[K9F]

......Not sure what your saying here
------> "you’ll find this one anything up to 1000rpm out! "

Hi Zolkalf, a picture paints a thousand words. Found it after a bit of digging. I quite liked the concept of the gauge when I first heard about them. After a bit of research, these were fitted as standard to the Victory Octanes back in 2016. For me over here they were very expensive for what they were, also my diagnostic port is already occupied by the Jekyll and Hyde exhaust connector, and I certainly didn't need an idiot light telling me when to shift. It also wasn't going to fit with the billet housing on my speedo relocation. I finally discounted the idea as I already had a tach readout, and I didn't want another that reads up to 1000rpm difference. A fuel gauge option however I would buy in a heartbeat.

 

[Zolkalf]

The shift light I think only comes on when you hit 8000rpm like in the image. Maybe not so much a shift light but a "You might blow your motor if you don't shift light."

Of course no instructions in the box.

The image you sent is how I want to set mine up. Tach on the right hand side of the speedo. However, I did add the Indian USB charging port that is in the speedo housing so I need to make sure with the Tach on the right I can still access the charging port.
Putting it on the left hand side might conflict with my phone in the phone mount like in the image you posted so I'll just need to see what will work best.

The Tach is cool but I would have also preferred they came up with a gas gauge rather than the Tach.

Thanks for posting the pic so now I won't have to 😂

Z

 

[Zolkalf]

Install wasn't bad on the Tach. USB port was not an issue.

On the OEM bolts for the Black out bolt kit there are only 2 I can't get to but they are well hidden behind the DB pipe. I should be able to mask those pretty easily so will get that kit ordered.

Also while I had it apart I took off the Rox risers as front bolts had worked a little to loose for my likings. And lastly I decreased the resistance on the speed shifter by 2.
I hope to give it a go tomorrow.

Now it's 🍺30

 

[Zolkalf]

Well, I had to show one picture of my days labor.

The Tach with the speed shifter are the Bee's knees. I like how the Tach animates on start up going all the way up to 10000RPMS with the indicator light coming on and then back down to 0. It gives it a nice sporty vibe.

I checked out the Black Bolt kit from Louis – Motorcycle clothing and technology and they don't ship to the United States...... Blasphemy! That's a bummer......
I sent them an email and will wait for a reply.

UPDATE: Well Snap! Louis tech emailed me back and they don't ship to the United States because of "Strict product liability laws."

I'll put this bolt swap out on the back burner for now.

 

[Zolkalf]

"

"I would like the tach more if it was mounted directly above the Speedometer. It would be easier to see, also. How do you like it so far?? I miss not having a real tach! It's probably not possible to clock the tachometer to work directly above the speedo, is it?
Charlie"

The bracket that holds the tach and attaches to the speedo has a notch or key way in it to line up the bracket and keeps it from moving. I would think that you could cut a new key way or notch in the ring so it lines up vertically. I don't see that as a problem and could be done easily with some careful Dremel cuts., Or maybe a drill bit.

At 6 mins in this video will show you the notch I am talking about to allow you to slide the bracket over the bezel. Just relocate the notch and I'd think you will be good to go. Tach ring has a small notch as well.
Tach Install

Also, I mentioned in post above on how I like it. Good luck.
Z

 

[Charlie Chaplain]

"

"I would like the tach more if it was mounted directly above the Speedometer. It would be easier to see, also. How do you like it so far?? I miss not having a real tach! It's probably not possible to clock the tachometer to work directly above the speedo, is it?
Charlie"

The bracket that holds the tach and attaches to the speedo has a notch or key way in it to line up the bracket and keeps it from moving. I would think that you could cut a new key way or notch in the ring so it lines up vertically. I don't see that as a problem and could be done easily with some careful Dremel cuts.

At 6 mins in this video will show you the notch I am talking about to allow you to slide the bracket over the bezel. Just relocate the notch and I'd think you will be good to go. Tach ring has a small notch as welll. And check cable length just to be sure it's long enough, it should be.
Tach Install

Also, I mentioned in post above on how I like it. Good luck.
Z

Thanks! I was hoping it would be able to clock at 12 😅

 

[Charlie Chaplain]

Thanks! I was hoping it would be able to clock at 12 😅

"

"I would like the tach more if it was mounted directly above the Speedometer. It would be easier to see, also. How do you like it so far?? I miss not having a real tach! It's probably not possible to clock the tachometer to work directly above the speedo, is it?
Charlie"

The bracket that holds the tach and attaches to the speedo has a notch or key way in it to line up the bracket and keeps it from moving. I would think that you could cut a new key way or notch in the ring so it lines up vertically. I don't see that as a problem and could be done easily with some careful Dremel cuts., Or maybe a drill bit.

