[mark.lb]

Very nice build Zolkalf! It is great watching you build your dream machine. Well done.
I built my Scout last winter (2022). It was a blast riding it this summer and fall. This is Plain Jane!

 

[Zolkalf]

Very nice build Zolkalf! It is great watching you build your dream machine. Well done.
I built my Scout last winter (2022). It was a blast riding it this summer and fall. This is Plain Jane!

Thanks mark.lb. It's been a labor of love for sure. Plain Jane looks great stock but we all know what she has in her. Love it! Maybe one day The Bruiser can wear the 1300 badge.
I called Revolution a Month or so ago and on one page they had the BBK for 1200 and on another page I think it was 1600 and I asked them what was up, what one was it?
They had just raised the price to 1600 and the 1200 price page hadn't been updated yet. I was like Wow....400 would have been a nice start towards labor costs. Maybe one day.
Thanks for stopping by bringing "Plain Jane" and the comments
View attachment 719411 View attachment 719409 View attachment 719410

 

[Zolkalf]

2023...wow,
Just a couple little things going on. Shift Koncepts got back with me and he did mention that the Metzler was a little flatter than the Avon but the difference didn't require making a new fender. Good news for SK. Like I said I will wait until more of these get out in the wild and been run through the ringer before I commit to buying one.

My Vanity plate came in and finally the Bruiser has it's name. The guy who has the plate with the "U" is still holding tight but I will be checking from time to time

Recently I been swapping out and covering the the bolts and just have 4 more to take care of. The 15mm right under the seat. I ordered a kit of M6-M8-M10 ect and was able to get most of them and some I didn't plan on so it worked out. Here are a few pics of the bolt swap and covers.

A before and after Picture

Next I am tossing around getting a duel zone LED kit. I like the idea of the LED's in the zone switching to Red when you apply the brake since I have 2 little specs of brake lights currently in back.
Yes, they are bright but that's when you are directly behind them. The kit I am looking at I think is a little on the spendy side but it has the features that I would want. Hazards flash, Duel zones, Brake options, low voltage shut off and can be used with the remote or smart phone. Here is the link LEDGLOW If you know of any others with similar features hit me up.
That's about it. Hope you all had a good Holidays and thanks for stopping by.
Z

 

[Ijeepnaked]

Looks damn good. Got a link to the bolt kit?

 

[Zolkalf]

Thanks ljeepnaked.

Yeah, I bought 3 of the larger kits and 1 of the smaller to have enough of each. Here ya go.
Short kit Small BB
Long kit Long BB

Good luck,
Z

 

[Zolkalf]

Ok, 1 step forward...2 steps back....
I received the LED Kit and it's a nice looking kit.

This kit had everything I wanted for LED's. Flash for Hazards, Lights will turn RED on Braking, Bluetooth to smartphone so I don't have to carry around a fob, Low voltage shut off, Duel zones, and many different lighting effects. The only thing that wasn't printed on the box was Headache!

Here is what's going on. My rear tail lights have 2 wires. When you turn the bike on the rear lights come on (RED) but not super bright. (running lights) Then when you hit the brake the indicators go to super bright RED (brake lights)

That's how they are supposed to work. No problems.

So with this LED kit you have 3 wires ...(RED) to + (BLACK) to - and (BLUE) that connects to your brake wire. What this does is say your LEDGLOWS are GREEN. When you hit your brakes 12v are sent to that BLUE wire and the GREEN LEDGLOWS turn to RED. When you take the brakes off you loose the 12v to the BLUE wire and the LEDGLOWS will go back to GREEN. Pretty slick right?

Here's the problem. My Rear LED indicators, there are 2 wires + and - and as soon as you turn the bike on that BLUE wire is getting 12V for your running lights. The LEDGLOW lighting goes to RED. You hit the brakes and the rear indicators get brighter (your brake lights) take the brakes off and the indicators go back to (running lights) mode and the LEDGLOWS stay RED.

Since that BLUE wire is constantly getting 12v it will not flip flop between colors so I need to figure out a way to have 12V to that BLUE wire only when the brakes are applied.

There has to be one wire someplace that is a direct connect to the brake and not the ones going to the LED indicators themselves .that doesn't supply a constant 12v.
I'll dig deeper tomorrow.

Here is a picture. YELLOW circle on top is my + and - for the rear indicator with the BLUE wire for the LEDGLOW. Bottom Yellow circle is the indicator.

Any thoughts?

 

[2wheelsup]

You’ll need to wire in a relay that will pass 12 volts to the blue wire when the brake is actually hit or ground depending on how you wire the relay and what that kit needs to see.

 

[K9F]

Don’t forget the lights are ground-earth switched so the relay suggested above seems to be the ideal solution. How the addition of a relay may affect the CanBus is anyone’s idea.

