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2019 FTR 1200
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally got around to wiring up an ABS switch for my base model 2019 FTR 1200. There are a number of ways to go about doing this, the way I'm doing it is probably the simplest and a fairly typical solution for bikes with non-switchable ABS.

This will, of course, cause your ECU to throw a few codes every time you flip the ABS switch. The codes will go away when you return the switch to the fused position. If check engine lights and error codes and warranties keep you up at night then don't dick around with your wiring. Error codes below:

SPN: 65557
FMI: 22

SPN: 65557
FMI: 23

SPN: 520322
FMI: 22

Oddly enough, none of the above codes are listed in the Service Manual nor are they searchable on Indian's website. I'll take that as a good sign, because it means that none of these codes correspond to any of the terrifying situations described in the Service Manual. Out of sight and out of mind... right?

You can flip the ABS Switch at any speed while riding and it works as expected, you do not need to stop moving or shut off the engine at any point. The Error Code light and ABS light will toggle on and off every time you flip the switch, the Check Engine light stays illuminated longer but does go away after a few ABS-on rides.

Materials:
  • 3 to 4 ft of 10 AWG wire
  • 30 Amp Standard In-Line ATO Fuse Holder, Waterproof
  • 12 Volt 20 Amp (or more) On-Off Toggle Switch
  • 10-12 AWG Female Quick Connect, Insulated Crimp Terminals
  • 10-12 AWG Male Quick Connect, Non-Insulated Crimp Terminals
  • 10-12 AWG Insulated Butt Connectors
  • Solder / Flux (optional)
  • Heat Shrink
  • Scotch 3M Super88 Electrical Tape (or any flame-retardant electrical tape rated for at least 105°C)
  • Scotch 3M 130C Rubber Splicing Tape (optional, for waterproofing)
  • 2 part Epoxy or Silicone
You should be able to find all of the above at your local auto parts and hardware stores.

Tools:
  • Crimpers
  • Wire Strippers
  • Wire Cutters
  • Zip Ties
  • Knife
  • Soldering Iron (optional)
  • Dremel
  • Drill
  • Metal Files
  • Heat Gun or Lighter
You're basically going to be pulling the 25 Amp ABS Valve Fuse from the underside of the engine and replacing it with this, a toggle switch with an inline fuse holder on one lead:

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Step 1 - Pull the 25 Amp ABS Valve Fuse:

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Step 2 - Insert the 25 Amp ABS Valve Fuse into the In-Line Fuse Holder

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Step 3 - Crimp 2 Female Quick Connectors onto your length of 10 AWG Wire

Step 4 - Wrap about 1 ft with Super 88 Electrical Tape


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Step 5 - Remove both the Right Side Fuse Box Cover and Left Side Wiring Cover

Step 6 - Run your length of wire between the front and rear cylinder, entering the left side of the frame and existing the right side next to the fuse box


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Step 7 - Carve a nasty hole into the Right Side Fuse Box Cover for your Toggle Switch

Make sure you're aware of how much clearance your switch has, the grey line below indicates the edge of the fuse box.


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Step 8 - Install your Toggle Switch into the Right Side Fuse Box Cover

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I've hit the image limit and will continue this in the following post.
 

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2019 FTR 1200
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1,289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Step 9 - Cut 1 of your 2 wires near the Left Side Wiring Cover and install your In-Line Fuse Holder, continue wrapping your length of wire in Super 88 wherever necessary

You can either splice and solder this or use butt connectors.

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Step 10 - Weatherproof your Fuse Holder with 130C Rubber Splicing Tape and Super 88

I've decided to modify the Fuse Holder cap for use underneath the engine where it's more exposed.

Alternatively, you could buy a second Waterproof In-Line Fuse Holder and use the second cap here.

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Step 11 - Secure your Fuse Holder to the existing wiring harness

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Step 12 - Route your wires along the existing wiring harness behind the radiator, downward along the drain/vent tubes, and under the engine toward the ABS Valve Fuse Holder

Step 13 - Drill a hole in your weatherproof Fuse Holder cap, cut off the mounting tab, route your wires through the cap toward the ABS Valve Fuse Holder


You'll probably want to remove the other two fuses from their holders at this point, they will get in the way.

Step 14 - Terminate both wires with Male Quick Connects, heat shrink them to minimize the risk of shorting, insert them into the ABS Valve Fuse Holder, polarity does not matter

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Step 15 - Connect the weatherproof cap to the ABS Valve Fuse Holder and weatherproof the nasty hole that you drilled in it

I used 2-part epoxy for this because my tube of silicone is 2 years old, you might want to use silicone instead, I don't know, it's your life.

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Step 16 - Reinstall the other two fuses and tuck everything neatly into place where it won't be destroyed

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Step 17 - Label your new ABS Switch with something that makes sense in case you sell your bike one day

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Step 18 - Reinstall your skid plate. If you don't have a skid plate go build a skid plate.

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Thanks.
Nice instructions and materials list.
I appreciate all the effort. I had thought of simply disabling the signal from one of the abs sensors, as it is low power and would shut down the whole system.

This is a great mod for those who want to play in the dirt!
 

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Waiting for the first person to spline the rear abs wires into the front abs signal (don't do that the other way around btw!!). Then you can leave it on, and it will be completely ineffective. I was planning on doing that on my Vitpilen, untilI I found a dongle that worked.
 

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Fantastic write up and photos. Had a bit of time and intrigue and did a little digging.

Theoretically instead of bridging out the fuse and adding another inline fuse with your switch you could have left the original fuse in situ cut down on wiring and the extra fuse holder and simply inserted a switch in series with the cable that goes to pin 18 the top right hand pin of your ABS module connector this would have isolated the motor. Alternatively pin 9 of the ABS modulator which is top left placing the switch in series would isolate the ABS modulator in it's entirety. If it was me I would extract each pin in turn first to see what would suit best before cutting cables and splicing in?

Well done! (y)
 
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Fantastic write up and photos. Had a bit of time and intrigue and did a little digging.

Theoretically instead of bridging out the fuse and adding another inline fuse with your switch you could have left the original fuse in situ cut down on wiring and the extra fuse holder and simply inserted a switch in series with the cable that goes to pin 18 the top right hand pin of your ABS module connector this would have isolated the motor. Alternatively pin 9 of the ABS modulator which is top left placing the switch in series would isolate the ABS modulator in it's entirety. If it was me I would extract each pin in turn first to see what would suit best before cutting cables and splicing in?
His mod is a rough-and-ready hack.
There are certainly more elegant ways to disable abs, but the average rider isn't going to go there.

Simply fooling with the signal from the sensors would be easiest, but if this works for him-- go for it.
 

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I agree with the average rider, 'maybe not?' But as a 'hack' he certainly has both the tools and acumen and either way the end result would be the same. Admittedly I do suffer from mild OCD too and jobs like this are meat and gravy to me.

😆😇😎
 
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2019 FTR 1200
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Main appeal of this approach to me is that it doesn't modify or cut any existing wiring and is very easily removable.

a switch in series with the cable that goes to pin 18 the top right hand pin of your ABS module connector
Where is the ABS module connector?
 
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At a glance the module itself appears not to be shown on the wiring diagrams or where the exact location is on the bike nevertheless there is a detailed pinout and a diagram of the module depicted in the FTR workshop manual. The wiring harness replacement process detailed therein may give one a better idea exactly where it is? You'd have to hunt for it I think but it is a large elongated 18 pin connector..

Late edit: Found the ABS modulator in the rear head pipe removal procedure.

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