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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought this 2017 Vintage from a non-Indian dealer. They put a new battery in it and it started fine at the dealership.

I trailered the bike home and it started okay. But as I was idling, I thought it was in neutral and released the clutch and of course since I was in gear with the brakes engaged, the motor died. After that it would not start. It would not even turn over. I thought it might be the kickstand but no. In neutral with the kickstand up, it won't turn over.

I wondered if it had something to do with the ABS? When it is in gear and the clutch engaged, the bike will not roll smoothly. Feels like the brakes are engaged! Something tells me that whatever happened when I released the clutch in gear with the brakes on caused something to happen!

It is a new battery and I put a trickle charger on it to test if any battery problems. The battery is charging and I'll see what happens if I get a full charge or if the battery is defective.
 

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Do you get at least a click from the starter solenoid? Check voltage at battery, tighten terminals and connections, and then downstream at solenoid and starter.
What does your instrument display show when you power on? Look for proper neutral indication and security fob acknowledgement. Shift gears a couple times and find neutral again. Make sure it actually is showing N on your display or it will not engage starter. You may have other safety switch issues in the mix - (clutch, or kickstand).
ABS will not prevent engine start nor change its operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick reply! No, I got nothing at all from the solenoid and starter.

But I may have more to learn about the power button. I thought the power was supposed to automatically shut off after a period of time?
After my trickle charger was running for a little while, I tried to start and it did clicking and an attempted start. After one try... dead. But waiting a minute, I got an attempted start again. The trickle charger was charging and did not show that the battery was fully charged!

If you press the power button leave it on, will it drain the battery? I never turned the power button off when I left the dealership and had about a 2 1/2 hour drive home on the trailer. Did that drain the battery? It started immediately when I got home, but only ran a few seconds before I killed the engine. Maybe battery drained and had only enough power for one start and was then dead?
 

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It probably still thinks it is in gear, or in between gears. Disconnect the negative side of the battery for a min. Then give it a try. I've had to do this at least 2 times. Good Luck
 

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Let it charge till full and try again. let us know how it comes out. Don't know what your weather is like but if you have someone that could push you you could bump start it. and then let it run. The charging system should charge faster than the trickle charger. Even take it for a ride.
 

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Thanks for the quick reply! No, I got nothing at all from the solenoid and starter.

But I may have more to learn about the power button. I thought the power was supposed to automatically shut off after a period of time?
After my trickle charger was running for a little while, I tried to start and it did clicking and an attempted start. After one try... dead. But waiting a minute, I got an attempted start again. The trickle charger was charging and did not show that the battery was fully charged!

If you press the power button leave it on, will it drain the battery? I never turned the power button off when I left the dealership and had about a 2 1/2 hour drive home on the trailer. Did that drain the battery? It started immediately when I got home, but only ran a few seconds before I killed the engine. Maybe battery drained and had only enough power for one start and was then dead?
If the key fob is out of range, the power will shut down in approximately 20 seconds. If the fob is in range, the power will shut down in about 2-3 minutes. Failing to push the power button will not run the battery down unless it is already in a seriously low state.

It is possible that the battery could have had a cell in the battery fail. In that case, the battery may have held enough charge to allow the bike to start, but then with a bad cell the battery would not be able to produce a high enough voltage to start it again even if put on a charger. If you have a voltmeter, you could measure the voltage at rest, with the power button on, and when you press the starter. If you don't have a voltmeter and there is enough voltage to show the display, you might be able to read the voltage on your display. If it shows less than 12V, your battery needs charging. But if it drops significantly (<10V) when you hit the starter, it is likely that you have a bad cell and will need a new battery.

Good luck.
 

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If the bike is in gear it can only be started with the clutch lever pulled.

Many clutch lever micro switches don't work correctly anymore because the "tongue" is bent/misadjusted or broken.

If you completely disconnect the clutch lever switch and short the contacts you should be able to start. But don't forget to actually pull the clutch or the bike jumps forward

You can reach the switch if you look underneath the clutch lever in proximity to the pivot pin. There is a small black plastic cover which needs to come off.

Sent from my SM-N976Q using Tapatalk
 

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Some of these things are already referred to above, but here's a list of common stuff to learn about the bike. It's not as daunting as the length of the list might suggest. (y)

1. The battery terminals and ground wire to frame connection are known to sometimes work loose. It only takes a momentary drop in connection for the computer to react. One of the most common pieces of advice on the forum is to check them for tightness.

2. There is a recall on the gear position sensor on all bikes, right back to 2014. The sensor sits in the side of the gearbox behind your right heel but covered by the belt guard. There is a redesigned sensor coming out this year. The problem shows up when it gets the signal wrong, saying neutral when it's actually in gear, or being sluggish to display gear changes.

