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I simply use a hand held allen wrench. I turn it till its good and tight and stop two pecks before it strips.
Ya that's what I do to. I do all of my own oil changes for the past 94,000 miles. A friend I ride with on his 2015 chieftain his stripped out on one plug. He went and got a heli a coil drilled and put the coil in and has had no issues in the last 2 yrs. I do several of my friends oil changes and I'm always nervous I'm gonna strip one out after hearing all of the horror stories.
 

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I had a 2015 Chieftain and did all my own oil changes. I was always careful to start the drain plugs by hand being extra careful not to get them cross threaded. I never tightened them much past snugged down. I went 5 riding seasons on that bike without stripping out the drain holes. I'll do the same with my new Scout.
 

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How did you get the screws back out? Mine keep turning.

I had the same thing happen when I did my 500 mile initial oil change on my Chieftain #873 (which I bought from Barnett as it happens). The 1st plug came out and went back in nice and smooth. The 2nd took more effort to unscrew, and when I screwed it back in it just kept turning. I couldn't believe it, I worked as a motorcycle mechanic for years and I never stripped a drain plug. I got it back out (with some effort), laid the bike over on it's side on the crash bar and drilled and tapped the hole for an over-size plug from the auto parts store. I figured that Indian wasn't going to warranty a stripped plug, and maybe it was my mistake anyway (also I'm 5 hours from El Paso and was in the school machine shop when it happened). I've had no further problems on subsequent oil changes. Its very interesting to hear that others have had the same problem and I will let Barnett know about my experience.
--- Randall
 

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How did you get the screws back out? Mine keep turning.
I forced the thin edge of a gasket scraper (stiff putty knife) under the edge of the screw head and pried at it while turning the screw counter-clockwise to remove it. I worked up to thicker pry-bars as the distance increased but kept up pressure to bring it out as I turned. Be patient and careful of prying too hard lest you break a chunk out of the case. It might also be possible to drill the plug screw out using progressively larger diameter drill bits, but keeping chips out of the engine will be a problem.
--- Randall
 

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I've never had this problem with any of my bikes or other bikes I've worked on.But I have run into the problem a number of times on four wheelers.However,when changing the oil for the first time on my Indian,both plugs were also waaaaaaaaaaaay too tight,as I had to really put some beef into the wrench to break em free,and thankfully,they did NOT break or strip out.So my guess is,who ever the last guy was who put those plugs in,went waaay over board tightening em.[he probably used a three foot breaker bar to get em nice and tight so they wouldn't leak! lol lol] But you are ,indeed "fortunate" they did NOT break cause as you know,that's when the fun really starts.lol lol And how do I know this?? Cause I too have been there and done it,but on four wheelers,and I'm NOT the guy who over tightened em.I'm the guy who had to rectify the problem after the fact.DUH!!! lol lol
 

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I think you also need to change the oil when the engine is hot. I've heard this issue popping up especially when changing cold.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Make good sense, change oil when oil and engine are hot so oil drains well, and engine cases are hot to the touch!
 

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Oil is ALWAYS changed when HOT! Ya NEVER change it when it's cold!! Why?? Cause any impuities that have formed in the motor will not drain out when the oil is cold,or even just warm.It must be hot,otherwise you're just wasting your time and money!!!
 

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Metal expands when hot... So does that mean yer hole expanded (oil drain hole that is) expanded, making it easier for the plug (that would be the oil drain plug) to be removed when the engine is hot?

Geeesh... yew guys should really get your minds out of the gutter :sneaky:
 
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If the drain plug was not over tightened [set to the proper torque spec] then it will break free when hot.But if you over tighten it,then you WILL have balls breaking it loose if it breaks free at all.But if ya let the motor cool off,then it should break free,but the oil will not be up to temp.So the bottom line is,tighten it to the proper torque setting.After a few times doing this,you should then know when tight enough is tight enough without using a torque wrench. (y)
 

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Thanks Dave, always informative. I've changed the oil on all my own bikes for 50ish years, and a few friends bikes too, and haven't stripped threads....yet LOL.
 

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Thanks Dave, always informative. I've changed the oil on all my own bikes for 50ish years, and a few friends bikes too, and haven't stripped threads....yet LOL.
But ya still have to be carefull,especially when working on these scooters.Why?? Because everything is aluminum and the bolts are steel [hence we have two dissimilar metals] and as should you know by now,aluminum will strip out REAL EASY.So when working on these scooters,"CAUTION" is the word!! (y) And don't ask how I know this!!:oops::rolleyes: lol lol Dave!!!
 

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If anyone is drilling and tapping to repair this issue you should ensure the flutes in the drill bit and tap are filled with axle grease. The grease will trap and hold most of the metal fragments created by drilling and tapping. The less shrapnel that winds up inside the engine case the better.
[/QUOT

If you use "chip clearing drill bits" they pull the chips OUT of the hole, rather than into it. AND you should still pack the bit with heavy grease. Belt AND suspenders....
 

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I think you also need to change the oil when the engine is hot. I've heard this issue popping up especially when changing cold.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Isn't this common sense? Even the Indian videos etc tell you to do the same thing. Why would you try draining cold oil vs heated up? You don't want to go out to a car/bike that's been sitting and all the impurities are sitting down low.
 
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