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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Apologies for the delay, but after a few attempts the 18 Scout Bobber w/ABS is back up and running. Big thank you to everyone that collectively made this happen. I will do my best to explain or answer any questions and also post pictures that might help. To recap, I completely stripped the rear of the bike to include losing the rear subframe, all lights, everything. The finished product has 1) LED Flex light strip that has 5 wires (Black, White, Red, Green, Yellow). Additionally, I installed 10'' ape hanger handlebars with Rizoma bar end turn signals. Rear quarter fender and frame insert are from Tank Machine - Accessoire moto, scooter, suzuki vanvan, bmw nine-t, casque, antivol, jantes, phare, bagagerie, poignets - Tankmachine
Reference posts #130, 149, 165
1) Begin with reviewing all conversations in the thread "Has anyone wired led strip to a bobber or aftermarket lights?".
2) I used the wiring diagram provided by #djcutandpaste in post #130 - US Bobber to Rizoma Rear Lights, Red for Brake an Amber for Turn.
3) Since I only used the LED flex light strip for the rear which is described as option 1 in post #149, the wiring only required a total of 4 relays. Again post #130 identifies the 2 different types of relays needed (links are provided in post #130). My Advice is ordering extras, this application only requires 2 - G6E-134P-US DC12 (Low Signal Relays - PCB Low Signal Relay 12VDC), and 2 - SHV12-1A85-78L4K (Reed Relays REED RELAY SPST 1A 12V), however, I went through 6 each (Yes, I ended up having to redo the wiring 3 times). Additionally, try ordering from either Mouser Electronics or Digikey.
4) Following the awesome wiring diagrams provided by "djcutandpaste" and solid advice from other members like "riteonjohn", "Quangtungnguyen" & "daveholl" on how to wire "US Bobber (2018) to Rizoma rear lights, Red for Brake and Amber for Turn" I have substituted the Rizoma rear lights to a LED Flex Strip (5 wires; Red, Black, White, Green "Right side", and Yellow "Left side") that operates as "Brake, Running, Left Turn, Right Turn".
For clarification going forward for everyone the front signal wires are as follows: Indian Front Right Wires are Blue and Brown. The same with the Left Front Wires: Indian Blue, and Brown. I installed Rizoma Handlebar Turn Signals (2 wires Red & Black). The Rizoma wires pair with the Indian Front Turn Signals as follows: Rizoma Black to Indian Blue, and Rizoma Red to Indian Brown. This results in fully operational front turn signals. Then I paired a misc. solo wire to the front Indian Right "Blue" Turn Signal Wire and connected that solo wire to the Rear Right Large Relay (5 post). This results in fully operational brake light (hand and foot), running light, amber turn signals that operate in perfect unison with the front signal blinkers.
6) I suggest investing in the following supplies shown in the first picture.
Protective wire heat-shrink tubing, 12 gauge misc wire, 2- reed relays, 2- low-signal relays,
RTV Silicone, Camtek wiring connectors ( 120 pc shown but suggest ordering larger quantity since I ran out of the smallest sized).
Seriously, if not for the Camtek wire connectors this was a complete s*@t show as seen in the second picture. It shows the first attempt with relays and wiring using only soldering and existing male/female connectors. Then it shows the Camtek connectors versatility. The third picture is an overview of everything used. The fourth picture is the final method used which incorporates the previous supplies and I found to be most secure against all the riding elements. The fifth picture is everything zip tied before hiding all wiring back in the bike in the battery area. The six picture is the final product. I will upload video evidence of operational lights when I figure out how on this site.

