my answer is carefully

 

Being a new FTR 1200 owner, and new to the whole motorcycle scene (I haven't owned a bike in decades since owning an old Yamaha 750 in the 90's). How exactly does one do a wheelie? I know you can rev it and pop the clutch, but that seems rather hazardous.

I'm under the impression that the FTR 1200 will wheelie with just a throttle twist, and in all reality I haven't push this baby hard yet, because of that belief.

Is there safe way to learn?

Of course.
Important Lesson 1
Find an old 750 Kaw triple 2 stroke wif expansion chambers, start very gently, slowly shift into second, third or fourth gear, twist throttle gently, wheelies are fun.
Important Lesson 2
Frame flex and Wheelies: tread lightly into a sweeping corner, gently apply throttle, feel front tire lift, feel frame flex. Enjoy!

 

The older Kaws had flexible frames for sure. Big light switch horsepower combined with wicked handling got a lot of young dudes killed back in the day. Hence the nickname "The Widowmaker". The early 900 Z1 fours had similar handling issues in curves & corners (especially two-up) as the original frame was meant for a 750 version that got enlarged to 903cc. Later frames were reinforced and gusseted

 

Yes, the good old days.
Was my tongue in cheek way of saying this was how I learned to wheelie and about frame flex, now mostly non existent.
One good suggestion was a low power dirt bike, something that has been dropped before.

 

I’ve never been good at wheelies, and the FTR lifts the front so easy it scares me.

 

It's a beast, for sure, but I'll venture to say you're better at them than you think...

 

I find the rear brake to be essentially non existent on my FTR, which makes my wheelies unimpressive and youngster- ish. Maybe I need to bleed the air out of it.....?

 

I find the rear brake to be essentially non existent on my FTR, which makes my wheelies unimpressive and youngster- ish. Maybe I need to bleed the air out of it.....?

Bleed it abs adjust the plunger


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Can you push it down all the way, or does it simply not decelerate much? Adjust it up a bit?

(I found the amount of rear brake you need to control a wheelie is very little, else the front just slams down)

 

it just doesn't do shit.....guess I'll adjust it....thanks.

 

Yeah, you don't need until you need it, then you need it... LOL

 

I do that yearly instead of the required two years. Might also increase the life of the ABS pump (been a BMW problem for a while)

 

Not a bad idea. Takes all of 10-20min to do.

 

I was on an old bike at a track day when the brake fluid boiled. 155mph going into a hard brake zone. Thought I was a goner. Gravel trap to the rescue. Have been diligent with brake fluid since. Good fluid saves lives.

 

Which brings up another good point. Make sure the plunger isn’t adjusted too far in, otherwise it will drag the brake, boil the fluid and lock up, it’s neat to adjust it on a rear stand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

This guy

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

This was way out of adjustment....also, I have now identified rear tire spin on the stock tires to also be a culprit....I will get that taken care of within the next few weeks. Winter, which started Jan 1 ish, is almost over in SC!

 

I wheelied my base FTR on my first ride, wheeeeeee!

 

Quick question please if this applies to the FTR?....

If you bleed the brakes at home how do you ensure the ABS brake modulator is bled if indeed there is one? On my other steed you are ok opening up the system, pipes etc. from the modulator up to the reservoir but anything after the modulator you need a diagnostic tool to activate the modulator to bleed it through.

 

No special tool needed !

 

Just don’t let air back bleed into the system and you’re fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk