Indian Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been doing a lot of research on the rebuilding of the master cylinders on my 2001 Scout. One recommendation was that the fluid should be changed after 2 years because of moisture in the fluid. My bike has 17000 miles on it so I decided to do a rebuild with new DOT 5 fluid. After removing the cover on the rear master this is what I found. Water and contamination in the reservoir! I am also installing new brake pads and found that my Scout did not have anti-rattle springs installed. Mark at Moto Indian told me that some of the early Scouts came from the factory with no springs because of a clearance problem between the pads and the rotor. I ordered new springs and will install them if I have enough clearance to do so. I would be interested in other members experiences with the brake system.
600154
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,137 Posts
The brake spring issue has always been an issue with the early machines. Some say the factory didn't install them, some said the dealerships didn't install them after brake jobs or inspections, some said the clips could rattle out on their own...I remember some dealerships not carrying them in their inventory because their mechs claimed they always fell out and were a pain to deal with. I've always made sure they were in.
The flush every two years seems a bit much but I doubt it'll hurt. If your machine is open to the elements or sits a lot, then two years may be what it needs. I keep mine up with the standard service intervals and haven't had any issues with over 115,000 miles on mine. I have also replaced my rotors several times as well as the calipers with PM components. Also, check your lines. If you are getting water in there, it has to come from somewhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your response. I bought this Bike last July and I am just now going through it and probably have only put about 40 miles on it so far. I suspect that the rear brake fluid may have been the original stuff. I will blow out the lines before I start to button things back up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,137 Posts
True that. Always replace fluids and rubber bits. They expire over time, crack, and allow in moisture/air in or out. You never know how well the previous owner kept their machine up either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I ran into an interesting problem on my front Master cylinder rebuild. The rebuild went well and as I was riding the bike I noticed that the front brake lever locked out and no mater how hard I squeezed it, the lever would just barely move and no front brake. I took it back apart again this morning and discovered the lever plunger and the barrel were the problem. After examining the plunger shaft I noticed it has a slight bend in it but the main problem was the metal guide on the plunger shaft had twisted out of the guide and became a bar blocking the squeezing of the brake lever. I straightened the plunger shaft and bent the guide back so that it was once again inside its housing. I noticed the oval inset on the barrel did not seat into the plunger shaft and the plunger shaft was free to spin without locking into the barrel. My question to those of you out there that work on your bike is that is the plunger shaft supposed to lock into the barrel to prevent the plunger from spinning and getting out of its guide tunnel? I would order new parts at Moto Indian but it looks like they have been out of stock since 2017.
600993
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
As far as the front master cylinder goes, the recommendation over at indianmotorcyclecommunity dot com, is to replace the unit with a 3/4 bore. A Custom Chrome like from J&P or indie shops is fine. Of course, when I did mine a few years ago, I hadn't read all that yet, and used the stock 5/8 bore. Most people say the 3/4 works very well.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top