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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. Thought I would share my experience putting on Karyakyn mid controls on my '19 Bobber. Thanks to this forum, I learned that the factory foot pegs will not work from a Bobber. They will bolt up, but they stick way out and there becomes some clearance issues. I found a set of standard Scout controls off a wrecked bike for $120. Included levers and hardware, which will be necessary to make one complete peg set. Installation of the controls was easy, but can be done wrong so I don't recommend doing this yourself if you don't have a little mechanical knowledge. Brackets are really sturdy and tie in both ends of the frame together, which I kinda like, even though it's absolutely unnecessary on a Scout. I like the controls. They're super strong and really well priced. I'm 260lbs and they don't flex at all when I stand on them. Here's what kinda sucks, the Scout Bobber is not designed for mid controls. At all. You feet will hit EVERYTHING. I already have standard Scout shocks that I've added an additional 1/2" of ride height to. I'm at about 2" over stock height and my feet or pegs scrape if I even think about cornering with any aggression at all. My advice, you MUST get either 12"+ rear shocks or a significantly taller wheel and tire combo (think flat tracker). Oh, and my tires are 1/2" taller than stock too. So then theres the seat height issue. I'm 6'1" and I put a mustang super thick roadtrip ugly seat on the bike. That gave me juuuust enough seat height to make the bike rideable for any length of time. It's still not correct though. I also got Rox (I think) adjustable risers and Ermgo 3.5" rise flat track bars so I wasn't hunched over so bad. I have a solo 1920 seat on the way to hopefully sort out the seat height issue. So, in conclusion, and this is just my own opinion of course, only go for the mid controls if you're either a very small person or you want to change the entire bike. Personally, I knew and wanted to change the whole bike. I like sporty bikes with a "standard" riding style. If it gives you an idea of my style of bike, I almost bought a Honda CB1100EX instead of the Scout Bobber.
 

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Great review. I was always under the impression that mid controls would give you a lil extra lean angle on these bobbers.
 

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No matter what shocks you install, the pegs still remain the same (short) distance from the road and scrape once you lean. All you change with longer shocks is “seat height”. What actually did raise your pegs 1/4”, was putting 1/2” taller tires on, but only 1/4” (half of it) applies to raising your axle to the ground (= peg height)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Springs and shocks don't affect the distance from the seat to the pegs. Longer springs and shocks will increase ride height and thus give more peg to road clearance.
 

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Wrong
 

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Spring and shock length does indeed raise ride height, but your pegs remain the same distance from the street. Read my comment above what raised your pegs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your pegs are attached to your frame, correct? If your frame increases it's distance from the ground, then your pegs in turn must also increase distance.
 

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No I don't think so. The pegs remain at the exact same location, except you install taller tires, then the axle will be raised (half of the height difference only = difference in radius) and therefore your frame with the pegs will be raised as well. If you install longer springs/shocks, your seat height goes up, but not the pegs. Think this way: Let's picture a triangle. The lower point of this triangle between let's say the "handlebar", the "foot pegs", and the top of your "seat". Nothing changes between handlebar and foot pegs and nothing changes between handle bar and seat. But between foot pegs and seat, you put longer springs, ok? Since you didn't change how your bike hugs the road, the tire is still the same, so your swing-arm and the rear axle is still at the same distance from the road, only your seat was pushed up the amount your new shocks/springs are longer - kind of, depends on how stiff or soft they are, but the lower point of this triangle did not change position at all. Hope you could follow my explanation - I tried hard explaining this. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When you put longer springs and shocks on the suspension of the bike, you are changing the relationship of the bike frame, which includes everything attached to the frame directly, (such as the seat, pegs and handlebars) to the road. The shocks do not attach to the seat. They attach to the frame and swingarm. It is impossible that the springs and shocks would change seat height without changing peg height as well. I've been building and working on bikes a long time. Changing the height of your suspension absolutely changes the ride height of a vehicle. Unless the pegs were attached to the rear swingarm or the front lower forks, the pegs have to move with the frame. I think that you're trying to say that changing only rear peg height has little to no effect on the pegs as they would be more affected by the fork height up don't, being that is the road contact point they are closer to. You would be correct in that they are affected less than the seat, but they are still affected. To add to that, when the pegs are moved back closer to the swingarm, such as mine have been, the height of the rear springs and shocks have a greater affect.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
After re-reading what you wrote, you're implying shock and springs changed the distance between the seat and pegs. They do not, at all. The shocks would have to attach to the seat, which they do not. The frame pivots on the swingarm. The seat and pegs are attached solidly to the frame. They go up and down on the swingarm. The swingarms stays parralel to the road. The springs and shocks control frame movement on the swingarm. Thus, everything attached directly to the frame has its relationship to the road controlled by the springs and shocks of the bike. Handlebars, seat, gas tank, engine, pegs, rear fender, headlamp, etc are all affected by springs and shocks. The swingarm and items bolted directly to it (referred to as "unsprung weight" in the racing world) are the only item not affected by springs and shocks.
 

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You are correct and I was about to respond, but you beat me :cool:(y) after I fired off my last post, I kept thinking about it and realized - in my stupid simple mind - I was thinking about the pegs attached to the swing-arm. If this was the case. my theory was right, but the pegs are part of the frame and since we are not "bending" that frame, the pegs raise. Sorry about that - can only blame the virus on my not so straight thinking :sick::eek::devilish:
 

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you beat me twice now and in addition you are right - dammit! :LOL:;)(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Haha, yeah, I don't have much to do today so I was quick on my responses. Stay safe out there and ride safe
 

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Looks like (y) ;)
Will do and you do the same! Might go for a quick spin in a bit - it's 45 and blue skies here in Chicagoland and it seems like the wife has run out of Honey-dos, so I might better sneak out quick ;):LOL::devilish:
 

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Question...
I have the Dirtybird race tech exhaust on my bobber. I’ve heard that the RSD mid controls won’t work with that exhaust because the Dirtybird exhaust blocks the mounting points for the RSD mid controls. Any of idea if this is the case with the Kuryakan mid controls? I can’t stand the forward controls. I actually want rear controls (hope you’re seeing this Indian!) but mids will be a big upgrade for now
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I can't say without having seen the Dirty Bird exhaust in person, but I don't see anything that would interfere. Being that the Kuryakyns mount from a plate that runs under the clutch basket, I think it should clear
 

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I removed my Dirty Bird Exhaust as it blocked the RSW mid controls for my Bobber. I used a radical radius pipe instead. The RSW mid controls worked great, and I was able to convert to GP shift.
 
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