[K9F]

We both sing off the same song sheet Frank. 👍

As stated it may help others!

 

[Frank White]

Well, handlebars are done. I will silicone after I install the bars and know everything is working. I tested the lights. Tomorrow I will test the heated grips, continuity on the switches and such if possible. Anyone have the pinouts handy? Either way I will not know fully until I can actually test them all out with the running bike. If they do not work I think I am going commit Seppuku. The clutch side was the real nightmare with all the extra gadgets. I couldn't add the 2 button Motogadget switch on the Front Brake side because the Beach bars go to 1" and get fatter right after the brake lever clamp and there is no room for it. I will have to hide it somewhere else on a small powder coated pipe mounted somewhere hidden. Below is a few pictures of the end result off the bike.

 

[K9F]

Nice one Frank,

'Hollywoods' I love the styling but unfortunately due to my speedo relocation and billet housing forward of the bars they weren't an option but I still love 'em. Quite a bit of cabling you've got there. Make sure you've got enough room underneath your risers/clamps for the cabling to sit snugly. Even mine is a very tight fit with the main stem nut under there, or you may have to raise the bars 1/2" or so.

 

[Frank White]

So, in another post I had a question but figured it out on my own. Today I prepared my forks for chrome removal by removing the swaged hydraulic lock inside the bottom which is factory pressed and rolled over. Now these can never be used with factory hardware. I will be getting K-Tech cartridges like @K9F due to this removal process. I should have them back in a week then they will be getting sent to Texas for the SBN/QPQ (Black) treatment and I am hoping I will have the cartridges from K-Tech ready and waiting to be assembled. Here are a few pictures showing what I removed and after polishing etc.

 

[Frank White]

Sorry not many updates lately as I have been busy with many things in life. Lately I modified 2 brackets from another model for covering the thermostat and former ignition cover that no longer exists. These will be sent to powder coater soon along with the other parts. I started making my rear fender support but had purchased stainless rods, and threaded rod. Even with special tools the stainless was far too hard for me to tap easily so I ordered some mild steel being they are getting powder coated anyhow. My thoughts for going with the stainless originally was if I ever got a chip the underlying metal would not rust easily. The mild steel will be far easier to work with. Tuesday the stuff comes and I should have the bracket done by Wednesday.

I made my 3rd brake light under seat bracket today. I just slapped it together to get all the markings for where the holes need to be drilled and took some pictures so this is not a final result. This will be sent for powder coating as well. Below are a few photos showing the bracket but show the mock up LED as well. Remember this is not a finished product!

Tomorrow I will be working on a light switch bracket for the 007 motorized plate & the bracket for the motor mount itself. I will also modify the front headlight through hole on the front tree and mock up the fitting of my new headlight so I can add those parts to the powder coater list. Just trying to get all the parts fabricated asap so I can send out for powder and get her back on the road sooner. More pictures to come!

 

[Zolkalf]

It's a process for sure. Your gonna love the Beach bars. Love watching these builds and can't wait to see it when it's done.

 

[Frank White]

Update time!!! Did some more work today on the rear fender struts and other projects regarding the bike build. I need the little stuff out of the way so I can send to powder coater. Here is the OEM fender struts I made and started mocking up and getting ready to start bending them so the contour around the caliper and the sprocket etc. First I have to make 2 simple brackets to hold the front part of the fender to the swing arm, and then I can start the bending. I also need to drill out the eyelets on the bottom to allow the bolt head to sink in more.

This is a M12 Threaded rod I cut down and tapped with a M6 hole. I then put some blue loctite and sunk flush.

Here are to 10mm solid mild steel rods that I mounted little eyelets that had drilled into the rod and sunk a M5 threaded rod into that now fits perfectly together & almost seamless. I have to enlarge that hole on the eyelets on both so the bolt face sinks in more flush. I grinded the one side of each eyelet to accommodate the larger shock casting.

Here is a mockup of the OEM fender with the unbent strut I made just holding it by hand for display. As you can see the other side is Not attached as the strut needs to be bent far more than the right side of the bike.

 

[Frank White]

Here are 2 shift and brake pegs that had Harley SAE threads of 5/16-24 and our bikes have M8-1.25 threads. They do not seem to make a conversion and I did not want to change the bike or the pegs. So I made the threads on an already made rod I bought. The M6 threads there need to be lengthened but I am waiting for a die of that size. once done I will add a flathead slot so I can time them into the position I want them in and then use blue loctite to fix them in place.