At 6 mins in this video will show you the notch I am talking about to allow you to slide the bracket over the bezel. Just relocate the notch and I'd think you will be good to go. Tach ring has a small notch as well.
Tach Install

Also, I mentioned in post above on how I like it. Good luck.
Z

Thanks @Zolkalf, I believe that I could clock that bracket and tach anywhere I want by making a new notch in each side of the bracket. Now I need to see if there is clearance from the top of the speedometer, to the top of the tach, and measure up towards 12 o’clock to see if the fairing will clear the tach. Pretty sure it will, I have a Memphis Shades Fats on the front forks.
Charlie

 

[Zolkalf]

I agree, as they say...measure twice, cut once! My setup wouldn't allow a vertical mount as the crossbar from the beach bar would be in the way. But it would look cool vertical.

Also, I keep a small bag between the bars and my fairing over the top of the head light. Mounting vertically may have impeded on getting the bag in and out. If you carry a bag up front you might check that as well.

 

[Zolkalf]

Browsing around I found these Chinese Black Bolt kits on Amazon. 12.9 alloy steel and Black oxidized finished. That's a good grade steel and the oxidization should last as long as I have the bike however, they are Chinese and you know how it goes with Chinese products sometimes.

That being said, it would be about 50 bucks to do all the bolts so it wouldn't be a massive lose if they turned out to be junk. And I still have the OEM bolts I could always fall back on if needed.

I'll keep you posted. Be safe.
Z

M6 Bolts

 

[Zolkalf]

Well, got the bolts delivered in 2 days. I didn't think it would be that fast!
Assorted in nice trays and will have extra's.

Thanks K9F for posting the sizes in another thread, that made it super simple.
I should have this done tomorrow.
Had our first Snow fall today but I am hearing back up to 60 next week.
If this works out and they last for $50 I'll call it a win.

9 # of torque for all the bolts.

 

[Zolkalf]

MkbCaptain you around?

I have a request for photoshop. I don't know how hard it is to do this photoshop so I will throw it out here and you let me know.

Recently I requested from Hemisphere a seat rail for the Bruiser. The dude told me he would submit the idea to the development team or something like that.
Maybe he did, maybe he didn't and even if it does happen It's gonna be awhile. So a seat rail would need to be in the picture.

Also, I have an idea for the rear fender I would like. I would hate to spend that much $$$ on an idea and then when I get it it's not what I thought it would be.

Adding these to the overall theme would be helpful to see exactly how I think I want it to look. Possible?

Hit me up and let me know.
Z

 

[Frank White]

Well, I had to show one picture of my days labor.

View attachment 714806


The Tach with the speed shifter are the Bee's knees. I like how the Tach animates on start up going all the way up to 10000RPMS with the indicator light coming on and then back down to 0. It gives it a nice sporty vibe.

I checked out the Black Bolt kit from Louis – Motorcycle clothing and technology and they don't ship to the United States...... Blasphemy! That's a bummer......
I sent them an email and will wait for a reply.

UPDATE: Well Snap! Louis tech emailed me back and they don't ship to the United States because of "Strict product liability laws."

I'll put this bolt swap out on the back burner for now.

I was able to get a bolt kit from them. I just had someone in another country receive and reship. It turns out I actually have another set because they charged me double and sent me 2 sets at 2 different times. I am having the person send them back to Louis but they haven't yet. I suppose I can send to you but I warn you the shipping from the UK is steep. I also was told ProBolts has them but I found that they only had aluminum which I suppose may be better as the motor is aluminum but I prefer the stainless steel and just use non-metal anti-seize when replacing 1-by-1. Let me know if you are interested. It would be the same cost I paid plus shipping from London.

