be best used for doing this? Thanks for any input.

Its possible the dealer stripped it. They probably over-tightened it weakening the threads but never went far enough to completely strip them. Then when you removed it, it completed the damage. My dealer stripped my seat mounting bolts, so I heli-coiled them and all is good.
 

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This is a known issue. Try to search the forum for more detailed information. Dealers and some riders have used +Time-Sert for the best solution.
http://www.timesert.com/index.html
I stripped the drain plug threads on my 07 Kingpin. I repaired it successfully with the Time-Sert kit. My equation was: Aluminum block+ steel plug+ no torque wrench= stripped threads. I live and learn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After you fix the thread, try these. This IS NOT the correct size I don't think. I had dealer put in for me at last oil change. I have on all my vehicles for years. They work great and never a drop of oil.

Dorman EZ Drain Oil Pan Drain Plugs 092-006
Thanks for the input. After looking at the website I have to ask, How much sticks out? Is it more than what is used right now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Or a Fumoto valve, have one on my F150, works well. They now make a flat version for motorcycles.....
That was my question on the Dorman. How far does it stick out compared to what is in there? I like that this one has a flat version for motorcycles. Thanks for the info.
First Gulf War Desert Shield I was a TOWW gunner and we rode in the Humvee's. On the bottom of gas tank was a rubber plug that would rip out easily when we bottomed out. Had to come up with a quick fix or lose all the gas. I found a part of antenna from our PRC 77 to jam in there to stop losing all the gas. Lol
 

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SEAT BOLT STRIPPED: If you're running a solo seat you'll need to fix it. If you have a 2-up seat you don't even need to put in the side bolts, just the screw in the back of the seat to the fender.
 

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Or a Fumoto valve, have one on my F150, works well. They now make a flat version for motorcycles.....
Right, (flat version only) - you would not want the higher profile version because it would present a possible damage hazard sticking down below everything else on the bottom of your engine case.
 

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Thanks for the input. After looking at the website I have to ask, How much sticks out? Is it more than what is used right now?
This was brought up last time I posted this solution and a few were worried about contact with objects on the ground.
It sticks out about 1/2 inch which is about 1/4 more than the existing bolts.

SEAT BOLT STRIPPED: If you're running a solo seat you'll need to fix it. If you have a 2-up seat you don't even need to put in the side bolts, just the screw in the back of the seat to the fender.
But it can easily be chased with and decent tap and die set. My dealer stripped mine as well early on.
 
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