It can show neutral, you hit the starter, and it surges forward. Or, it can actually be in neutral but it shows it's in gear and the motor won't start. I've had mine start up OK in neutral, then suddenly stop. When I looked at the gear indicator is says it's in gear, but it's actually still in neutral. It just decided to lie to the computer in that moment.

When starting the bike, it's best to rock the bike to make sure it really is in neutral before hitting the starter. When the new sensor is out these problems will be behind us.

3. The battery in the fob can be running down, although at three years old it shouldn't be there yet. It's a common coin battery and easy to replace.

4. The fob can be in range but the signal is not getting through. This can happen if you have the fob in a pocket with keys, pocket knife, coins, anything metal. Keep it away from metal stuff.

5. Some of the early bikes would run the battery down when stopped but a flash update fixed that. It related to the instruments still being awake but with no indication of it when the bike was turned off. Check that the dealer has applied the latest computer flashes.

6. You can be in gear, pull in the clutch, and the bike will feel sluggish when pushing it forward. That is normal. The clutch will drag a little - although the pressure between the plates is released, they do not always pull away from each other.

7. The clutch lever switch is out in the weather and sometimes it gets clogged with grime. If is doesn't register that the clutch has been pulled in, the computer doesn't like it. It's an easy thing to blow some WD40 into the switch to clean it up. The kick stand switch doesn't seem to get clogged up so much.
 

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A great list to work from for starting problems; however, a few can be ruled out in the original poster's situation ...
(#3 & 4) There will be no clicking and the fuel pump won't make any sound if the bike can't identify the fob (David said he is getting a clicking sound when hitting the starter). Also, a '-' will display on the dash and the power button will remain lit if the fob is not recognized.
(#7) Likewise, if the clutch (or kickstand) switch is faulty (or if the kickstand is down and an 'in-gear' start is attempted), there will be no clicking sound. If the bike computer is sensing that all things are not OK, there will be no response at all when the starter is pushed.
 

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After my trickle charger was running for a little while, I tried to start and it did clicking and an attempted start. After one try... dead. But waiting a minute, I got an attempted start again. The trickle charger was charging and did not show that the battery was fully charged!
Did you all miss this in his 3rd post? He said he got a click and an attempt to start....twice. So since the battery is new one would hope that the connections are tight but would be worth checking because we are human. At this point, all I would do is check the battery to make sure all is tight and charge overnight. A person would think that if it cranked and started when it arrived home that the connections are tight and the battery is just low. When a new battery is installed it's not always at full charge and needs to be driven or charged.

I would be antsy and have a bud push to get it going let it idle for a minute then hold the rpm up around 2500 and inspect the volt gage to see the charging state then go riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Can you actually push start them? Push to get a little speed and pop the clutch?

The trickle charger shows the battery fully charged. But when trying to start get a short click once, then it's dead! If I am getting the click, then that rules out problems with the FOB or not actually being in neutral, right?

Either a bad battery or maybe battery connections came loose from bumps when transporting by trailer?

What are the required cold cranking amps for the battery? What size do I need to get to try a new battery?

Thanks all!
 

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From the service manual. Doesn’t specify the cca
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Progress! I got it started! The multifunction display shows 14.5 volts when the engine is running. I understand this is the charging voltage. With the engine off, it shows the battery voltage is 12.5 which I believe is what it should be.

Still suspect there may be a loose connection that was the cause of my problems!
 

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sitting not running like 12.6v and yes you can push start them when my bike used to die when first starting out all I would do is let the clutch back out while rolling and start it back up.

What did you do differently to get it going? If nothing then the battery connections might be lose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
sitting not running like 12.6v and yes you can push start them when my bike used to die when first starting out all I would do is let the clutch back out while rolling and start it back up.

What did you do differently to get it going? If nothing then the battery connections might be lose.
I unplugged my trickle charger and plugged it back in and then tried starting again a little while later and it started. The temperature was getting colder, so I know that can affect the electrical connections. The voltage on the battery was okay right now. But battery could be defective so it doesn't hold full charge or loses voltage under load? Maybe after sitting for awhile, the battery no longer puts out 12.5 volts? But I'll check all the battery connections and hope for the best.
 

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A battery can have 12.6v and still be bad one of the ways to see this is have it tested. Although being new I would think its good but testing would not be off the table.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for you help and suggestions. Bottom line... bad battery, would not hold a charge. Only putting out 11 volts after sitting for a short time.
 

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Thanks for you help and suggestions. Bottom line... bad battery, would not hold a charge. Only putting out 11 volts after sitting for a short time.
Since it's new is the dealer going to warranty it?
 
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