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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was on motul website today and noticed they recommend 10-60 for the Ftr not 15-60 . Anyone using motul 10-60 ? Does the Ftr need 15-60 ? I live in hot Florida btw

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From Amsoil:
AMSOIL 15W-60 and 20W-40 Synthetic V-Twin Motorcycle Oil provides Indian and Victory riders the confidence and security that comes with receiving maximum protection and performance for their bikes. It presents a premium alternative to higher-priced manufacturer-branded oils.
 

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But if u go on there website and enter ftr 1200 they recommend what my pic was
Ideally, you want the lowest viscosity on the low end in a multi-viscosity oil that you can get, no matter what the temperature. This allows for almost instant lubrication because of the instant flow rate on starting up.

On the higher end of the viscosity is where you consider the temperature best for running conditions. For instance cold Winter - 20 wt. Hot Summer - 60 wt.

Much easier to measure on cars with oil pressure gauges. The thinner the oil that you can run with decent oil pressure, the better.

If I could run a 0-60 wt. oil, I would. Instant lubrication on starting and as soon as the engine is warm, the viscosity moves to the higher end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ideally, you want the lowest viscosity on the low end in a multi-viscosity oil that you can get, no matter what the temperature. This allows for almost instant lubrication because of the instant flow rate on starting up.

On the higher end of the viscosity is where you consider the temperature best for running conditions. For instance cold Winter - 20 wt. Hot Summer - 60 wt.

Much easier to measure on cars with oil pressure gauges. The thinner the oil that you can run with decent oil pressure, the better.

If I could run a 0-60 wt. oil, I would. Instant lubrication on starting and as soon as the engine is warm, the viscosity moves to the higher end.
Thanks for info !
 

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And while we're at it... how often do people change their oil? It's hot as hell around here, and I'm not afraid of keeping the bike at higher RPMs for extended rides. I feel like 10k is way too long, but maybe that's just a mental hang up that I should get over.
 

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And while we're at it... how often do people change their oil? It's hot as hell around here, and I'm not afraid of keeping the bike at higher RPMs for extended rides. I feel like 10k is way too long, but maybe that's just a mental hang up that I should get over.
I have been doing every 5K miles or once per year (which ever comes first) with all of my Indian and Victory stuff for years.... Many other owners are doing the same.... Also, many using Indian brand oil.... Why not, everything I have read suggests it's a good product....
 

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I think I might do the same schedule as you. Worst case is that I'm wasting a few bucks... but I'm buying some peace of mind with that money so I guess it's worth it for me. With sportbikes I've owned since new in the past, I've always change the oil at least twice w/i the first 1k miles. Probably unnecessary, but oil was cheap. 15w60 isn't so cheap; but over the time I will own the bike, it won't be terrible expensive to cut the oil change interval in half.

I'm also kind of in the camp of believing that we should be changing fork oil way more often that people do.
 

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So then what is the reason that Indian says 15w60 and doesn't give alternatives in their manual?
Only Indian would have the answer to that. Maybe they did runs with the engines hooked up to oil pressure gauges and felt that was the best under all conditions. Maybe they felt with that published spec, everyone would be in the ballpark.

You can best determine what weight oil works for your engine and conditions by having an oil pressure gauge and comparing pressure and temperature.
 

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And while we're at it... how often do people change their oil? It's hot as hell around here, and I'm not afraid of keeping the bike at higher RPMs for extended rides. I feel like 10k is way too long, but maybe that's just a mental hang up that I should get over.
Only thing that I can offer is when an engine is running and oil is circulating, there is hardly any wear. Most of your wear occurs during a cold start, especially if the motor has not run for any length of time. You can start your engine on a cold morning after sitting a week and that will be more wear than running 500 miles.

With a good oil and running 2 or 3 times a week, there is a good barrier of oil when you start. It is even better with the synthetic oils we use today.

The other wear item is contamination. With a sealed engine and good filters, not so much a problem. Back in the 60's and earlier with road draft tubes for crankcase ventilation and oiled mesh filters, you would need to change oil and filter at least every 3,000 miles. Now, 10K or more is reasonable. Actually, thank you emissions control for better engine longevity. :p
 

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Only Indian would have the answer to that. Maybe they did runs with the engines hooked up to oil pressure gauges and felt that was the best under all conditions. Maybe they felt with that published spec, everyone would be in the ballpark.

You can best determine what weight oil works for your engine and conditions by having an oil pressure gauge and comparing pressure and temperature.
I don't disagree. Unfortunately, absent having an oil pressure gauge, I'm kind of left with just going off what they tell me. With things like their overpriced chain lube, I feel comfortable going outside the parameters suggested. Oil weight, however, is outside of my comfort level.

Only thing that I can offer is when an engine is running and oil is circulating, there is hardly any wear. Most of your wear occurs during a cold start, especially if the motor has not run for any length of time. You can start your engine on a cold morning after sitting a week and that will be more wear than running 500 miles.

With a good oil and running 2 or 3 times a week, there is a good barrier of oil when you start. It is even better with the synthetic oils we use today.

The other wear item is contamination. With a sealed engine and good filters, not so much a problem. Back in the 60's and earlier with road draft tubes for crankcase ventilation and oiled mesh filters, you would need to change oil and filter at least every 3,000 miles. Now, 10K or more is reasonable. Actually, thank you emissions control for better engine longevity. :p
Again, I generally agree with you here. However, running an engine at twice the RPM for the same amount of time means that (duh) it spins twice as much... therefore, it's naturally going to stress the oil more. How much more? I don't know.

I spent some time dabbling in used police vehicles. It's common knowledge that low mileage police cruisers have way more wear on their engines than their civilian counterparts with similar mileage because they sit and idle forever. In fact, there's an equation that's used to figure out the equivalent... generally to add about 30 miles for every hour spent idling when factoring "wear and tear" on an engine. I don't know if that's a good number, but it's what most people use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When I took delivery my Indian dealer told me 500 mile for break in change then every 5,000 . Once I got the bike home and started playing with the dash and seen there was a counter to 10,000 for oil change I was like WTF haha ... needless to say I would never wait 10k miles to change her oil . I kinda feel bad going to wait 5k miles haha , I'll prob do it at 3500-4k ish
 

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There is no magic bullet when it comes to oil. Every manufacturer will tell you they are the best. Seems unlikely this is true...use quality, synthetic oil, proper weight, change it routinely, and then use your mental resources to think about other, more inane things...
 
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