I just left my 116 engine stock and put the Stage One Slip-Ons on for looks and sound. Not the cheap route but I do like them.
LLoyd’s tune for the 22’ super Chief Ltd.
Well I am finally going to get the fuel pump and kickstand recall taken care of. I just found out that the Indian dealer that is about an hour away is a Loydz remote tune shop. So I am going to have them do the tune to my bike. I have the Freedom exhaust and the Indian round high flow intake. The bike is running lean as I have decel popping which is absolutely annoying. I hope this solves that issue as it is the only choice I have. It is kinda expensive so I hopes this works. Anyone else run into this issue and did the tune solve or drastically reduce the popping?
21 - 40 of 79 Posts
I’m trying to find someone in southern California that can do a loydz tune. Just put the 2 into 1 freedom and it runs fine, (I have the Indian stage 2 tune) but want to run better. Not faster, hopefully more efficient/smooth. No heat next to my leg anymore. And it is a bit too loud for me so I’m getting a quite baffle. Definitely feels faster too!
if parts are proven to add power how can it be said they just are for looks and sound lol...my buddies darkhorse with tune, filter, exhaust runs smoother and pulls harder than my bike does now that is stock lol
if parts are proven to add power how can it be said they just are for looks and sound lol...my buddies darkhorse with tune, filter, exhaust runs smoother and pulls harder than my bike does now that is stock lol
The tune alone would make the bike run better. The tune makes the biggest difference on the bikes. Not exhaust or intake. Dyno proven time and time again.
Post number 1 ? What an entrance that screams Troll. I’ve got a stage one tuned Challenger that will out run a stock bike, proven many times.It has always interested me no matter the manufacturer, how the emissions/exhaust designers have consistently failed to design an efficient/attractive system and leave it up to the owner to spend $500-$1200/$2000 for a system that then has to be “tuned” to eliminate the problems the aftermarket system creates and often leaves an owner with a system that “I can live with” Primarily to create more noise & less weight giving the owner & listeners the perception that they’re going faster than the oem system allows. The reality is that the owner can’t use current m/c‘s stock performance capabilities let alone any increase in performance.
Generally, most all performance mods increase the speed at which one day you may eventually crash..
Any modification which changes the volumetric efficiency of an engine needs a tune to get accurate/smooth control of the combustion!
If you just put parts into the air/gas path and stick with an unefficient (EPA corsett AND basically bad precanned factory tunes stock tunes, remember the early 111 stage 2 tunes??) you are not gaining anything but are in anecdotal/coincidence land. Most likely your ECU is trying harder (up to fix limits of about 25% plusminus) to compensate in closed loop and in open loop is entirely off (leaner than the relatively rich settings of stock 111 tunes and and MUCH leaner on 116 BBKs with the smaller/earlier injectors which are already running beyond borderline dutycycles!) up to knock and EGTs north of preset threshods (and severe autoretard by the ECU due to seen knock and enrichment attempt in component protect mode due to EGTs beyond healthy)!
Evidence (data!) has shown that some intakes and exhaust systems increase Volumetric Efficiency by more than 10% in the upper open loop areas! (to accurately hit a preset AFR you would need 10% more fuel!)
Does a correctly dialed in tune produce more power then?
I would say so! (especially if you get the cylinder balance right and the timing just advanced enough before knock)
Thing is that even with the right injector sizing and a perfect tune for a smooth and controlled combustion for a given set of bolt ons/ins, there is an upper limit with our Thunderstroke 2 valve heads with the 90 degree exhaust port castration (due to cosmetics!!!). The heads can only flow so much, regardless how unrestricted intake and exhaust side is set up!
I cringe on how much the "new consumers" meanwhile rely on "approximate" precanned tunes.
(far too many flow variations for in out available!)
There was a time not so long ago when qualified tuners NEVER gave out "precanned tunes"! But since fuelpack and co for da hardleys we are on the bandwagon as well ... yay with PV4 we can try out tunes from the database until our engine melts.
BTW ... even when I still had 111 ci ... with my 585 cams, a certain intake, a certain header and stock 111 injectors I was running in average about 85% injector duty cycle front and rear at WOT to hit AFR of 12.6! (NOT healthy anymore, when component protect kicks in and tries to hit AFRs of 11ish!)