 

[Frank White]

I bought spikes that I wanted to fit onto the bike. Some older Scout Bobbers had a solid axle I think or different ones at some point. These spikes were well made but poorly designed IMO but they are not made for Indians. These were Harley once again. On my bike I have a axle bolt head of like 3/4" but it is really shallow, and the nut is a fuji nut that is over 1". So these spikes did not fit. I took a 1/4" steel rod and threaded the ends to 1/4-20 with a die. Then I cut a 1" round of aluminum about 3/4" for each side and tapped a 1/40-20 thread into them centered. I am awaiting nylon grommets I will make to fit inside the axle on both sides to keep the 2 metals from being in contact and to keep things centered. I still need to mill the inside of one spike a bit to accommodate the fuji nut. I will also tap 2 more set screws in the spikes for added security as well as on each of the 1" aluminum round disks to allow them to lock onto the threaded rod I made.

Here are the spikes being held together on the axle. The Square alignment washers will be powder coated black as well as the set screws turned black.

 

[Frank White]

Here is a partially made light bracket that needs to be drilled and tapped into the seat but I needed to make the 007 license plate flipper motor bracket under the seat before making the light bracket mounting holes into the seat pan. This license plate bracket is made from square tube and has a hole through it to allow the license plate motor slip into it and allow a solid surface for the single bolt it has. Once again not really made for my bike and I had to adapt. These will also be powder coated black. I had to lower the license plate by using the talled square tube as it needed to clear the LED lights and not block the light emitting out of them. I will probably sneak in a white license plate centered there as well. The picture was flipped to show what it would look like if you were peeking underneath the seat from behind.

 

[mark.lb]

Here is a partially made light bracket that needs to be drilled and tapped into the seat but I needed to make the 007 license plate flipper motor bracket under the seat before making the light bracket mounting holes into the seat pan. This license plate bracket is made from square tube and has a hole through it to allow the license plate motor slip into it and allow a solid surface for the single bolt it has. Once again not really made for my bike and I had to adapt. These will also be powder coated black. I had to lower the license plate by using the talled square tube as it needed to clear the LED lights and not block the light emitting out of them. I will probably sneak in a white license plate centered there as well. The picture was flipped to show what it would look like if you were peeking underneath the seat from behind.

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Nice work Frank. You mechanical/fabrication skills are way above my pay grade!

 

[Zolkalf]

I bought spikes that I wanted to fit onto the bike. Some older Scout Bobbers had a solid axle I think or different ones at some point. These spikes were well made but poorly designed IMO but they are not made for Indians. These were Harley once again. On my bike I have a axle bolt head of like 3/4" but it is really shallow, and the nut is a fuji nut that is over 1". So these spikes did not fit. I took a 1/4" steel rod and threaded the ends to 1/4-20 with a die. Then I cut a 1" round of aluminum about 3/4" for each side and tapped a 1/40-20 thread into them centered. I am awaiting nylon grommets I will make to fit inside the axle on both sides to keep the 2 metals from being in contact and to keep things centered. I still need to mill the inside of one spike a bit to accommodate the fuji nut. I will also tap 2 more set screws in the spikes for added security as well as on each of the 1" aluminum round disks to allow them to lock onto the threaded rod I made.
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Here are the spikes being held together on the axle. The Square alignment washers will be powder coated black as well as the set screws turned black.
View attachment 735141

The spikes are cool! My left alignment washer is Black and I needed to dot it with a white sharpie to be able to see the detent markings to get the tire square as I couldn't see it very well. Looking great so far Frank. Keep the updates coming.

 

[Frank White]

Nice work Frank. You mechanical/fabrication skills are way above my pay grade!

I wish I had a mill & a lathe as I would be better. Right now I am working like a cave-man. Powder coating will hide my not so perfect things well. Anyone can do what I am doing. All I did was think it up and apply logic, buy the items I needed, and used some of the tools I already had. I cut a lot of the aluminum with a hand saw, drilled holes by eye, and sanded by hand. Mistakes happen but then you get better and more efficient. It just takes patience, time, and dedication to doing something with your own hands.