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Apologies for the delay, but after a few attempts the 18 Scout Bobber w/ABS is back up and running. Big thank you to everyone that collectively made this happen. I will do my best to explain or answer any questions and also post pictures that might help. To recap, I completely stripped the rear of the bike to include losing the rear subframe, all lights, everything. The finished product has 1) LED Flex light strip that has 5 wires (Black, White, Red, Green, Yellow). Additionally, I installed 10'' ape hanger handlebars with Rizoma bar end turn signals. Rear quarter fender and frame insert are from Tank Machine - Accessoire moto, scooter, suzuki vanvan, bmw nine-t, casque, antivol, jantes, phare, bagagerie, poignets - Tankmachine
Reference posts #130, 149, 165
1) Begin with reviewing all conversations in the thread "Has anyone wired led strip to a bobber or aftermarket lights?".
2) I used the wiring diagram provided by #djcutandpaste in post #130 - US Bobber to Rizoma Rear Lights, Red for Brake an Amber for Turn.
3) Since I only used the LED flex light strip for the rear which is described as option 1 in post #149, the wiring only required a total of 4 relays. Again post #130 identifies the 2 different types of relays needed (links are provided in post #130). My Advice is ordering extras, this application only requires 2 - G6E-134P-US DC12 (Low Signal Relays - PCB Low Signal Relay 12VDC), and 2 - SHV12-1A85-78L4K (Reed Relays REED RELAY SPST 1A 12V), however, I went through 6 each (Yes, I ended up having to redo the wiring 3 times). Additionally, try ordering from either Mouser Electronics or Digikey.
4) Following the awesome wiring diagrams provided by "djcutandpaste" and solid advice from other members like "riteonjohn", "Quangtungnguyen" & "daveholl" on how to wire "US Bobber (2018) to Rizoma rear lights, Red for Brake and Amber for Turn" I have substituted the Rizoma rear lights to a LED Flex Strip (5 wires; Red, Black, White, Green "Right side", and Yellow "Left side") that operates as "Brake, Running, Left Turn, Right Turn".
For clarification going forward for everyone the front signal wires are as follows: Indian Front Right Wires are Blue and Brown. The same with the Left Front Wires: Indian Blue, and Brown. I installed Rizoma Handlebar Turn Signals (2 wires Red & Black). The Rizoma wires pair with the Indian Front Turn Signals as follows: Rizoma Black to Indian Blue, and Rizoma Red to Indian Brown. This results in fully operational front turn signals. Then I paired a misc. solo wire to the front Indian Right "Blue" Turn Signal Wire and connected that solo wire to the Rear Right Large Relay (5 post). This results in fully operational brake light (hand and foot), running light, amber turn signals that operate in perfect unison with the front signal blinkers.
6) I suggest investing in the following supplies shown in the first picture.
Protective wire heat-shrink tubing, 12 gauge misc wire, 2- reed relays, 2- low-signal relays,
RTV Silicone, Camtek wiring connectors ( 120 pc shown but suggest ordering larger quantity since I ran out of the smallest sized).
Seriously, if not for the Camtek wire connectors this was a complete s*@t show as seen in the second picture. It shows the first attempt with relays and wiring using only soldering and existing male/female connectors. Then it shows the Camtek connectors versatility. The third picture is an overview of everything used. The fourth picture is the final method used which incorporates the previous supplies and I found to be most secure against all the riding elements. The fifth picture is everything zip tied before hiding all wiring back in the bike in the battery area. The six picture is the final product. I will upload video evidence of operational lights when I figure out how on this site.

View attachment 460728
View attachment 460734
View attachment 460736
View attachment 460740
View attachment 460742
View attachment 460756
Great write-up. Sharp bike.
 
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Apologies for the delay, but after a few attempts the 18 Scout Bobber w/ABS is back up and running. Big thank you to everyone that collectively made this happen. I will do my best to explain or answer any questions and also post pictures that might help. To recap, I completely stripped the rear of the bike to include losing the rear subframe, all lights, everything. The finished product has 1) LED Flex light strip that has 5 wires (Black, White, Red, Green, Yellow). Additionally, I installed 10'' ape hanger handlebars with Rizoma bar end turn signals. Rear quarter fender and frame insert are from Tank Machine - Accessoire moto, scooter, suzuki vanvan, bmw nine-t, casque, antivol, jantes, phare, bagagerie, poignets - Tankmachine
Reference posts #130, 149, 165
1) Begin with reviewing all conversations in the thread "Has anyone wired led strip to a bobber or aftermarket lights?".
2) I used the wiring diagram provided by #djcutandpaste in post #130 - US Bobber to Rizoma Rear Lights, Red for Brake an Amber for Turn.
3) Since I only used the LED flex light strip for the rear which is described as option 1 in post #149, the wiring only required a total of 4 relays. Again post #130 identifies the 2 different types of relays needed (links are provided in post #130). My Advice is ordering extras, this application only requires 2 - G6E-134P-US DC12 (Low Signal Relays - PCB Low Signal Relay 12VDC), and 2 - SHV12-1A85-78L4K (Reed Relays REED RELAY SPST 1A 12V), however, I went through 6 each (Yes, I ended up having to redo the wiring 3 times). Additionally, try ordering from either Mouser Electronics or Digikey.
4) Following the awesome wiring diagrams provided by "djcutandpaste" and solid advice from other members like "riteonjohn", "Quangtungnguyen" & "daveholl" on how to wire "US Bobber (2018) to Rizoma rear lights, Red for Brake and Amber for Turn" I have substituted the Rizoma rear lights to a LED Flex Strip (5 wires; Red, Black, White, Green "Right side", and Yellow "Left side") that operates as "Brake, Running, Left Turn, Right Turn".
For clarification going forward for everyone the front signal wires are as follows: Indian Front Right Wires are Blue and Brown. The same with the Left Front Wires: Indian Blue, and Brown. I installed Rizoma Handlebar Turn Signals (2 wires Red & Black). The Rizoma wires pair with the Indian Front Turn Signals as follows: Rizoma Black to Indian Blue, and Rizoma Red to Indian Brown. This results in fully operational front turn signals. Then I paired a misc. solo wire to the front Indian Right "Blue" Turn Signal Wire and connected that solo wire to the Rear Right Large Relay (5 post). This results in fully operational brake light (hand and foot), running light, amber turn signals that operate in perfect unison with the front signal blinkers.
6) I suggest investing in the following supplies shown in the first picture.
Protective wire heat-shrink tubing, 12 gauge misc wire, 2- reed relays, 2- low-signal relays,
RTV Silicone, Camtek wiring connectors ( 120 pc shown but suggest ordering larger quantity since I ran out of the smallest sized).
Seriously, if not for the Camtek wire connectors this was a complete s*@t show as seen in the second picture. It shows the first attempt with relays and wiring using only soldering and existing male/female connectors. Then it shows the Camtek connectors versatility. The third picture is an overview of everything used. The fourth picture is the final method used which incorporates the previous supplies and I found to be most secure against all the riding elements. The fifth picture is everything zip tied before hiding all wiring back in the bike in the battery area. The six picture is the final product. I will upload video evidence of operational lights when I figure out how on this site.

View attachment 460728
View attachment 460734
View attachment 460736
View attachment 460740
View attachment 460742
View attachment 460756
I just posted asking if someone made a rear fender that hugged the tire and I come across your post. Bike looks awesome.

Did you purchase that fender online or is it custom (or both)?

Lower profile, closer to the wheel rear fender...
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...the-wheel-rear-fender....304620/&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just posted asking if someone made a rear fender that hugged the tire and I come across your post. Bike looks awesome.

Did you purchase that fender online or is it custom (or both)?

Lower profile, closer to the wheel rear fender...
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=114897&share_tid=304620&url=https://www.indianmotorcycles.net/index.php?threads/Lower-profile,-closer-to-the-wheel-rear-fender....304620/&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The rear quarter fender and another part is direct from Paris, France company called Tank Machine - Accessoire moto, scooter, suzuki vanvan, bmw nine-t, casque, antivol, jantes, phare, bagagerie, poignets - Tankmachine
Must open their website using Google because the server will translate the website's information. Also, if you order and receive delivery, the included instructions are really well done, but only come in the French language.
 

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Apologies for the delay, but after a few attempts the 18 Scout Bobber w/ABS is back up and running. Big thank you to everyone that collectively made this happen. I will do my best to explain or answer any questions and also post pictures that might help. To recap, I completely stripped the rear of the bike to include losing the rear subframe, all lights, everything. The finished product has 1) LED Flex light strip that has 5 wires (Black, White, Red, Green, Yellow). Additionally, I installed 10'' ape hanger handlebars with Rizoma bar end turn signals. Rear quarter fender and frame insert are from Tank Machine - Accessoire moto, scooter, suzuki vanvan, bmw nine-t, casque, antivol, jantes, phare, bagagerie, poignets - Tankmachine



Reference posts #130, 149, 165
1) Begin with reviewing all conversations in the thread "Has anyone wired led strip to a bobber or aftermarket lights?".
2) I used the wiring diagram provided by #djcutandpaste in post #130 - US Bobber to Rizoma Rear Lights, Red for Brake an Amber for Turn.
3) Since I only used the LED flex light strip for the rear which is described as option 1 in post #149, the wiring only required a total of 4 relays. Again post #130 identifies the 2 different types of relays needed (links are provided in post #130). My Advice is ordering extras, this application only requires 2 - G6E-134P-US DC12 (Low Signal Relays - PCB Low Signal Relay 12VDC), and 2 - SHV12-1A85-78L4K (Reed Relays REED RELAY SPST 1A 12V), however, I went through 6 each (Yes, I ended up having to redo the wiring 3 times). Additionally, try ordering from either Mouser Electronics or Digikey.
4) Following the awesome wiring diagrams provided by "djcutandpaste" and solid advice from other members like "riteonjohn", "Quangtungnguyen" & "daveholl" on how to wire "US Bobber (2018) to Rizoma rear lights, Red for Brake and Amber for Turn" I have substituted the Rizoma rear lights to a LED Flex Strip (5 wires; Red, Black, White, Green "Right side", and Yellow "Left side") that operates as "Brake, Running, Left Turn, Right Turn".
For clarification going forward for everyone the front signal wires are as follows: Indian Front Right Wires are Blue and Brown. The same with the Left Front Wires: Indian Blue, and Brown. I installed Rizoma Handlebar Turn Signals (2 wires Red & Black). The Rizoma wires pair with the Indian Front Turn Signals as follows: Rizoma Black to Indian Blue, and Rizoma Red to Indian Brown. This results in fully operational front turn signals. Then I paired a misc. solo wire to the front Indian Right "Blue" Turn Signal Wire and connected that solo wire to the Rear Right Large Relay (5 post). This results in fully operational brake light (hand and foot), running light, amber turn signals that operate in perfect unison with the front signal blinkers.
6) I suggest investing in the following supplies shown in the first picture.
Protective wire heat-shrink tubing, 12 gauge misc wire, 2- reed relays, 2- low-signal relays,
RTV Silicone, Camtek wiring connectors ( 120 pc shown but suggest ordering larger quantity since I ran out of the smallest sized).
Seriously, if not for the Camtek wire connectors this was a complete s*@t show as seen in the second picture. It shows the first attempt with relays and wiring using only soldering and existing male/female connectors. Then it shows the Camtek connectors versatility. The third picture is an overview of everything used. The fourth picture is the final method used which incorporates the previous supplies and I found to be most secure against all the riding elements. The fifth picture is everything zip tied before hiding all wiring back in the bike in the battery area. The six picture is the final product. I will upload video evidence of operational lights when I figure out how on this site.

View attachment 460728
View attachment 460734
View attachment 460736
View attachment 460740
View attachment 460742
View attachment 460756
Did you use a heat gun with the camtex or something else
 

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The rear quarter fender and another part is direct from Paris, France company called Tank Machine - Accessoire moto, scooter, suzuki vanvan, bmw nine-t, casque, antivol, jantes, phare, bagagerie, poignets - Tankmachine
Must open their website using Google because the server will translate the website's information. Also, if you order and receive delivery, the included instructions are really well done, but only come in the French language.
That rear fender is sweet! But at 979 euros ($1117.00 not including shipping) it's a bit rich for me.

Beautiful Scouts pictured on the Tank Machine website!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That rear fender is sweet! But at 979 euros ($1117.00 not including shipping) it's a bit rich for me.

Beautiful Scouts pictured on the Tank Machine website!
I completely agree, the Scouts on Tank Machine website are solid, and it is definitely over-priced. But great customer service, I had to speak with "William" twice concerning my order, and the team at Tank Machine were immediate and prompt in their service. Will order again but need to win the lottery first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did you use a heat gun with the camtex or something else
Crap, So Sorry I guess I forgot to mention specialty tools and the such. Yes! I ended up purchasing an actual heat-gun for shrink-wrapping my wiring, and it works perfectly with the Camtek parts. Again, if ordering Camtek assorted size pack (Amazon), I would order a larger size than what I had used. I ran out of the smallest sized "white" ones towards the end of the final assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just posted asking if someone made a rear fender that hugged the tire and I come across your post. Bike looks awesome.

Did you purchase that fender online or is it custom (or both)?

