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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been reading here for over two years now, which got me lots of helpful information for modifying/accessorizing the 2019 Scout ABS Thunder Black I bought in March last year. It's already a great and beautiful bike straight out of the factory, but I wanted to turn it into a more comfortable touring bike, to make it as blacked out as possible and just to make it even more fun to ride. About 18000 km (11000 miles) later it's finally finished and I would like to share the final result.

600345


All modifications from front to back:
  • Indian Front Fender Headdress Light Kit Gloss Black (fits perfectly although because of the shortness of the fender Mr. Indian looks slightly upwards instead of straight ahead)
  • J.W. Speaker LED Headlight Model 8690 (good alternative for the then-unavailable original Pathfinder LED Headlight)
  • Indian Front and Rear Turn Signals in Smoke (because less orange and more black)
  • National Cycle Custom Heavy Duty Windshield (first I had the Indian 1901 Low Fly Windscreen, but although it did help to prevent wind hitting me on the chest, it was all directed to my head instead, making it very tiring for my neck; with the National Cycle windshield I can easily keep on cruising at freeway speed until I run out of gas, although with my 178 cm (5'10") I wouldn't mind if it were even about 10 cm (4 inches) higher)
  • Koso Apollo Heated Grips (okay for 30-minute rides at near-freezing temperatures wearing my three-season REV'IT! Livengood GTX gloves)
  • Motogadget mo.view classic Glasless Rear View Mirror (so much nicer and cleaner than most if not all other glass mirrors)
  • K&N PL-1115 Air Filter (performance increase for not much more than the price of an original replacement filter)
  • Hepco&Becker Engine Protection Bar Black (much more subtle than the original huge Highway Bars; it's a motorcycle, not a butterfly)
  • Indian Rider Floorboards (no-brainer)
  • Aeromach CI-2035 Heel/Toe Shifter (no-brainer)
  • Indian Reduced Reach Rider Seat Black (reduced reach seat for a more comfortable upright position, perfect for someone of my height)
  • Progressive Suspension 970 Piggyback Shocks (mounted upside down because of the saddlebags; no bottoming out anymore on speed bumps)
  • Aeromach CI-4011MB Solo Luggage Rack Matte Black (in my opinion more stylish than the original Solo Luggage Rack)
  • Indian Genuine Leather Saddlebags Black (okay, but lockable aftermarket bags could have been a better and less expensive choice)
  • Dr. Jekill & Mr. Hyde Exhaust with the 3.5" Big Shot Black End Caps (best toy ever!)
  • Indian Heat Exhaust Shields Matte Black (because less chrome and more black)


I also had it tuned using a Dynojet Power Vision 3:
  • 14% torque increase to 96.2 Nm (70.8 lb-ft) @ 3460 rpm
  • 8% power increase to 86.1 hp @ 8050 rpm
  • Rev limiter increased to 9800 rpm (although I cannot imagine ever going this high)

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And especially the exhaust is great. With the valve closed it sounds very similar to the stock exhaust, but with the valve open it sounds really amazing, with a deep loud thundering rumble. But I wondered how much more sound it actually makes with the valve open, if any, because even with the valve open it still complies with European emission regulations (Euro 4).

So I used a simple sound meter (Trotec SL300) to perform a crude sound level measurement just above the tank while being stationary and trying to maintain a constant 3500 rpm:
  • Stock exhaust: 93 dB(A)
  • Jekill & Hyde with the valve closed: 85 dB(A)
  • Jekill & Hyde with the valve open: 86 dB(A)

So not only seems the stock exhaust to be louder, but on the new exhaust it almost makes no difference whether the valve is open or closed. I suspect that they somehow managed to filter out lots of high frequencies and allow more low frequencies to be heard in such way that we think it's louder but it actually isn't. I would like to see an elaborate measurement of all the individual octave bands, but unfortunately couldn't find one.


And lastly, for those who are interested: for all of this I paid something like 27000 euro here in the Netherlands (of which 10000 euro for the modifications), at the moment equivalent to almost 32000 US dollars. Yes, it's quite expensive over here, but it was all worth it!
 

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you need to find a better tuner the torque curve should not be falling off like that and the hp should be higher honestly. Mind you my build was more geared toward making top end power rather then torque.
600419
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is an interesting difference. But in my case the tuner focused mainly on getting more torque and not so much on horsepower.

The torque curve was very flat before tuning (around 80 Nm or 59 ft-lb at 1800 rpm and constant all the way up to around 7000 rpm). Now it's quite a bit higher in the entire range, but especially around 3000-4000 rpm. It's nice to have more torque in the rpm range that I use most of the time.

If I compare your chart with mine we both have around 80 hp at 6000 rpm, with the difference that your curve keeps on climbing after that. But that is an rpm range that I almost never use, because I don't find all the shaking and vibrating very comfortable.
 
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