 

[Zolkalf]

I might need to do that.
Today I went to the front of the bike and looked at the wires connected directly to the front brake. There is a Yellow and a White with Black stripe.

I then followed that into the front of the handle bars and exposed the wires. Man...I thought I had it.....

The Yellow wire works...... but it is the exact opposite. Hit the Brakes and the LEDGLOWS turn to GREEN. Let off on the brakes and the LEDGLOWS go the brake lights, RED. So squeezing the brake actually cuts off the 12V on the Yellow wire to allow the LEDGLOWS to go the GREEN, With no brake pressure the Yellow wire is getting 12v and going to brake light RED. Total opposite than I had thought. 😂 Fun fun
Thanks for the input.

 

[Zolkalf]

In addition to today I did get the 4 bolts covered Black on each side of the frame just forward of the seat so that takes care of pretty much all of them.
On these LEDGLOWS It's looking like a relay is the only way to go. I was just shocked that the most direct wire to the brake was a total opposite.

I'll start looking into what it takes on a relay install and if you have any recommendations for a relay or any other ideas hit me up.
Z

 

[K9F]

If you're hooking up a relay the simplest solution would be to buy a NO (normally open) relay and use the very same supply and ground/earth switching supply that you have the issue with through the coil of said relay to do the exact opposite that the bike is doing. Basically close the contacts and supply what you want it to through the now closed contacts. Hope this makes sense Zolkalf.

 

[Zolkalf]

"Squeezing the brake actually cuts off the 12V on the Yellow wire to allow the LEDGLOWS to go the GREEN, With no brake pressure the Yellow wire is getting 12v and going to brake light RED.".

" you need a 5 terminal NO/NC relay"

10-4 Thank you.

 

[K9F]

Zolkalf, let me run this by you. If you're not going to use ground switching and I am reading this right you could split the trigger source supply and simply feed it to both the coil terminal 85 and contact 30 on the relay. Only when you energize the brakes the contact will change over and you will have a 12VDC supply out on contact 87 on the relay to connect to what you wish. You also do not need to feed a cable which will be permanently live to the battery directly at all. It will be ignition switched. Hope this makes sense. It does to me! How any of these changes may or may not affect the CanBus is anyone's guess. 😁

 

[Zolkalf]

K9F thank you for the post. I will clean the comments above . Like the fact there is no rush here and have plenty of time.
Thanks!

 

[K9F]

Then you need a 5 terminal NO/NC relay not 4 terminal with a third contact 87a you can tap off when the relay is de-energized (see below). The relay you pictured the contacts are open when de-energized and your voltage has nowhere to go. You will only have power out on 87 (or 30 dependent on how you hook it up) when there is power on 85. Relay diagrams are always depicted with no power applied. It is better to find an ignition sourced feed for your circuit than hooking it directly to your battery and to ground switch the coil of the relay if possible.

86 would be your yellow positive trigger source.
85 ground.
Note it doesn't matter which way you wire the two above as as long as the coil has a ground and supply one on each side it'll work.
87a would be your blue device.
30 your 12 volt supply.

 

[Zolkalf]

"Then you need a 5 terminal NO/NC relay"
I changed that order and canceled the 4 pin. Great help. Thanks again!

 

[K9F]

No worries Zolkalf. The five pin NO-NC relays are more versatile and can be used to supply, remove and transfer power. The four pin relays do not have the transfer option which is what you need. Glad to be of help. Sorry the solution was a bit convoluted, I struggled to grasp the concept as so much is going on.

 

[Mkbcaptain]

Just now seeing this. Not sure where you are but I have hundreds of 30A relays laying around I could have just mailed you. And if you are close to NC I could help with wring it up. I did the custom tail/break lights on my scout. I’ll keep a closer eye out next time!

 

[Mkbcaptain]

Should you be able to just connect the blue from the led kit to the white of the brake lights and bypass the relay altogether?

 

[Zolkalf]

Mkbcaptain...I'll say you do, that's a lot. Welcome to the party. K9F has me lined out but any added ideas or thoughts are always of value.

I ordered the 5 pin relay already but thanks. I live in Missouri and was playing Golf with one of my Buddies in North Carolina last night. Oculus Quest Golf in VR. Next best thing to being there. Back to the task at hand. When my relay comes in I will take K9F's schematic and color in what wire I am using and where they need to go from the pins. Take a look at that as well just to triple check.

Presently I am tacking on the lights with Gorilla tape temporarily, running the wires and trying to find places to hide the wire. There is not a lot of room in and around that frame. I have 9 of the 12 LEDGLOWS so far in places I think might work just as long as they stick after I clean everything off.

I appreciate the offer, Thanks.
Z