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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I’m struggling with handlebar vibration on my 2017 Scout 69. I tipped the bike onto the left side and filled the handlebars from the throttle end with #5 lead shot. I tapped it down with a rubber mallet as I filled a little bit at a time and capped it off with a small plug of goop at the throttle end. Not sure how well packed it is on the clutch side.

The lead shot reduced vibration about 70-80% which is good, but not good enough as I still get numbness.

I’m currently looking at various weighted end options ranging from about 9 oz. to 16 oz. Not sure whether to try this with or without the lead shot. Yesterday, I taped about 14 oz. of wheel weights onto the throttle grip (with the lead shot still in) and it did not seem to improve things over the lead shot.

One guy said to remove the lead shot and use the weighted bar ends alone, as the added weight is most effective at the bar ends. I guess I’ll try that, but I’m not so thrilled at prospect of cutting the OEM grip ends open to fit them, so I thought I would ask the community their thoughts on quelling handlebar vibrations. (I already have foam grip puppies installed.)

Anyone solve this already?

P.S., I already use a light "potato chip" grip and the bar position and leavers are already optimized.
 

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Rider
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Hi All,

I’m struggling with handlebar vibration on my 2017 Scout 69. I tipped the bike onto the left side and filled the handlebars from the throttle end with #5 lead shot. I tapped it down with a rubber mallet as I filled a little bit at a time and capped it off with a small plug of goop at the throttle end. Not sure how well packed it is on the clutch side.

The lead shot reduced vibration about 70-80% which is good, but not good enough as I still get numbness.

I’m currently looking at various weighted end options ranging from about 9 oz. to 16 oz. Not sure whether to try this with or without the lead shot. Yesterday, I taped about 14 oz. of wheel weights onto the throttle grip (with the lead shot still in) and it did not seem to improve things over the lead shot.

One guy said to remove the lead shot and use the weighted bar ends alone, as the added weight is most effective at the bar ends. I guess I’ll try that, but I’m not so thrilled at prospect of cutting the OEM grip ends open to fit them, so I thought I would ask the community their thoughts on quelling handlebar vibrations. (I already have foam grip puppies installed.)

Anyone solve this already?

P.S., I already use a light "potato chip" grip and the bar position and leavers are already optimized.
Hay Marty,, I got a scout icon abs 69CI,, I’ve never felt any vibration,, and I road Harley’s for 25 years,, thats 1 reason i bought the scout,, lt didn’t vibrate. Something is lose somewhere on your sled,, get it checked. My neighbor has a 60,, his don’t vibrate ether..So,, lead shot ey ,,WOW,, never thought of that, mite work on Harley’s .
 

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Hay Marty,, I got a scout icon abs 69CI,, I’ve never felt any vibration,, and I road Harley’s for 25 years,, thats 1 reason i bought the scout,, lt didn’t vibrate. Something is lose somewhere on your sled,, get it checked. My neighbor has a 60,, his don’t vibrate ether..So,, lead shot ey ,,WOW,, never thought of that, mite work on Harley’s .
When I had my S40 thumper some in the group had done the lead shot trick. Word is that it works.
On my 17 Scout 60 when I put the progressive springs in the front forks I noticed less vibration in the handle bars. Though I didn't think there was that much to begin with, still less is better. Also, I put "Grab Ons" foam wraps over the grips and that was a significant improvement. I believe that a lot of hand problems are due to the stock grips being to small around. I was getting wrist and forearm pain that went away within days of putting the Grab Ons on.
 

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Hi All,

I’m struggling with handlebar vibration on my 2017 Scout 69. I tipped the bike onto the left side and filled the handlebars from the throttle end with #5 lead shot. I tapped it down with a rubber mallet as I filled a little bit at a time and capped it off with a small plug of goop at the throttle end. Not sure how well packed it is on the clutch side.

The lead shot reduced vibration about 70-80% which is good, but not good enough as I still get numbness.

I’m currently looking at various weighted end options ranging from about 9 oz. to 16 oz. Not sure whether to try this with or without the lead shot. Yesterday, I taped about 14 oz. of wheel weights onto the throttle grip (with the lead shot still in) and it did not seem to improve things over the lead shot.

One guy said to remove the lead shot and use the weighted bar ends alone, as the added weight is most effective at the bar ends. I guess I’ll try that, but I’m not so thrilled at prospect of cutting the OEM grip ends open to fit them, so I thought I would ask the community their thoughts on quelling handlebar vibrations. (I already have foam grip puppies installed.)

Anyone solve this already?

P.S., I already use a light "potato chip" grip and the bar position and leavers are already optimized.
Two things that come to my mind. First are the forks. Progressive springs improved vibration on my 17 Sixty. But it sounds like you are getting an abnormal level of vibration. I'd have a good bike mechanic take it for a ride. Also, your wheels could be poorly balanced.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the feedback, guys.

I already did the Progressive fork spring upgrade, as well as switching to the Michelins. I only balanced the new tires statically, so possibly they need dynamic balancing but I doubt it. The Michlins are built almost perfectly and require almost zero balancing, but I have to allow the possibility. I feel like the vibrations are engine rev correlated and will check this today by hitting the vib spot and then coasting with clutch pulled and throttle released. If the vibs continue, it will be the tire, if not it must be the engine. But this is just to prove the theory that it is not the tire... After all, its a v-twin with inherent vibrations.

Maybe I'm more sensitive to the vibs what with arthritis in neck and nerve impingement. But I find it hard to believe that people are reporting zero vibs out of a v-twin.
 

