K&P Oil Filter
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I’m a big fan of K&P Engineering billet oil filters! Used them on several bikes, ATV’s, and piston airplanes over the years.
June 15 in the FB Challenger group I made a post titled:
ENGINE NOISE/IDLE & a fix?
My engine initially sounded as many describe (sewing machine, tick/clicking most noticeable at idle.) I accepted that as sitting above overhead cams & primary gears, and still believe that’s normal.
At 500mi service added Stage1Air; that seemed to quiet it a bit (just a little.)
At 1000mi I added the TAB decat & slip-ons with 1.75 baffles ...honestly can’t say if that quieted the idle “noises” or not as I was just focused on the new overall sound & perf which I really like.
Then at 1200mi I did two things that I’m going to say DID improve engine low-rpm & idle sound as well as overall smoothness: I added a billet (S1) reusable oil filter (K&P Engineering) and switched to Amsoil (15w60.)
Skipping the forever oil brand debate; I really think the oil filter is worth it because of what it’s doing. In 2013 Engine Labs did a review of billet filters, it’s a good read, google it. K&P Engineering (Colorado) have been making billet filters a long time for many applications. Their site is worth browsing, esp the tab TECHNICAL INFO / Primer on Filtration.
Bottomline, these filters are flowing 6x more oil vs standard media filters while maintaining oem filtration. Might that be a big deal & something our engines LIKE??
The vibe I get from my bike is YES.
One more twist... at that filter/oil change I was an idiot and overfilled the oil by 3/4qt. Yep dummy,, I didn’t follow the manual (from COLD engine, run 30sec then check.) Big diff on stick if oil is hot. And then I ran the bike that way on a 1000mi 3-day trip... realized my error & removed the excess 3/4 qt. Then worried if the under tank air filter was oil soaked, so I checked it ...clean.
COULD IT BE that the higher flow rate prevented the excess oil from backing up in the crankcase and blowing into the filter??
4000mi now and running smooth & strong, and quieter at idle.
Read the K&P tech page on filtration & see what you think.
(nope I don’t work for them & bought my filter)
kandpengineering.com
June 15 in the FB Challenger group I made a post titled:
ENGINE NOISE/IDLE & a fix?
My engine initially sounded as many describe (sewing machine, tick/clicking most noticeable at idle.) I accepted that as sitting above overhead cams & primary gears, and still believe that’s normal.
At 500mi service added Stage1Air; that seemed to quiet it a bit (just a little.)
At 1000mi I added the TAB decat & slip-ons with 1.75 baffles ...honestly can’t say if that quieted the idle “noises” or not as I was just focused on the new overall sound & perf which I really like.
Then at 1200mi I did two things that I’m going to say DID improve engine low-rpm & idle sound as well as overall smoothness: I added a billet (S1) reusable oil filter (K&P Engineering) and switched to Amsoil (15w60.)
Skipping the forever oil brand debate; I really think the oil filter is worth it because of what it’s doing. In 2013 Engine Labs did a review of billet filters, it’s a good read, google it. K&P Engineering (Colorado) have been making billet filters a long time for many applications. Their site is worth browsing, esp the tab TECHNICAL INFO / Primer on Filtration.
Bottomline, these filters are flowing 6x more oil vs standard media filters while maintaining oem filtration. Might that be a big deal & something our engines LIKE??
The vibe I get from my bike is YES.
One more twist... at that filter/oil change I was an idiot and overfilled the oil by 3/4qt. Yep dummy,, I didn’t follow the manual (from COLD engine, run 30sec then check.) Big diff on stick if oil is hot. And then I ran the bike that way on a 1000mi 3-day trip... realized my error & removed the excess 3/4 qt. Then worried if the under tank air filter was oil soaked, so I checked it ...clean.
COULD IT BE that the higher flow rate prevented the excess oil from backing up in the crankcase and blowing into the filter??
4000mi now and running smooth & strong, and quieter at idle.
Read the K&P tech page on filtration & see what you think.
(nope I don’t work for them & bought my filter)
Primer on Filtration – K and P Engineering
kandpengineering.com
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45 Posts
GMan1, thanks for the feedback. Pretty much confirms my thoughts exactly. Also have the Cat Delete from TAB, did the 2-1-2 running into my Rineharts since I already had them on the bike and feel a bit more improvement, better sound at the least without going crazy loud until you roll the throttle. Amsoil is my oil of choice, this is my 3rd Indian and before that a Suzuki C90 and always noticed smoother shifting and less engine sounds. Worth the cost. Did the stage 1 Air cleaner before picking it up, figured if it didn't really provide any improved power, thought it looked good.I’m a big fan of K&P Engineering billet oil filters! Used them on several bikes, ATV’s, and piston airplanes over the years.