 

[Zolkalf]

I was able to get a bolt kit from them. I just had someone in another country receive and reship. It turns out I actually have another set because they charged me double and sent me 2 sets at 2 different times. I am having the person send them back to Louis but they haven't yet. I suppose I can send to you but I warn you the shipping from the UK is steep. I also was told ProBolts has them but I found that they only had aluminum which I suppose may be better as the motor is aluminum but I prefer the stainless steel and just use non-metal anti-seize when replacing 1-by-1. Let me know if you are interested. It would be the same cost I paid plus shipping from London.

Frank,
I appreciate the offer and would have taken you up on that about 2 weeks earlier but it's done now. Well, almost done. There are 2 bolts just behind the bend in the DB pipe I can't get out so I will have to paint them.
Louis not shipping to the US put a halt on that idea but I was able to find the box sets I posted above.

Thanks for stopping by.
Z

 

[Mkbcaptain]

MkbCaptain you around?

I have a request for photoshop. I don't know how hard it is to do this photoshop so I will throw it out here and you let me know.

Recently I requested from Hemisphere a seat rail for the Bruiser. The dude told me he would submit the idea to the development team or something like that.
Maybe he did, maybe he didn't and even if it does happen It's gonna be awhile. So a seat rail would need to be in the picture.

Also, I have an idea for the rear fender I would like. I would hate to spend that much $$$ on an idea and then when I get it it's not what I thought it would be.

Adding these to the overall theme would be helpful to see exactly how I think I want it to look. Possible?

Hit me up and let me know.
Z

It wouldn’t be “hard” just takes time. I’m super busy atm but shoot me some pics and details what you’re thinking and I’ll see what I can do.

 

[Zolkalf]

Pictures, looking around I can't find anything I think would work and I'm not sure about the idea now that I press into it some.

 

[Zolkalf]

Leaving Al's today after Football and the best Chicken wings in Kansas City I put my phone on record.. When I got home and watched it looked like I was chasing my shadow, The Dirty Bird pipes sounded awesome and the speed shifter.....I should have done this 6 months ago.
Check it out.

Video

 

[Zolkalf]

MK,
I couldn't find any pictures so I masterfully drew it up in MS Paint. lol.

Thinking about it...sealed Skateboard ball bearings may be the solution...... Not sure they make that diameter and will need longer bolts....but....
I'm thinking 2 bars that wrap around the fender and the same angle. One bar around the fender on the top of the shocks and the other on the bottom. The sealed ball bearings will be on the top bolt to allow pivot with the swing arm.

The forward part of the fender will curve down beyond the front bar about vertical and the rear part of the fender will end about 1:30 / 2:00 in clock time.
At the 1:30 /2:00 I think I would have enough room to mount a fender rack if I wanted and put a sexy suitcase on it but not detract from the 240.

As far as pictures in similar thinking the Tank machine rear fender has the wrap around bar on there fender as does the Triumph Bobber. I never messed with PS so I am not sure what all it needs.

I also have my rear indicators mounted on my shocks but if I move them to the outside of the bearings to clear the bar I might be Okay.

It's an idea,.....version 1. If you have any thoughts, comments or additions let me know or anyone for this matter.

 

[Frank White]

MK,
I couldn't find any pictures so I masterfully drew it up in MS Paint. lol.

Thinking about it...sealed Skateboard ball bearings may be the solution...... Not sure they make that diameter and will need longer bolts....but....
I'm thinking 2 bars that wrap around the fender and the same angle. One bar around the fender on the top of the shocks and the other on the bottom. The sealed ball bearings will be on the top bolt to allow pivot with the swing arm.

The forward part of the fender will curve down beyond the front bar about vertical and the rear part of the fender will end about 1:30 / 2:00 in clock time.
At the 1:30 /2:00 I think I would have enough room to mount a fender rack if I wanted and put a sexy suitcase on it but not detract from the 240.

As far as pictures in similar thinking the Tank machine rear fender has the wrap around bar on there fender as does the Triumph Bobber. I never messed with PS so I am not sure what all it needs.

I also have my rear indicators mounted on my shocks but if I move them to the outside of the bearings to clear the bar I might be Okay.

It's an idea,.....version 1. If you have any thoughts, comments or additions let me know or anyone for this matter.