 

[K9F]

There are very few people about today that have 'skill of hand techniques.' Often so called 'Metal Fabricators' if they can't press 'enter' on a computer and let the machine do the work for them they are stuffed. Well done Frank. I am of the same ilk and like to think a little outside the box and do the work myself if possible.

 

[Frank White]

Finishing the parts I shown hopefully over this weekend and will be starting today. Thanks for the kind words. I am sorry I am not giving better pictures as I am trying to mask the bike until I am able to reveal it and I hopefully will be videoing the whole assembly so better looking parts once cleaned and powder coated will produce a more comfortable me with showing off my work. People don’t think this is considered a custom bike. I beg to differ. Haha. Thanks

 

[K9F]

Don’t sweat it Frank, it doesn’t matter what other people think! Go tell ‘em to “Kiss your swingers!” 🤣

 

[Frank White]

So, I was going to be simple and just make some cheap angle iron brackets for the front part of the rear fend where it meets the swingarm but I changed my mind. I know I will not be happy with the result. I made a cardboard template as shown below. Below that photo will be another showing the rear fender resting upon the cardboard. The stock fender has almost like 2 fangs that come out lower and a fairly flat part between them. These "fangs" are the only part that makes contact. I was going to attach with a nut a bolt through 2 small drilled holes into a small angle bracket on each fang. The brackets would be secured to the swingarm. So my idea is getting a solid block of some ABS or any other suggested material that may work better. If anyone has any experience. The thickness of said material will be 1.5" in height and 2" in depth and be about 1' long left to right. I can slowly shave it into shape but was thinking if I made a block of wood with that same curve and secured to piece of plywood I may be able to put the ABS billet into the oven for a while and take out then bend to the shape of that radius. Then just have to cut the sides to the proper dimension and I wouldn't have to sand so much. Then my idea is that the height would be about 3/4" higher than the middle flat part between the "fangs". I would then just have to trace out the shape of the fender and the rough thickness of it onto the block I formed. Then make a jig with wood and router out the shape of the fender at the top face of the block. I would make the center shallow so the flat between the "fangs" is resting on the block and the ends deeper so the "fangs" have their own deep pocket. The block would be secured with 2 small holes tapped into the aluminum swingarm and affixed with blue locktite, and the fender would be secured to the abs block with either nut and bold or I can make a slot for a slot nut and sort of pinch or squeeze the fender without having to drill any holes into the fender. Mind you I am trying to avoid having the fender paint or metal damaged from OEM if I can help. If I ever want to go back to a stock fender I can. Here are the shots.

 

[K9F]

Good work Frank,

Similar setup I have on mine for the rear fender. After the swing arm was widened and strengthened a plate was made onto which the curved fender bracket was welded. Four holes were then drilled (indicated by red arrows) to mount the whole assembly to the swing arm reinforced portion. There will never be any rolling back for me as this project was always was a one way trip.

 

[Frank White]

I am going to get some clay tomorrow or plaster of Paris. I am going to make a mould of that sunken in section. Then I am getting a billet of the niced finish and machinable ABS or HDPE I can use a router bit meant for wood & plastics that does a 90* Degree with a chamfered edge. I will make a cardboard cutout that fits smoothly on the opposite curves and such to use as a guide for doing the "face cuts" on the wood templates. Then use 2 piece of wood clamped down on the plastic to do those face cuts & the plunge cuts at different depths for the fender to slip inside it. It will make more sense once I start uploading pictures. Then I will have to start bending the rods once the front of the fender is secured and centered on the wheel. I will likely cry if I screw the bends up but I should be ok. I am not a machinist, and just trying to use my engineering and mechanical knowhow to get sh!t done the only ways available to me.

 

[Zolkalf]

The plaster of Paris is a good idea. I contemplated making a mold on my rear tire wrapping it in plastic with plaster of Paris and then buying a 55 gallon trash bin. Cutting the bin and then heating it to form to the plaster of Paris mold for a fender.
That being said for my bikes intentions and purpose I like the fenderless look and the rear fender is something I might toy with down the road.
I like your ideas and creativity of what your doing and it's gonna be a bad mama-jama when you get it done.
And really? For someone who said this isn't a custom build.....They need to put the pipe down!
Looking forward to your updates.
Z