Ok, so im a lil later than I wanted but hey, life happens.
I wanted to give a lil peak into switching the fork springs to @DarkScout spec, for folks that may be on the fence involving the labor involved in doing the job.. my write up is geared toward the person, that has a held a wrench, and can fog a mirror while held to its nose.. its often perceived as an intimidating or very technical job.. when taken one step at a time, its achievable to even a novice wrench..
everyone does things a lil different, this is how I do mine..
Things you need.
The ability to lift front of bike enuff to remove front wheel.
15 weight fork oil
6mm Allen
8mm Allen
Flat blade screwdriver.
16mm Allen (in a pinch the back of sparkplug socket may work, I've done it in the past though haven't confirmed on scout)
30mm socket
A ruler. Or a means to measure fork oil air cap. I always make a tool that pre measures.
![]()
Pre measured to 160mm
Large syringe, hosing and zip ties and a bike spoke to keep hose straight. Un trimmed zip tie is the guide stop for measurement. more on that later..
First, I always break loose all bolts you know you will have to remove before lifting bike.
These will be
Fender. Brake caliper. Axel pinch bolt and Axel stud.
Its time to lift the bike.
I use a standard lift, and for added assurance I also use a ratchet strap hung from garage rafter.
![]()
Now, we can get at it!!
Step one. Open a Beer.
![]()
Step 2.
I like to mark fork tube orientation with a marker. Its more relevant to older, high mileage or wheelied bikes, to make sure it goes together as it was.
Step 3.
Remove brake caliper, dont let it hang from hose.
Use something to hang it, or, use Indians specially made perch to set it on like this.
![]()
Lol!
Step 4.
Remove wheel.
Weight of bike will shift at this point, so be mind full.
Step 5.
Remove fender.
Step 6.
Loosen triple tree fork bolts,
I like to take a flat blade screwdriver and gently tap into clamp to open it up a bit to aid in sliding fork tube from triples. It doesn't take much, just enough to stay put.
![]()
Step 7.
Loosen fork caps.
I slide the for tube down past the upper triple but leave in lower with enough clearance to get 30mm socket and driver on to fork cap.
Like the above picture.
Remove flat head, and snug up lower triple pinch bolt. With your hand hold down on socket, to assure from slipping give the handle a quick rap and it will break loose, with minimal mark on the cap..
![]()
Step 8.
Remove fork tube.
Loosen triple clamps you snugged up and slide fork tube out. You are now about to re spec your fork!
Step 9.
Remove factory spring, spacer and oil.
Using some care remove fork cap.
Now keep in mind, its under some spring pressure, its not a whole lot, but, will require a lil bit of anticipation.. think like popping a cork champagne bottle, some hand on the cap, and some on the fork tube to keep things under control after you breach last thread!
![]()
Step 10.
Remove factory spring, spacer and washer.
They will come out like this.
![]()
If you notice the tight wind coils are on bottom.. aka, upside down.. generally fork springs have the coils up, to reduce unsprung weight.
Step 11.
Drain old fork oil.
Pour it out, and extend and retract fork to work out as much old oil as possible.
Looks like ATF..Smells like ATF..
Feels like ATF.. tastes like ATF..
Must be ATF.. dont step in it...
![]()
You are now, about to start going the the other way, back together!
Step 12.
Open a Beer.
![]()
Step 13.
Add fork oil.
Your goal is to have 160mm from top of oil level inside fork, to top of fork tube while fork is collapsed, and empty of spring and spacer.
Add oil while Taking a guess at that measurement.
Work fork for a bit to work out air bubbles when that is achieved by the lack of squishing sound, dial in your measurement. Again, this measurement is taken with fork collapsed!
I use the over fill, then remove method with aforementioned pre measured tool.
![]()
Put hose down fork tube up to zip tie, Suck out oil til it slurps and BAM! You have a 160mm air cap!
Step 14.
Extend fork.
Assemble @DarkScout kit.
Put in spring and spacer kit as shown.
![]()
Now, the small washer was not addressed in any information I had.. I did put it back in for an even mating surface to the spacer. I realize if it is not spec'd to be there, I will have slightly raised spring preload. I gave it a shot, and it set up just fine with it, and have been riding it as such and have no desire to change it. Its perfect for me.
Replace fork cap being carefull to not cross thread. This may be the most challenging part. Be patient, and mindful of where the thread begins, I push down, turn back wards till I feel a slight click, indicating beginning of thread, then turn forward to tighten. Be mindful and you will be fine.. I found using the socket as a handle was very helpful.
Torque cap.
Now give the fork tube a few bounces, and check operation, I didnt have it with this bike, but I have had some instances on other bikes where it was kinda squeaky sounding at first, but after a dozen or so boings, it goes away, dont panic. If it never goes away is another thread.
Slide fork back in to marks, make sure they are even,, torque to spec.
Your forks are done!
Step 15
Open a Beer.
![]()
Step 16.
Reassemble the wheel, brake and fender.
Torque Axle stud to spec.
Step 17.
Lower bike and give it some good bounces,, once you have determined it operates freely, torque Axle pinch bolt to spec. Re check operation, Then torque brake caliper and fender.
![]()
Thanks @Alpal for the torque specs!
For set up tips go to @DarkScout excellent set tips at prop engineering
Things I ran across while doing this,, was the upside down springs.
The factory fork oil amounts were not equal.