View attachment 717609

I think you may be overthinking it unless I misunderstood. I assume you wish to make a swingarm mounted fender? If this is the case why would anything need a swivel or need to move? The fender would be "fixed" to the swingarm and moving in unison with the swingarm. Study the OEM fender stripped of all parts and place so that the fender is resting on the space forward of rear tire but a top the swingarm. This is where you mount something that holds onto that part of fender and utilize the side holes of fender if not wanting to damage OEM fender. Once fixed into place work on the correct gap for the rear of fender and tire considering the possibility of tire ballooning under speed. 1/4"-3/8" I assume should be plenty. Affix fender however possible temporarily and remove rear tire as it will make it easier to continue. You should see 2 potential mounting points. The rear right shock mount inner point is where I was considering. Tap hole on each side if possible. I think left side may have to be mounted differently but I haven't had a chance to finish. I am using stainless rods with stainless round eyelets for the correct size tap I am using. I will be using rubber bushings on the OEM fender holes for dampening any vibrations as well as blue loctite on all fittings. Last thing you want is something getting loose and jamming into the rear wheel and locking the rear tire at speed. Hope this helps.

 

[K9F]

Hi Zolkalf,

Agree with Frank on this about looking too deep perhaps? Put a few thoughts together below.

My front fender is made out of two halves, 3mm hand rolled steel and it is VERY heavy as a result. It was a prototype before deciding to make them from molded GRP. My rear fender is molded and a lot lighter as the steel was way too heavy to be fixed by a single bracket. It is fixed to the rear swing arm by means of a large 'T' bracket which is bolted at four points to the swing arm. For your purpose as you already know bolting to the swing arm only is not an option as whatever the rear fender is made of, the vibration is too great and insufficient support on its own to carry anything.

By virtue of the fact you are wanting to fit a rack this would need to be a much longer fender and it will be more or less the same length as the OEM fender you took off. See comparison photos below.

This will detract from both the close out panel work and the rear wheel upgrade which are both a damn shame to cover after all the expense to get it looking like it is. If you do decide to continue down this track, I would see if I could get metal fabricator workshop involved to sound out the idea and maybe work with it. You could also consider using the original struts and perhaps 'adapt and evolve' them into something you could work with in conjunction with the fabricator. You may even be able to encase the struts completely with a custom-made fender with your wider wheel. You'd then have no other 'scaffolding' supports on view, who knows?

Me I just use a Kriega backpack if ever I need to. As ever good luck Zolkalf, as you know I have followed your build with interest. No offence whatsoever but I am not keen personally on this latest idea though. A shorty fender and backpack is a much better solution methinks. Your bike though and I am sure it'll look ok whatever way you go!

This is 'Richo's' fender rear view with a 180. My thoughts were wrapping the fender over the adapted struts perhaps. You could cut the struts shorter should you wish too and if the fender was over the struts, you could carry all the weight you would ever want.

 

[Zolkalf]

Thanks for the comments.
I was looking at a fender yesterday from Shift Koncepts I am eye balling and looking at his swing arm mount I wondered if my swing arm bag would be a problem.

"I think you may be overthinking it unless I misunderstood. I assume you wish to make a swingarm mounted fender? "

No, The the thinking was maybe you don't even need to mount it to the swingarm.
The 4 points of contact would be the 4 shock bolts. The bearing idea is probably a stretch but the thought was when that swingarm bounces up the mounting bar on the top strut bolt that holds the front of the fender would need to pivot with the swingarm and the rear of the fender would be fixed by the mounting bar on the bottom strut bolt.
The fender would just wrap around the tire connected to the 2 rods connected to the 4 strut bolts and nothing would mount to the swingarm.

I was kind of just thinking out loud on this idea, it was just a thought. The Brown bike you posted is a good representation of the fender length I drew up and seeing it with the floating seat I'm not digging it. Not at all.

Back to the Shift Koncepts fender he has 2 versions. a vented and a non-vented and come in 180/200/240 tire sizes.
I would go with the non-vented and emailed him yesterday and asked if the non-vented still had the "ribs" and he said it did not.
It's only $400 ... I may ask him what the block and bolt are on the back of the mounting bracket and maybe a few more pictures.
I also found a assembly video on it and it appears to be Matt Black and smooth and matches so maybe no painting required.

Shift Koncepts webpage

Shift Koncepts install video