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Discussion Starter #1
FTR base model – under 5K miles (manual says to check spark plug gap at 10K, replace if necessary)
It was fun getting to the plugs, at least now I know for next time – NGK MR7F (no iridium cross reference match – replaced with new originals)
Torque 12 Newton meters, GAP .030 inch, (0.80mm) not gorilla

Found rear plug gap at .039” – threads had no Anti-Seize (aluminum or copper base), spark plug was super tight– Coil had no dielectric grease –
Found front plug gap at .034”, super tight and dry

Used copper based Anti-Seize – tighten to spec, used dielectric grease on Coil cap for plug and electrical connector – I could have used the old plugs - cleaned and re gapped – but the Porcelain/ Ceramic body may have taken a lot of stress during assembly
It’s still a good Machine don’t get me wrong – Peace of Mind comes from Knowing, not Believing

(The manual says to do all this – but it doesn’t come that way from the factory – at least mine didn’t) its running bad ass
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copper based Anti-Seize
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original plug just under 5K miles - gap was over spec, almost .040"
 

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Used plug gap should always be checked with a wire type gage due to grnd strap erosion.You were probably .042 or better on that rear plug.When I changed plugs on the FJR the first time I found it hard to believe it ran as smooth as it did with large gaps I found.New plugs made a huge improvement in both starting and smoothness.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Used plug gap should always be checked with a wire type gage due to grnd strap erosion.You were probably .042 or better on that rear plug.When I changed plugs on the FJR the first time I found it hard to believe it ran as smooth as it did with large gaps I found.New plugs made a huge improvement in both starting and smoothness.
Thank You for your feed back - I don't feel alone anymore
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
What made you pull the plugs so early?


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it was running a little rough- but mostly I wanted to make sure the coils had dielectric for moisture proofing - check the gaps to see how they were doing - and made sure the threads wouldn't seize up on me at 10K (they were dry and over tighten)
I'm kind of glad I did check
 

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Also MR7F = a CPR8E, which equals a CR8EIX iridium.

MR7F is a common NKG Polaris used plug.

Per the internets


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Traditional spark plugs, in my experience, have terrible consistency with proper gaps. Even iridiums have been way off. Out of an 8pk of iridium Densos, I had 2 plugs that were at spec, 3 more that were kind of close, and 3 that I definitely wouldn't use without gapping them first. I would have to imagine Indian does not measure gaps before installation. Not after this post anyway. It'll be one of the first things I do if they ever get around to delivering my FTR.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also MR7F = a CPR8E, which equals a CR8EIX iridium.

MR7F is a common NKG Polaris used plug.

Per the internets


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I didn't find anything in the 7 Heat Range - there are some 8's and 9's Heat Range that would fit, but not sure about the stock Coils rating ???- Yeah I would have loved some iridium 7's, because the plugs are a hassle to get to -the bike is running smooth and I learned something - I'll call it good for now - Thanks!!!!
 

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The MR7F is a 8 according to the other Polaris forums.

The cr8 is what everyone replaces it with. Which is also a very common street bike plug


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Discussion Starter #16
The Indian Dealership, is just a Franchise of the Indian corporation, and they're out to make a buck like everyone else - Indian Corporate needs to know - the bikes are under a two year unlimited miles factory warranty - accessibility to the plugs seems wasn't taken into consideration (iridium plugs would have been a better choice) - I'm loving my FTR, I just dread the next time the plugs become an issue
 

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I’m sure my Scout needs new spark plugs, now past 31000 miles. Idle seems rough.

Sure do miss having those plugs out in the open like the old bike, likewise an easy to access valve rocker adjustment.
Will be taking it in to be worked on instead of doing it myself.

I’m going to take a wild guess that a misfire code isn’t going to happen unless the actual spark is interrupted…?
Had just considered I would start getting codes showing if the plugs were going bad (excessive gap), but possibly not.
 

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I got no idea what you mean @D.Bury . Isn't it like that for every bike? My last Ducati needed a valve check at every 7.5k miles, which required the tank and airbox to be removed too...
 

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I take it you haven’t had to replace plugs on any post mid 2000 era sport bikes have you. Lol

But valve checks are going to be a breeze!!

You should have checked them while you were that far into the bike


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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Point taken - my last bike was a Cruiser - everything easy to get to..............Improvise Adapt and overcome…………
 
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