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Hi,
We have a 2009 indian cheif that has been having some major issues this spring. We have exhausted our knowledge and skills and dont have a dealer up here in western canada for the kingsmountain years. North Carolina dealer we bought it from wasnt much help over the phone so we are hoping some of you can lend your expertise.
Intermittently the bike starts but the starter doesnt disengage and we have to pull the wire going to the starter from the bcm. Then the engine won't shut off, kill switch doesnt work and ignition doesnt work. Have to pull a battery cable to kill it. It only wont shut off on the times it doesnt start properly, other times it will start and shut off fine. We had issues last fall and this spring so unfortunately the details of what went when are a bit fuzzy.
Last summer we were having issues with the starter so we followed the diagnostics in the service manual and found the bcm to be faulty, (it started perfectly when we bypassed it) so we ordered a new bcm and put it in. The starting problems had fried the starter so we replaced it with a heavy duty starter. (Bike has almost always had hard starts so we hoped the heavier starter would fix that)Then it was end of riding season up here so parked her for the winter without many hours on the new bcm and starter.
This year we had the issue I described above with the starter continuing to run and then bike wont shut off. To try to fix it we have done the following: We cleaned the handlebar start switch and tested the resistance, getting what service manual says. We replaced the ignition switch. Cleaned and checked all the grounds we could find. Replaced the battery to one with 330 cca as we discovered we were running too small a battery and wondered if we were getting inductance some how. Replaced the positive and negative battery cables with 4g cables. Replaced the buss fuse cause we couldn't get it to trip when warm. Tested the voltage regulator and it's good. The stator test is showing one phase with low output so its prob going but I dont see how this relates to starting and battery is still getting a charge when bike is on. The cps leads have been loose a few times so we recrimped and tightened them. The clutch switch broke last year but from what we can see this shouldn't affect anything, just means we have to be careful the bike isnt in gear when we start.
We think it's the bcm that's faulty but because we cant be sure that we weren't having these issues before the new bcm we want to see if there is anything else it could be. It's an $800 part and they wont warranty the last one because it's been longer than 90 days(even though we cant ride all winter here)
Any ideas you guys have would be much appreciated. Bike has 86000kms on it so she owes us nothing but this sure is frustrating!!!
Cheers,
Jen and rob
 

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Have you replaced the starter solenoid ? Or is it integral with the starter.. A faulty one will sometimes not disengage properly.
If the engine uses a crank position sensor or a mag pickup on the flywheel it may use that to determine if its running. It may use the oil press sender for the same thing, If the brain can't see the engine is running it will keep trying to start it.
Also, I would check to see if the starter drive is physically hanging up and getting stuck.
 

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Have you replaced the starter solenoid ? Or is it integral with the starter.. A faulty one will sometimes not disengage properly.
If the engine uses a crank position sensor or a mag pickup on the flywheel it may use that to determine if its running. It may use the oil press sender for the same thing, If the brain can't see the engine is running it will keep trying to start it.
Also, I would check to see if the starter drive is physically hanging up and getting stuck.
This plus 1. Given that you installed a "heavy duty" starter, it may be that the starter is a little too much for the bike and is getting hung up during and after the start sequence.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have you replaced the starter solenoid ? Or is it integral with the starter.. A faulty one will sometimes not disengage properly.
If the engine uses a crank position sensor or a mag pickup on the flywheel it may use that to determine if its running. It may use the oil press sender for the same thing, If the brain can't see the engine is running it will keep trying to start it.
Also, I would check to see if the starter drive is physically hanging up and getting stuck.
Solenoid is integrated but is new with the starter and the old starter was having problems too so dont think it's that. We will pull the primary cover and check for binding with the jack shaft and will recheck sensors. Thanks.
 

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Good luck. Try to see if you can get it to do it again, but have a meter or test light on the solenoid trigger wire terminal and see if it's energized when the problem occurs.
Worse comes to worse you might be able to interrupt the solenoid trigger wire with a two terminal normally closed oil pressure switch so when the engine is running the solenoid trigger circut is open and can't energize the starter.
More of a "plan B" solution, but it should work :cool:
 

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Good luck. Try to see if you can get it to do it again, but have a meter or test light on the solenoid trigger wire terminal and see if it's energized when the problem occurs.
Worse comes to worse you might be able to interrupt the solenoid trigger wire with a two terminal normally closed oil pressure switch so when the engine is running the solenoid trigger circut is open and can't energize the starter.
More of a "plan B" solution, but it should work :cool:
Great ideas, thanks again.
 

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From what you're describing,it sounds like the handle bar switch itself could be faulty.Have you replaced or tested that ??? After being in the trade for the last 100 years [atleast it sometimes feels that way,lol] sometimes the problem is simple and right there in front of ya,but ya get so involved that you wouldn't see it if it jumped out and bit ya in the ass.lol Been there and done that TOO MANY TIMES over the years!! lol lol

So try using a good digital volt meter to measure that circuits' voltage and see if ya have it where it's needed.
 

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Ain't that the truth. Sometimes it's the simple things
Now, to J.Funk, I thought of another possibility but not being familiar with the KM years I have a question... Does the handlebar switch engage the start solenoid directly ( like an older bike )or does it tell the brain to start the bike and the brain (engine control unit ) signals the starter and then disengages it when the engine is started (like a newer bike or car) When it's acting normally , if you were to release the starter button when it's cranking does it quit trying to start right away (like an old bike ) or will it crank until it starts even with the button released. (like the new ones)
If it's the newer type then the brain is looking for some indication that it's running so that it knows when to disengage the starter. Usually a crank position sensor, to measure RPM, an oil pressure sensor or, it looks for DC output from the alternator.
If your bike is the newer type that low stator phase output problem that you have may be tricking the ECU into "thinking" that the engine isn't running when it really is. Then it would keep the starter engaged trying to start it. It might also refuse to shut the engine down because it "thinks" that it's already off.

Or you could be right to suspect that the new BCM is faulty, I'd want to check the connector for that VERY closely too.

If the bike is the older type, then it's most likely a sticky or faulty switch, solenoid , starter drive or a wiring fault (two wiring conductors intermittently touching etc...)

electrical problems can be frustrating.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
From what you're describing,it sounds like the handle bar switch itself could be faulty.Have you replaced or tested that ??? After being in the trade for the last 100 years [atleast it sometimes feels that way,lol] sometimes the problem is simple and right there in front of ya,but ya get so involved that you wouldn't see it if it jumped out and bit ya in the ass.lol Been there and done that TOO MANY TIMES over the years!! lol lol

So try using a good digital volt meter to measure that circuits' voltage and see if ya have it where it's needed.
Yup! We thought the same so did test the start switch on the handle and got .46ohms with it depressed, the manual said rage should be between .4 and 1 so I think that means it's good.
 

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Yup! We thought the same so did test the start switch on the handle and got .46ohms with it depressed, the manual said rage should be between .4 and 1 so I think that means it's good.
Range not rage...
 
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