June 15 in the FB Challenger group I made a post titled:
ENGINE NOISE/IDLE & a fix?
My engine initially sounded as many describe (sewing machine, tick/clicking most noticeable at idle.) I accepted that as sitting above overhead cams & primary gears, and still believe that’s normal.
At 500mi service added Stage1Air; that seemed to quiet it a bit (just a little.)
At 1000mi I added the TAB decat & slip-ons with 1.75 baffles ...honestly can’t say if that quieted the idle “noises” or not as I was just focused on the new overall sound & perf which I really like.
Then at 1200mi I did two things that I’m going to say DID improve engine low-rpm & idle sound as well as overall smoothness: I added a billet (S1) reusable oil filter (K&P Engineering) and switched to Amsoil (15w60.)
Skipping the forever oil brand debate; I really think the oil filter is worth it because of what it’s doing. In 2013 Engine Labs did a review of billet filters, it’s a good read, google it. K&P Engineering (Colorado) have been making billet filters a long time for many applications. Their site is worth browsing, esp the tab TECHNICAL INFO / Primer on Filtration.
Bottomline, these filters are flowing 6x more oil vs standard media filters while maintaining oem filtration. Might that be a big deal & something our engines LIKE??
The vibe I get from my bike is YES.
One more twist... at that filter/oil change I was an idiot and overfilled the oil by 3/4qt. Yep dummy,, I didn’t follow the manual (from COLD engine, run 30sec then check.) Big diff on stick if oil is hot. And then I ran the bike that way on a 1000mi 3-day trip... realized my error & removed the excess 3/4 qt. Then worried if the under tank air filter was oil soaked, so I checked it ...clean.
COULD IT BE that the higher flow rate prevented the excess oil from backing up in the crankcase and blowing into the filter??
4000mi now and running smooth & strong, and quieter at idle.
Read the K&P tech page on filtration & see what you think.
(nope I don’t work for them & bought my filter)
Primer on Filtration – K and P Engineering
But again thanks again for the feedback.
Joined
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153 Posts
I've used this filter on my '15 & '18 Roadmasters, and currently my '20 Challenger Dark Horse. All 3 use the model "S1" filter - no fitment issues...
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349 Posts
Where do you buy these filters? It does not look they sell from their website?
Tim
Tim
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249 Posts
At the K&P Engineering site select DEALER LOCATIONS. Can get online thru various sellers (Performance Cycle, & FayMeyers in Denver.)
Before buying it from Az/Ebay, confirm the actual source & brand... is it K&P or a knockoff?
Highly rec reading their page on filtration!
* no I don’t work for them nor are related in any way. I just know my engine runs smoother & quieter after switching to this higher flow filter.
kandpengineering.com
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Before buying it from Az/Ebay, confirm the actual source & brand... is it K&P or a knockoff?
Highly rec reading their page on filtration!
* no I don’t work for them nor are related in any way. I just know my engine runs smoother & quieter after switching to this higher flow filter.
Primer on Filtration – K and P Engineering
kandpengineering.com
Gman, good to know. I had a couple K & P filters on a few of my HD's and was talked out of using them for the simple reason that the stainless mesh filter does NOT filter the smaller particles out of recirculating back into your engine. I'm going back a few years now....so maybe things have changed. But I like the "aerospace" design, look and literature about this product......just want to insure that I'm gaining MAXIMUM filtration with my engine filter. Though I suppose I've never going to put a million miles on my Challenger....so if using this filter shortens the life of my engine by 400,000 miles, who cares......I won't live long enough to put the other 600,000 miles on my bike!! Would like to hear your thoughts on that matter. I can attest the quality of craftsmanship and ease in removing and replacing and cleaning the filter is the best.....just want to insure I'm getting the most (practical) and best filtration. Thnx
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153 Posts
The answer lies in the data - data is available
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249 Posts
AGREE with mlcgcf above... that’s why I posted the link to K&P’s page “Primer on Filtration.” Worth reading.The answer lies in the data - data is available
Scroll up to see it.
Most paper type filters go into bypass after about 500 miles... so all those small aren’t getting filtered anymore.
I’ve used PC Flo stainless mesh filters for almost 15 years. I caught a bad lifter before it caused serious engine damage because you see what’s in the filter every time you change oil...
I’ve used PC Flo stainless mesh filters for almost 15 years. I caught a bad lifter before it caused serious engine damage because you see what’s in the filter every time you change oil...
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Where are the PC Flow filters MADE and what’s the source of the steel mesh.... USA like the K&P ??
Did y’all notice in the Primer on Filtration article previously referenced, that K&P tested other knockoff billet filters and got far diff results?
