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Discussion Starter #1
I went with Kuryakyn bullet turn signals on my Scout and Springfield. Not exactly a direct bolt-in, but almost. As you may know, our bikes run constant power through the + red wires and are switched through the - black wires. When using any dual function aftermarket light, this creates a big issue...they don't work.

My solution was to add 4 small relays...1 each per bullet. It works. Here's something I sketched out for it:
20160628_202840-1.jpg


It looks a lot more scary than it is...basically, you'll have 4 wires going to to each bullet. You need a switched pos/neg pair of wires from the front (inside the bucket), and another pair in the rear (splice into the license plate light). You'll need dual filament style turn signals...the type with 3 wires, and you need to retain the factory turn signal wires.

If you stare at it long enough it should make sense...lol. Worked for me:)
 

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I went with Kuryakyn bullet turn signals on my Scout and Springfield. Not exactly a direct bolt-in, but almost. As you may know, our bikes run constant power through the + red wires and are switched through the - black wires. When using any dual function aftermarket light, this creates a big issue...they don't work.

My solution was to add 4 small relays...1 each per bullet. It works. Here's something I sketched out for it: View attachment 49325

It looks a lot more scary than it is...basically, you'll have 4 wires going to to each bullet. You need a switched pos/neg pair of wires from the front (inside the bucket), and another pair in the rear (splice into the license plate light). You'll need dual filament style turn signals...the type with 3 wires, and you need to retain the factory turn signal wires.

If you stare at it long enough it should make sense...lol. Worked for me:)

Could you have gone thru the license plate light wire for constant? That way the lights would only come on when you turn on the bike? I'm sorry, I just read your entire thread, you DID go through the license plate light.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Could you have gone thru the license plate light wire for constant? That way the lights would only come on when you turn on the bike? I'm sorry, I just read your entire thread, you DID go through the license plate light.
Yes, I used the license plate pos/neg to power the relays, then used the turn signal pos/neg to trigger them.
 

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I'm still confused; I have a RM and don't think I need a bullet (not sure) to put the turn signal and brake light on) but I'm not sure. With my old VFR I pulled an electrical line from the middle connector on the turn signals and used Posi-Taps to power them. The result was constant on turn signals but flashed when need to indicate turns.

Is that possible to do with the RM? Thoughts?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I'm still confused; I have a RM and don't think I need a bullet (not sure) to put the turn signal and brake light on) but I'm not sure. With my old VFR I pulled an electrical line from the middle connector on the turn signals and used Posi-Taps to power them. The result was constant on turn signals but flashed when need to indicate turns.

Is that possible to do with the RM? Thoughts?

Thanks
They won't do what they did on your VFR (Dual function) without incorporating relays. If you don't use relays and leave the low/running light wire clipped (using only your "bright" wire and the ground) it'll work fine...there will just be no running lights.

I'm speaking strictly about turn signals here, but I haven't done anything at all to the brake lights. I'm assuming it is switched on the negative side as well, but I could be wrong. The problem with "legacy" aftermarket lights is they are designed to be switched on the positive wire.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
A different schematic:
SchematicTurn.jpg
 

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My bike: 2016 Scout Sixty
Hi there, I am looking to install Custom Dynamics Flat Ringz on my front turn signal, dual color so that it has a white halo lights on during run, then amber middle lights during a turn. It seems to me that these lights have a lead that connects to the bottom of a bulb that you then insert into the bulb holder (sorry, I don't know the terminology for these parts). Now there are three wires leasing into the bulb base, so I guess those are the three wires in your drawing? Also, will I need a crossfeed diode since I have a single bulb indicator?
Or a load equalizer since I am switching from bulbs to LEDs?
Finally, does this setup have a normal flashing sequence?


Thank you in advance for your wisdom!

Rafael

http://www.customdynamics.com/instructions/FTR-GENERAL.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You need a micro relay and a switched 12v source with ground going to each light, in addition to your OEM turn sig pos/neg (4 wires to each light total) then follow my schematic. No load resistors or diodes. There's a power/ground inside your headlight bucket you can use for this...be prepared for some splicing and wiring.
 

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You need a micro relay and a switched 12v source with ground going to each light, in addition to your OEM turn sig pos/neg (4 wires to each light total) then follow my schematic. No load resistors or diodes. There's a power/ground inside your headlight bucket you can use for this...be prepared for some splicing and wiring.

Thanks, your info is awesome so let me get started on it!

Have you been able to figure out how to rig this to work on the rear with brake lights (Run, turn, brake)?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry but no
 

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Discussion Starter #12
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Discussion Starter #14
Nice! Very happy to be of help...ride safely brother!
 
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Hey do you have a power off picture? Also which housings lights did you use?
Sorry for the late reply. I used Drag Specialties front turn chrome bullets, model 2020-0393. it has three wires so i connected the LED to them inside the bullet housing, and inside the headlight bucket the bullet connects to the relays.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry for the late reply. I used Drag Specialties front turn chrome bullets, model 2020-0393. it has three wires so i connected the LED to them inside the bullet housing, and inside the headlight bucket the bullet connects to the relays.
Looks awesome man, nice bike!!! Thanks!
 

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Hey do you have a power off picture? Also which housings lights did you use?
Question: since my brake lights are LED
Sorry but no
Follow up question to my earlier one, about you being able to figure out how to install leds for run/brake/turn on a Scout. Suppose using the existing LED input wires for the brake light and instead of one relay per bullet, there are two (one feeds into another), would this setup work? (i haven't figure out how to wire it, this is just a theory).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Question: since my brake lights are LED


Follow up question to my earlier one, about you being able to figure out how to install leds for run/brake/turn on a Scout. Suppose using the existing LED input wires for the brake light and instead of one relay per bullet, there are two (one feeds into another), would this setup work? (i haven't figure out how to wire it, this is just a theory).
I suppose you could use a couple of diodes to achieve this, but it hurts my brain thinking about it:) Seriously though, there are turn signal diodes already commonly available for people who convert older bikes to LED. The diodes are for the turn indicator bulb in the instrument cluster, but I don't see why they wouldn't work in a braking application.
 

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Indian (as do most modern cars) uses a CANBUS electrical system.

A Brief Explanation of CAN Bus - SewellDirect.com

The CANBUS system talks to the computer system, notifying it when ever there are changes in resistance. The computer then notifies you. e.g. a burned out bulb or an excessive load on a circuit.
 
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