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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2018 Indian Roadmaster thats pretty much stock. I don't have stage 1 exhaust and I'm in the process of removing the cat from my header. I'm also considering popping the caps out of my stock mufflers or swapping them out. Once done, I realize that I'll have to either take it to the dealer to remap or or put an EFI controller on to do the mapping myself. I'd like to keep the cost down as much as possible. I called the dealer and was not at all encouraged...all he wanted to do was sell me a stage 1 kit and recommend that afterward, I just leave the stage 1 mapping and that would work. There are several controllers out there. It seems that the power commander V is most popular, but there's also Dynojet, Vance & Hines and I'm sure many more. I would some advice of which direction I should go.

Thanks
Dave
 

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You will enjoy the RM it is do comfortable and practicle
I fitted the commander unit with Freedom pipes and high flow air filter
 

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There are several controllers out there. It seems that the power commander V is most popular, but there's also Dynojet, Vance & Hines and I'm sure many more. I would some advice of which direction I should go.

Thanks
Dave
There are two main types of tuning devices.

First up are those that are wired to the bike permanently, like the Power Commander V. These interrupt the fuel/timing signals coming from the computer, modify those signals according to settings preferred by the dyno operator, and send the modified signals to the bike. For many years these were considered the best way to tune a bike and many dyno tuners prefer them because that's what they've used for so long. The PCV only controls fuel, you need their ignition module to control timing. The V&H tuner is also this type, they make one for the Scout, otherwise it's HD only.

Second type does not become a permanent part of the bike, they plug to the diagnostic port, flash the computer with a new tune and are removed. The Power Vision 3 is this type. This system makes much more variation possible and has rapidly overtaken the others as a preferred method of tuning. One significant advantage of this system is that a new tune can be downloaded and flashed to the bike in minutes if there is a change in pipes, cams, air cleaner etc. There is also free software available that allows the rider to set personal preferences, such as how aggressively the throttle response behaves. A forum search of PVCX or PV3 (new version) will bring up mountains of info.

There is also sub-group of type #1. It has a built-in algorithm that reads the data in real time and alters it to give what it considers to be optimum fuel/air ratio and sends that altered data to the motor. Users say this is a preferable method for heavy acceleration where the load conditions are constantly changing.

The stock Indian tunes are calibrated for pollution requirements but do not give best performance. Many forum members have their bikes tuned with the PVCX or PV3 and I suspect this is the most popular device by far.
 

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2019 Roadmaster matte black and gray
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I've had the PC type (gman industries on my scout) and the newer Tier 1 tuner (sub-group referred to above) on my roadmaster.

I liked the PC type lots of customizing possible. Bit of a learning curve with it, and I admittedly didn't mess with it much.

The Tier 1 tuner is plug and play, super easy. Plays really nicely with the k&n and Vance and hines pipes. Makes the roadmaster growl and go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How about the Dobeck Performance EJK controller? It appears that this one is simply manual inputs for fuel control.
 

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You might consider executing the modifications in steps. I have seen several RMs run quite well with the CAT gutted and the Stage age 2 factory map. Your indian has a good oxygen sensing fuel delivery system that usually has enough bandwidth to cover the installation of the Stage 1 air intake along with a gutted CAT. I have found gutting the CAT will dramatically increase the exhaust noise even with the stock mufflers. I suggest you gut the CAT first, install the Indian Performance Air Filter along with the Stage 2 map second, and ride your RM for at least a week or two to see if you enjoy the performance and the significant exhaust noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds like good advice. I'm trying to determine which fuel controller to install. I do like the less invasive install of the Dynojet V and the Dynojet PVCX as they just plug into the plug on the left side of the bike; However, what I don't know at this point is the cost from companies like Fuel Moto to send mapping software to you. Anyone with this info? I tried calling Fuel Moto and hung up after being on hold for an extended period.
 

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Ah, I agonized on that decision as well. During my seeking "which controller to use" period I talked to several Indian mechanics and factory reps. A common piece of advice formed. Several Indian mechanics pointed out to me almost all of the engine failures or longevity problems they encountered with Indian engines were accompanied by the use of after market tuners. I have had several tuners inform me the after market tuners can make the rear cylinder run excessively hot and they can get almost the same performance, if not more, out of the 111/116 with the full Stage 3 install. For me, I find the best performance combination so far is the full Stage 3 install with the Indian map, cat gutted, factory OEM mufflers. Of course I do not, and would not, ride my RM on public roads where the EPA could provide me with a healthy fine for having a gutted CAT. Having said that, the CAT gutting reduces the overall engine heat dramatically. Experimentation with a few RMs has found the gutted CAT with OEM mufflers likes exhaust back pressure. So, adding stainless steel batting at the input chamber of each muffler tends to wake up the beast with a nice sound. After my search for info, and trial and error, I would recommend the RMs be run without an add-on tuner. Save the money. BTW I know of a RM, configured as above, that will run circles around most HDs and stock Indians while getting 42 MPG on the highway. A RM rider told me a tale of paying for an add-on tuner and then paying for dyno-time with a highly qualified mechanic, then he lost the rear cylinder due to high heat levels while cruising. I have queried two of the after market tuner suppliers who indicate IT CAN HAPPEN.
 
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