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The Scout is a high revving motor, it lives between 3,000 - 6,000 rpm's. I put Avon grips on my Scout 60 I had, it did wonders for eliminating most of the vibes. The only true way to eliminate 100 % of the handlebar vibration is to park it and don't ride it. My suggestion is to get you a good pair of gloves, and let'er rip! That is why you purchased it isn't it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh, and BTW: the post is about mitigating vibs, not whether they exist.

Any anecdotes using weighted bar ends or lead shot will be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The Scout is a high revving motor, it lives between 3,000 - 6,000 rpm's. I put Avon grips on my Scout 60 I had, it did wonders for eliminating most of the vibes. The only true way to eliminate 100 % of the handlebar vibration is to park it and don't ride it. My suggestion is to get you a good pair of gloves, and let'er rip! That is why you purchased it isn't it?
Whay modle of the Avon Grips are you using? There seem to be a bunch.
 

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Thanks for the feedback, guys.

I already did the Progressive fork spring upgrade, as well as switching to the Michelins. I only balanced the new tires statically, so possibly they need dynamic balancing but I doubt it. The Michlins are built almost perfectly and require almost zero balancing, but I have to allow the possibility. I feel like the vibrations are engine rev correlated and will check this today by hitting the vib spot and then coasting with clutch pulled and throttle released. If the vibs continue, it will be the tire, if not it must be the engine. But this is just to prove the theory that it is not the tire... After all, its a v-twin with inherent vibrations.

Maybe I'm more sensitive to the vibs what with arthritis in neck and nerve impingement. But I find it hard to believe that people are reporting zero vibs out of a v-twin.
I might be less sensitive as I came from a 650 single. I thought the Scout was pretty smooth until I test rode the new Royal Enfield 650 twin last week. It was smooth in comparison to the Scout. Of course it was smaller and lighter.

Here is another suggestion. Go to the Indian dealer and ask if you can do a test ride of a Scout. Preferably a year or two old if they've got one on the floor. You need something to compare yours to.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
View attachment 525502

Avon Air Cushion in black.
Looking at this very seriously. They also recommend their memory foam grips, so now I'm in a tither. They also sell these with what they call their throttle boss. Basically a cramp buster that matches.

So Air Cushion vs Memory Foam? Which will dampen the most? Any comparisons out their?
 

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Well on mine, I used a $10.00 cramp buster that just clipped on, wore leather gloves, and I could ride 400-500 miles in one day and not have any issues out of the air grips. My $.02
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well on mine, I used a $10.00 cramp buster that just clipped on, wore leather gloves, and I could ride 400-500 miles in one day and not have any issues out of the air grips. My $.02
Thanks IndySF. I'm going to order their memory foam grips because they say they are even more compliant than the air grips. One can only hope... do one.
 

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There are weighted bar inserts that are available (not weighted bar ends) from a company called Fasst. I have used these successfully on dirt bikes with a lot of buzz at the grips. They go into the handlebar ends and are about 5” long. Changing the mechanical resonance point can indeed help vibration at the grips. There is also a product called “bar snake” which is a weighted soft tube that fills the whole handlebar. Another thought would be to change your handlebars to something else, again it’s a mechanical resonance that just happens to have the most amplitude at your grips.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
There are weighted bar inserts that are available (not weighted bar ends) from a company called Fasst. I have used these successfully on dirt bikes with a lot of buzz at the grips. They go into the handlebar ends and are about 5” long. Changing the mechanical resonance point can indeed help vibration at the grips. There is also a product called “bar snake” which is a weighted soft tube that fills the whole handlebar. Another thought would be to change your handlebars to something else, again it’s a mechanical resonance that just happens to have the most amplitude at your grips.
Thanks Gort! (Klaatu Barada Nikto... "don't taze me, man!"),
Yes, I saw these. Some folks have reported that the rubber o-rings on the Fasst inserts don't hold up well. But maybe they are better then the lead shot I'm currently using (which reduces vibs by about 75%). The Scout handlebars have holes in them for zip ties that hold wiring, so these will probably interfere with the bar snake.

I'm hoping that between the lead shot and the Avons, that I'll get things smoothed out about as well as possible.

Thanks again!
 

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Thanks Gort! (Klaatu Barada Nikto... "don't taze me, man!"),
Yes, I saw these. Some folks have reported that the rubber o-rings on the Fasst inserts don't hold up well. But maybe they are better then the lead shot I'm currently using (which reduces vibs by about 75%). The Scout handlebars have holes in them for zip ties that hold wiring, so these will probably interfere with the bar snake.

I'm hoping that between the lead shot and the Avons, that I'll get things smoothed out about as well as possible.

Thanks again!
In a side note on installing the Avon grips, the right side switch pod where the throttle grip goes, has a pin/peg that goes into a hole in the handle bar. Take your time with the alignment, don't force it in by tightening the screws. If you fork it up, you will need to buy a new switch housing, $$$$$$.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
In a side note on installing the Avon grips, the right side switch pod where the throttle grip goes, has a pin/peg that goes into a hole in the handle bar. Take your time with the alignment, don't force it in by tightening the screws. If you fork it up, you will need to buy a new switch housing, $$$$$$.
Yea! I saw that before when I tried to rotate the leavers down a bit for better ergonomics, but NOOOOOOO... SOL. Thanks for the heads up. Kind of stupid that they would lock you into a fixed position for the leavers like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK... Bummer on this.

I go the Avon Memory Foam grips and they are no better then what I have already: stock OEM grips plus GrabOn foam sleeves (for like 15 bucks). I have asked for an MRA.

I was hoping for much more than that... :-(
 
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