The forks were uneven in triples by about a 1/16.
Thanks for reading and have more fun then I did with this write up!
I wanted to give a lil peak into switching the fork springs to @DarkScout spec, for folks that may be on the fence involving the labor involved in doing the job.. my write up is geared toward the person, that has a held a wrench, and can fog a mirror while held to its nose.. its often perceived as an intimidating or very technical job.. when taken one step at a time, its achievable to even a novice wrench..
everyone does things a lil different, this is how I do mine..
Things you need.
The ability to lift front of bike enuff to remove front wheel.
15 weight fork oil
6mm Allen
8mm Allen
Flat blade screwdriver.
16mm Allen (in a pinch the back of sparkplug socket may work, I've done it in the past though haven't confirmed on scout)
30mm socket
A ruler. Or a means to measure fork oil air cap. I always make a tool that pre measures.
Pre measured to 160mm
Large syringe, hosing and zip ties and a bike spoke to keep hose straight. Un trimmed zip tie is the guide stop for measurement. more on that later..
First, I always break loose all bolts you know you will have to remove before lifting bike.
These will be
Fender. Brake caliper. Axel pinch bolt and Axel stud.
Its time to lift the bike.
I use a standard lift, and for added assurance I also use a ratchet strap hung from garage rafter.
Now, we can get at it!!
Step one. Open a Beer.
Step 2.
I like to mark fork tube orientation with a marker. Its more relevant to older, high mileage or wheelied bikes, to make sure it goes together as it was.
Step 3.
Remove brake caliper, dont let it hang from hose.
Use something to hang it, or, use Indians specially made perch to set it on like this.
Lol!
Step 4.
Remove wheel.
Weight of bike will shift at this point, so be mind full.
Step 5.
Remove fender.
Step 6.
Loosen triple tree fork bolts,
I like to take a flat blade screwdriver and gently tap into clamp to open it up a bit to aid in sliding fork tube from triples. It doesn't take much, just enough to stay put.
Step 7.
Loosen fork caps.
I slide the for tube down past the upper triple but leave in lower with enough clearance to get 30mm socket and driver on to fork cap.
Like the above picture.
Remove flat head, and snug up lower triple pinch bolt. With your hand hold down on socket, to assure from slipping give the handle a quick rap and it will break loose, with minimal mark on the cap..
Step 8.
Remove fork tube.
Loosen triple clamps you snugged up and slide fork tube out. You are now about to re spec your fork!
Step 9.
Remove factory spring, spacer and oil.
Using some care remove fork cap.
Now keep in mind, its under some spring pressure, its not a whole lot, but, will require a lil bit of anticipation.. think like popping a cork champagne bottle, some hand on the cap, and some on the fork tube to keep things under control after you breach last thread!
Step 10.
Remove factory spring, spacer and washer.
They will come out like this.
If you notice the tight wind coils are on bottom.. aka, upside down.. generally fork springs have the coils up, to reduce unsprung weight.
Step 11.
Drain old fork oil.
Pour it out, and extend and retract fork to work out as much old oil as possible.
Looks like ATF..Smells like ATF..
Feels like ATF.. tastes like ATF..
Must be ATF.. dont step in it...
You are now, about to start going the the other way, back together!
Step 12.
Open a Beer.
Step 13.
Add fork oil.
Your goal is to have 160mm from top of oil level inside fork, to top of fork tube while fork is collapsed, and empty of spring and spacer.
Add oil while Taking a guess at that measurement.
Work fork for a bit to work out air bubbles when that is achieved by the lack of squishing sound, dial in your measurement. Again, this measurement is taken with fork collapsed!
I use the over fill, then remove method with aforementioned pre measured tool.
Put hose down fork tube up to zip tie, Suck out oil til it slurps and BAM! You have a 160mm air cap!
Step 14.
Extend fork.
Assemble @DarkScout kit.
Put in spring and spacer kit as shown.
Now, the small washer was not addressed in any information I had.. I did put it back in for an even mating surface to the spacer. I realize if it is not spec'd to be there, I will have slightly raised spring preload. I gave it a shot, and it set up just fine with it, and have been riding it as such and have no desire to change it. Its perfect for me.
Replace fork cap being carefull to not cross thread. This may be the most challenging part. Be patient, and mindful of where the thread begins, I push down, turn back wards till I feel a slight click, indicating beginning of thread, then turn forward to tighten. Be mindful and you will be fine.. I found using the socket as a handle was very helpful.
Torque cap.
Now give the fork tube a few bounces, and check operation, I didnt have it with this bike, but I have had some instances on other bikes where it was kinda squeaky sounding at first, but after a dozen or so boings, it goes away, dont panic. If it never goes away is another thread.
Slide fork back in to marks, make sure they are even,, torque to spec.
Your forks are done!
Step 15
Open a Beer.
Step 16.
Reassemble the wheel, brake and fender.
Torque Axle stud to spec.
Step 17.
Lower bike and give it some good bounces,, once you have determined it operates freely, torque Axle pinch bolt to spec. Re check operation, Then torque brake caliper and fender.
Thanks @Alpal for the torque specs!
For set up tips go to @DarkScout excellent set tips at prop engineering
Things I ran across while doing this,, was the upside down springs.
The factory fork oil amounts were not equal.
The forks were uneven in triples by about a 1/16.
Thanks for reading and have more fun then I did with this write up!