NOT saying PC are lesser, just asking their source & wonder if they published any notes about their test results as K&P did.
Did y’all notice in the Primer on Filtration article previously referenced, that K&P tested other knockoff billet filters and got far diff results?
NOT saying PC are lesser, just asking their source & wonder if they published any notes about their test results as K&P did.
The PC Racing Flo oil filter is made in California.
After reading the article "Primer Filtration" posted above by Gman1, I ordered a new K&P Engineering Aluminum Billet S1 Machine Finished Lifetime Oil Filter from amazon including a 2-Pak O-Ring replacement set. Now I'm going to need to pick-up some new crush rings and O-Rings for the PP108 engine oil drain plug too.
Quote: "K&P Engineering focuses on maximizing flow rates while meeting or exceeding OEM filtration. Not all stainless steel filter cloth is created equal. We specify the wire diameter, thread count each direction and the type of weave to use to create our filter cloth which is how we meet the filtration and flow goals. We can get between 5 and 7 quarts of oil through our filter element in the time it takes to get 1 quart through an OEM filter element while still meeting or exceeding OEM filtration. The reason for this is that paper and synthetic filter media is made of fibers that are pressed or glued together and require a certain thickness to get to the filtration objective. This type of media inherently has more flow restriction that the filter cloth that K&P Engineering uses. We tested a pro stock engine on the dyno with a gage on both sides of the filter cavity. At wide open throttle we measured 20 lbs of differential pressure on the paper filter (0w at 180 degrees). The K&P Engineering filter measured less than 1 lb. This means the bypass on the paper filter is open letting unfiltered oil through the filter and into the engine. Ours has a lot further to go before it opens. The result is more filtered oil getting to the engine, and getting there faster. The reduction in differential pressure also results in less backpressure against the oil pump which has the potential to improve performance and or fuel mileage." UnQuote.
Quote: "K&P Engineering focuses on maximizing flow rates while meeting or exceeding OEM filtration. Not all stainless steel filter cloth is created equal. We specify the wire diameter, thread count each direction and the type of weave to use to create our filter cloth which is how we meet the filtration and flow goals. We can get between 5 and 7 quarts of oil through our filter element in the time it takes to get 1 quart through an OEM filter element while still meeting or exceeding OEM filtration. The reason for this is that paper and synthetic filter media is made of fibers that are pressed or glued together and require a certain thickness to get to the filtration objective. This type of media inherently has more flow restriction that the filter cloth that K&P Engineering uses. We tested a pro stock engine on the dyno with a gage on both sides of the filter cavity. At wide open throttle we measured 20 lbs of differential pressure on the paper filter (0w at 180 degrees). The K&P Engineering filter measured less than 1 lb. This means the bypass on the paper filter is open letting unfiltered oil through the filter and into the engine. Ours has a lot further to go before it opens. The result is more filtered oil getting to the engine, and getting there faster. The reduction in differential pressure also results in less backpressure against the oil pump which has the potential to improve performance and or fuel mileage." UnQuote.
That is a very strong statement they make about testing other stainless mesh filters, but they fail to mention those tested. It makes me wonder if it’s not just a marketing ploy.At the K&P Engineering site select DEALER LOCATIONS. Can get online thru various sellers (Performance Cycle, & FayMeyers in Denver.)
Before buying it from Az/Ebay, confirm the actual source & brand... is it K&P or a knockoff?
Highly rec reading their page on filtration!
* no I don’t work for them nor are related in any way. I just know my engine runs smoother & quieter after switching to this higher flow filter.
Primer on Filtration – K and P Engineering
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Well it looks look I'm now ready to buy and install a K & P Engineering filter to my Challenger. Good timing.....as I'll be leaving for my cross country road trip in late July!!! This is why I LOVE this forum! Happy 4th and Safe riding!!!!! Thanks for the input by all.
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166 Posts
I just wanted to say thank you to @Gman1 for the suggestion on the SS filter.
I was skeptical for sure. Ran the first 500 on the break-in oil with the noise prevalent. Used the Indian kit for the first oil change and made it past 2500 on the clock and was still getting the annoying tick.
Ended up installing this filter and switching to my preferred oil, Motul 7100 10W60. I'm not sure which of the two did the trick but I'm thinking that it was the filter just based on how much different (quieter) the idling motor is. Thank you! Great suggestion for sure.
I was skeptical for sure. Ran the first 500 on the break-in oil with the noise prevalent. Used the Indian kit for the first oil change and made it past 2500 on the clock and was still getting the annoying tick.
Ended up installing this filter and switching to my preferred oil, Motul 7100 10W60. I'm not sure which of the two did the trick but I'm thinking that it was the filter just based on how much different (quieter) the idling motor is. Thank you! Great suggestion for sure.
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