Sent from my SM-N976Q using Tapatalk
If you just put parts into the air/gas path and stick with an unefficient (EPA corsett AND basically bad precanned factory tunes stock tunes, remember the early 111 stage 2 tunes??) you are not gaining anything but are in anecdotal/coincidence land. Most likely your ECU is trying harder (up to fix limits of about 25% plusminus) to compensate in closed loop and in open loop is entirely off (leaner than the relatively rich settings of stock 111 tunes and and MUCH leaner on 116 BBKs with the smaller/earlier injectors which are already running beyond borderline dutycycles!) up to knock and EGTs north of preset threshods (and severe autoretard by the ECU due to seen knock and enrichment attempt in component protect mode due to EGTs beyond healthy)!
Evidence (data!) has shown that some intakes and exhaust systems increase Volumetric Efficiency by more than 10% in the upper open loop areas! (to accurately hit a preset AFR you would need 10% more fuel!)
Does a correctly dialed in tune produce more power then?
I would say so! (especially if you get the cylinder balance right and the timing just advanced enough before knock)
Thing is that even with the right injector sizing and a perfect tune for a smooth and controlled combustion for a given set of bolt ons/ins, there is an upper limit with our Thunderstroke 2 valve heads with the 90 degree exhaust port castration (due to cosmetics!!!). The heads can only flow so much, regardless how unrestricted intake and exhaust side is set up!
I cringe on how much the "new consumers" meanwhile rely on "approximate" precanned tunes.
(far too many flow variations for in out available!)
There was a time not so long ago when qualified tuners NEVER gave out "precanned tunes"! But since fuelpack and co for da hardleys we are on the bandwagon as well ... yay with PV4 we can try out tunes from the database until our engine melts.
BTW ... even when I still had 111 ci ... with my 585 cams, a certain intake, a certain header and stock 111 injectors I was running in average about 85% injector duty cycle front and rear at WOT to hit AFR of 12.6! (NOT healthy anymore, when component protect kicks in and tries to hit AFRs of 11ish!)
Sent from my SM-N976Q using Tapatalk
well you have your opinion. You only have one post and should probably post in the new member’s section first.It has always interested me no matter the manufacturer, how the emissions/exhaust designers have consistently failed to design an efficient/attractive system and leave it up to the owner to spend $500-$1200/$2000 for a system that then has to be “tuned” to eliminate the problems the aftermarket system creates and often leaves an owner with a system that “I can live with” Primarily to create more noise & less weight giving the owner & listeners the perception that they’re going faster than the oem system allows. The reality is that the owner can’t use current m/c‘s stock performance capabilities let alone any increase in performance.
Generally, most all performance mods increase the speed at which one day you may eventually crash..
Prove it. Stop making claims you cant back up. The fact that full exhausts and or intake modifications require alterations to the tune in order to correct the air fuel ratio fundamentally proves that they increase power. You cant have a necessity to provide more fuel to the motor without providing more air which by literal thermal dynamic law means the engine is making more power.The tune alone would make the bike run better. The tune makes the biggest difference on the bikes. Not exhaust or intake. Dyno proven time and time again.
It’s the same with cars, too. The intake/exhaust make the engine more efficient. An engine is essentially one giant air pump. More air in, more air out, but to really reap the benefits of either, more fuel needs to be added.Prove it. Stop making claims you cant back up. The fact that full exhausts and or intake modifications require alterations to the tune in order to correct the air fuel ratio fundamentally proves that they increase power. You cant have a necessity to provide more fuel to the motor without providing more air which by literal thermal dynamic law means the engine is making more power.
All bikes and cars are neutered from the factory (thanks EPA), so a tune will benefit either even without any mods. I’m not saying there’s no hp to gain from mods if the vehicle is properly tuned to utilize them, but just slapping an intake or exhaust on something won’t make you run 10’s.
Love your avatar by the way - I saw Danzig a few years back & Doyle made an appearance. They played a lot of the old misfits songs. It was amazing!!!!!!
I can't find an overlay for a TS engine (honestly I didn't search too hard because this type of thread is all over the forum with similar dyno results for just about every make/model), but this is a challenger... Runs 1 and 2 are with Indian stage 1 intake, louvered exhaust, and stage 1 tune according to the thread. Slight increase in numbers, but not worth the investment for the marginal gains. Your opinions may vary...