Lower profile, closer to the wheel rear fender...
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=114897&share_tid=304620&url=https://www.indianmotorcycles.net/index.php?threads/Lower-profile,-closer-to-the-wheel-rear-fender....304620/&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It is a custom rear quarter fender designed for the Scout line. The company is called Tank Machine and they are located in Paris, France. When using a search engine us Google because it will translate the Tank Machine website from French to English.
 

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Crap, So Sorry I guess I forgot to mention specialty tools and the such. Yes! I ended up purchasing an actual heat-gun for shrink-wrapping my wiring, and it works perfectly with the Camtek parts. Again, if ordering Camtek assorted size pack (Amazon), I would order a larger size than what I had used. I ran out of the smallest sized "white" ones towards the end of the final assembly.
I ended up ordering the 240 count pack and heat gun . Thanks for your advice . I have been thinking there had to be a better way to make the connection on the relays other then just using solder
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I ended up ordering the 240 count pack and heat gun . Thanks for your advice . I have been thinking there had to be a better way to make the connection on the relays other then just using solder
Good call. Best of luck. Any questions just ask.
 

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Crap, So Sorry I guess I forgot to mention specialty tools and the such. Yes! I ended up purchasing an actual heat-gun for shrink-wrapping my wiring, and it works perfectly with the Camtek parts. Again, if ordering Camtek assorted size pack (Amazon), I would order a larger size than what I had used. I ran out of the smallest sized "white" ones towards the end of the final assembly.
Parts you recommended should arrive today .Will be doing my wiring over the next few days
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Parts you recommended should arrive today .Will be doing my wiring over the next few days
Best of luck, do yourself the favor and do a mock-up or rough version making sure that lights function as desired. I ended up redoing my wiring 3 or 4 times until I got it exactly right. And incorporate heat-shrink tubing immediately. I ended up cutting down a new bike tube into a kinda rubber pocket that i stuffed final wiring into
 

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Best of luck, do yourself the favor and do a mock-up or rough version making sure that lights function as desired. I ended up redoing my wiring 3 or 4 times until I got it exactly right. And incorporate heat-shrink tubing immediately. I ended up cutting down a new bike tube into a kinda rubber pocket that i stuffed final wiring into
Front lights finished but Looking at the relays the pins are short and not long enough to reach the solder in the middle of the camtex connectors. Did you use the camtex connectors to connect your wire directly to the relay ? It looks like I would need to cut one end of the camtex so the pin on the relay will reach the solder. Is this what you did or something different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Front lights finished but Looking at the relays the pins are short and not long enough to reach the solder in the middle of the camtex connectors. Did you use the camtex connectors to connect your wire directly to the relay? It looks like I would need to cut one end of the camtex so the pin on the relay will reach the solder. Is this what you did or something different.
My method was the result of trial and error roughly 3 times. The best method was to first cut small lengths of wire (using the misc wire) I ended up cutting about 3-4 inch pieces. Then I stripped one side about a half of an inch. The opposite side is cut flush. I then used the cut flush side and pushed it down into the relay post. Basically, the relay post just gets inserted into the wire. I found it was easiest to first attach all connectors to the relays using the Camtex connectors and clear silicone. See picture #2 in previous post, it shows wires with flush cut ends, and other connectors. I never was too worried about the metal center solder point located in the Camtex connector. There may have been a few times when I clipped down the camtex connector but otherwise the method I used worked for me.
 

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My method was the result of trial and error roughly 3 times. The best method was to first cut small lengths of wire (using the misc wire) I ended up cutting about 3-4 inch pieces. Then I stripped one side about a half of an inch. The opposite side is cut flush. I then used the cut flush side and pushed it down into the relay post. Basically, the relay post just gets inserted into the wire. I found it was easiest to first attach all connectors to the relays using the Camtex connectors and clear silicone. See picture #2 in previous post, it shows wires with flush cut ends, and other connectors. I never was too worried about the metal center solder point located in the Camtex connector. There may have been a few times when I clipped down the camtex connector but otherwise the method I used worked for me.
If I'm reading this right you pushed an unstriped wire over the rely post with a camtex over that . The relay and wire are not soldered together using the camtex. Is the cured silicon preventing the wire from coming off the relay ? If Im reading this right the Camtex is not really doing anything.

Could I not just push an unstriped wire into the relay post and add silicon to hold it. Am I missing something
 
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