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I had the same thing happen when I did my 500 mile initial oil change on my Chieftain #873 (which I bought from Barnett as it happens). The 1st plug came out and went back in nice and smooth. The 2nd took more effort to unscrew, and when I screwed it back in it just kept turning. I couldn't believe it, I worked as a motorcycle mechanic for years and I never stripped a drain plug. I got it back out (with some effort), laid the bike over on it's side on the crash bar and drilled and tapped the hole for an over-size plug from the auto parts store. I figured that Indian wasn't going to warranty a stripped plug, and maybe it was my mistake anyway (also I'm 5 hours from El Paso and was in the school machine shop when it happened). I've had no further problems on subsequent oil changes. Its very interesting to hear that others have had the same problem and I will let Barnett know about my experience.
--- Randall
 

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Howdy
I had an issue with my Chieftain soon after I picked it up where the tire pressure dash display was showing "-----" front and rear; the pressure when checked with a gauge was fine. I had to go to Odessa and swung by Black Gold Indian/Family Power Sports. They re-flashed the computer, under warranty, even though I had not bought the bike there (as they should have) and I've no further problems with it.

As for the stripped drain plug, I suspected, due to the effort in removing it, that it might have been over-torqued at the factory; there was also some possibility that it was my doing. In any case I was a long way from the dealer, had the tools to effect repairs at hand, and needed the bike running if I was to get home that evening. All's well now but I have sent a letter to Polaris Customer Service describing what happened.

I also lost one of the T-nuts that hold the windshield on (the others were loosening up; LocTite and check often). Black Gold Indian was willing to replace it under warranty but had to order one and wanted me to return to have the nut-plate installed, an 8 hour round-trip for me. I asked what the cost for the nut was ($2.70), and just went ahead and paid for it, plus postage to send it to me, and replaced it myself.

I've had an issue come up in the last week where the gear indicator dash display flickers between 1st, neutral, 2nd, and 3rd when the transmission is in any of those gears. The bike is shifting fine so I suspect the problem is in the gear selector sending unit. I'm going to call Barnett Indian in El Paso Tuesday and see if they can look at it next Friday or Saturday. The Indian demo-truck will be there those days so I can check out the new models while I wait. I'll keep y'all posted.
--- Randall
 

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... Any ideas on how to loosen the plug? Short of an impact wrench?

And why are the 2 plugs side by side?

TIA. Jefe
You can try heating up the aluminum of the crankcase around the plugs with an oxy-acetylene or propane torch; the aluminum expands at a different rate than the steel plugs and this will often allow them to break loose. Use a cheater to lengthen the handle on your allen wrench for more leverage. Be prepared for the idea that you may have to tap the case for an over-size plug. If you want to use a hammer impact, or you need better access to the drain hole for re-tapping you can set the Chief over onto the highway bar and it will sit there at an angle; I've done this.

The inner plug drains the oil compartment and the outer drains the semi-dry sump.

Good luck and may the Force be with you!
--- Randall
 

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Did my first DIY at 15,000 and one was way over torqued. ...not happy
That is why I work on my own stuff. At least if something goes wrong I know whose fault it is. If you find a good, honest, mechanic you should treat him like gold, you should ask after his children, and remember his birthday. An honest, competent mechanic is almost as valuable as a good family doctor
--- Randall.
 

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How did you get the screws back out? Mine keep turning.
I forced the thin edge of a gasket scraper (stiff putty knife) under the edge of the screw head and pried at it while turning the screw counter-clockwise to remove it. I worked up to thicker pry-bars as the distance increased but kept up pressure to bring it out as I turned. Be patient and careful of prying too hard lest you break a chunk out of the case. It might also be possible to drill the plug screw out using progressively larger diameter drill bits, but keeping chips out of the engine will be a problem.
--- Randall
 

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Where did you pick them up on ?
The self-tapping over-size plug I got at the local auto parts store. If you run an online search for "oil drain plug repair kit" several options will show up. The topic has also been exhaustively discussed on this site. The main problem seems to be the relatively soft aluminum used in the Polaris crankcase castings combined with thin drain bosses and over-torquing the plugs. I use the Allen wrench that came with the bike with a neoprene o-ring, Loctite thread sealer, and just snug the plug down.
--- Randall
 
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