![Rectangle Slope Font Plot Line]()
Thread source: Latest Dyno Chart
Thread source: Latest Dyno Chart
In my opinion, Dyno tuning will make a stock bike run better because they are detuned for emissions.. Adding headers and intake are mostly for sound and look but will make the bike look faster and sound faster. Dyno tuning after adding intake and headers will make the bike run better than a stock bike with a Dyno.
Prove it. Stop making claims you cant back up. The fact that full exhausts and or intake modifications require alterations to the tune in order to correct the air fuel ratio fundamentally proves that they increase power. You cant have a necessity to provide more fuel to the motor without providing more air which by literal thermal dynamic law means the engine is making more power.
Well here is the proof!
The intake and exhaust do nothing to improve anything on these stock bikes period. Therefore, no fuel needed.
Here are some dyno charts for the 111/116 with stoick, tune only and addons. You will see that the stock tune made the biggest difference, and then adding intake and exhaust made almost ZERO difference.
Dyno Charts - Fuel Moto University (fuelmotousa.com)
I can't load it.Well here is the proof!
The intake and exhaust do nothing to improve anything on these stock bikes period. Therefore, no fuel needed.
Here are some dyno charts for the 111/116 with stoick, tune only and addons. You will see that the stock tune made the biggest difference, and then adding intake and exhaust made almost ZERO difference.
Dyno Charts - Fuel Moto University (fuelmotousa.com)
Lol.. I was typing this as you posted this...Well here is the proof!
The intake and exhaust do nothing to improve anything on these stock bikes period. Therefore, no fuel needed.
Here are some dyno charts for the 111/116 with stoick, tune only and addons. You will see that the stock tune made the biggest difference, and then adding intake and exhaust made almost ZERO difference.
Dyno Charts - Fuel Moto University (fuelmotousa.com)
So from stock and adding just a tune (i.e more efficiency): +3 HP and +7TQ. Then add your Stage 1: +3HP, no TQ improvement.
We feel TQ as power... no one would notice a +3, or a net +6, HP improvement anyway. So essentially the stage 1 does no improvement over a properly tuned stock setup...
Well HP increased with slip-ons and AC. No big increases though. The real test is with a full header system, not slip-ons.Lol.. I was typing this as you posted this...
So from stock and adding just a tune (i.e more efficiency): +3 HP and +7TQ. Then add your Stage 1: +3HP, no TQ improvement.
We feel TQ as power... no one would notice a +3, or a net +6, HP improvement anyway. So essentially the stage 1 does no improvement over a properly tuned stock setup...
View attachment 741594
View attachment 741595
View attachment 741596
Looking at the charts you can see a gain from stock and with the change with the de cat and other mods so I'm confused on how you can say there's no gain lolWell here is the proof!
The intake and exhaust do nothing to improve anything on these stock bikes period. Therefore, no fuel needed.
Here are some dyno charts for the 111/116 with stoick, tune only and addons. You will see that the stock tune made the biggest difference, and then adding intake and exhaust made almost ZERO difference.
Dyno Charts - Fuel Moto University (fuelmotousa.com)
Those results are also posted on the FM site, and yes there is an increase on the system they tested.Well HP increased with slip-ons and AC. No big increases though. The real test is with a full header system, not slip-ons.
Headers do a lot to change airflow and backpressure so full system has a lot more impact than just mufflers. Technically speaking a full exhaust is like stage 1.5, so once you get into that territory plus cams, then you see improvements.
Those graphs there say more power was made so to say no power is made is wrong.. and as for cost vs gain is completely subjectiveLol.. I was typing this as you posted this...
So from stock and adding just a tune (i.e more efficiency): +3 HP and +7TQ. Then add your Stage 1: +3HP, no TQ improvement.
We feel TQ as power... no one would notice a +3, or a net +6, HP improvement anyway. So essentially the stage 1 does no improvement over a properly tuned stock setup...
View attachment 741594
View attachment 741595
View attachment 741596
Well HP increased with slip-ons and AC. No big increases though. The real test is with a full header system, not slip-ons.
The best numbers on a 111/116 was with the stock exhaust with the stock mufflers with the plugs punched out. 1.7" bafflers give the best torque to HP numbers. 1.7 ' baffles are unfortuneately quiet.
Look and do a search on the Thunderstroke performance pages. Here tons of info on how these bikes are pretty much maxed out. You have to go cams to get any more real power.
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