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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a set of KST Apache handlebars on my 2017 Chieftain Limited. Throwing this out here for a response from anyone who installed a set of these. If so, did you have any problem afterwards with wiring harness/electrical bugs?
 

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Only issue that I had when I installed mine was that I broke the retention tab on the kill switch connector when I was routing the wires through the bars, causing the kill switch to not work (fixed with electrical tape), and I accidentally yeeted the clutch switch connector off the wires when disconnecting the clutch cable for re-routing. Fortunately, the pins were still intact, so I was able to simply replace the connector end on the bike harness.

I did have to reposition the harness connectors behind the headlight in order to create slack for the harness which was needed due to the mid-rise nature of the bars as well as the addition of the Rox risers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Right now, I’m dealing with the left side, horn switch...essentially works the same as “on button” on fairing.
 

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Right now, I’m dealing with the left side, horn switch...essentially works the same as “on button” on fairing.
So, if I understand correctly, when you press the horn button, the bike powers on? If so, when the bike is powered on, does the power button on the fairing sound the horn? If this is the case, you probably have the connectors for those switches hooked up in the wrong spot.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That would be the first thought, but its not really possible with how the connectors are designed. I have an issue with not being able to start the bike since I lost the original key fob. Before I started customizing, my individual pin worked, but because I’m getting a signal from the horn switch, I think it’s giving the ecu mixed signals. I’m probably going to “throw in the towel” and have my dealer figure this one out. It’s frustrating because I’m missing a lot of riding time.
 

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That would be the first thought, but its not really possible with how the connectors are designed. I have an issue with not being able to start the bike since I lost the original key fob. Before I started customizing, my individual pin worked, but because I’m getting a signal from the horn switch, I think it’s giving the ecu mixed signals. I’m probably going to “throw in the towel” and have my dealer figure this one out. It’s frustrating because I’m missing a lot of riding time.
After looking at the wiring diagram for the fairing, there is a common ground wire that goes from the fairing power switch to the 8-pin connector on the left switch cube, and also goes to the run/stop switch, engine start switch, chassis ground, etc, etc. It is possible that, if that ground wire was damaged and is shorting out somewhere in the harness, that could cause your issue. Given that the most stress is placed on the harness when routing through the mid-rise bars, I would begin there by inspecting the harness for damage on that wire and inspecting the connector for damage to the pin. Unfortunately, you may have to remove the bars and pull the harness back out to fully check it. If you are handy with a multimeter, you could check the ground wire for an open condition at the connectors, but with the wire being a common ground, you would have to unplug/disconnect every connector that the wire is spliced into in order to get an accurate reading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That possibility had crossed my mind. It was a PIA to route the harness through the Apache bars, but since this has been a total DIY project from the start, I should have expected a bit of troubleshooting along the way. Thanks for the response.
 

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That possibility had crossed my mind. It was a PIA to route the harness through the Apache bars, but since this has been a total DIY project from the start, I should have expected a bit of troubleshooting along the way. Thanks for the response.
Yes...took me three tries to get mine through. I eventually had to start them individually and pull them through staggered to get the connectors past the bends.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I should probably have expected something like this when after talking with a salesperson at the dealership and he informed me that he went through 3 harness’s in his custom Chieftain build. He used a set of Dirty Bird bars with similar bends. I might have to go that route if I can’t find the shorted wire. At $260 a pop according to Indian website, I don’t want to redo this at that level.
 

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I should probably have expected something like this when after talking with a salesperson at the dealership and he informed me that he went through 3 harness’s in his custom Chieftain build. He used a set of Dirty Bird bars with similar bends. I might have to go that route if I can’t find the shorted wire. At $260 a pop according to Indian website, I don’t want to redo this at that level.
I did the Dirty Bird Stampede bars when they first came out. On a RM there are three sets of harness wires that go to each side of the bars. Each has a different connector on the end. When routing the harness you need to stagger each connector (one after the other) and wrap them up and pull then thru together at one time. It takes a combination of pushing and pulling to work the harness thru the bars. It is not difficult but it does take some patience. The only issue I had with my install was the RM bars have a notch on the end of the bar for the heated grip wire. The Stampede bars did not have that notch. Had to take things back apart and put the notch in there to get the throttle to move freely. Dean
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I’m probably going to have to remove the loom to inspect the wiring. Before I run the harness back through the bars, I’ll need to wrap them with something for protection. Having the heated grips now doesn’t make it any easier as well. It was easier without the grips installed.
 

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I’m probably going to have to remove the loom to inspect the wiring. Before I run the harness back through the bars, I’ll need to wrap them with something for protection. Having the heated grips now doesn’t make it any easier as well. It was easier without the grips installed.
I used three lengths of gutted 550 cord, pulled it through the bars with safety wire. Once the cord was through the bars, I tied each length around the individual harnesses twice: one loop where the connector is, and the second loop about 4 inches down the harness. I then wrapped the harness in electrical tape from the tip of the connector to over the 2nd loop. After spraying the taped part of the harness, and the inside of the bars, with WD40, I pulled the harness with the largest connector through first, stopping when the connector reached the bend at the bottom of the bars. I then started the second harness, pulling the two harnesses together. Once the 2nd connector reached the bottom bend, I started the third harness.

Doing it that way allowed me to pull the harnesses through at the same time while avoiding having a huge bundle of connectors at one end.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks, that will be how I’ll reinstall harness. I’m going to have to remove the loom to find the short so wrapping in tape should protect it. WD40 shouldn’t make that much of a mess.
 
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