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I’m kind of leery with the Indian dealership down here – The bike did not come with an AGM battery (regular lead acid and looked used) didn’t last very long – I told them about it (they said I must have left the switch on, so it’s my fault (lairs) – it’s a consumable) but they were happy to sell me one- bought anti gravity instead – Next it was the recall circuit breakers (not sure if they were replaced with used ones – or not replaced at all) bike kept dyeing in 1st gear coming to a stop, or coasting to a stop ( I ordered them from Amazon) It’s kind of like what someone once said ; I like your Jesus, but I can’t stand your god damned Christians, They are so unlike to their Jesus
 

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Ooo! Are we talking in code now?!
Well than I need to say,,
The duck flies at midnight! 🤐
 

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“Lekker dan” is Dutch for “that sucks”...
Well look at that.. even living in a German heritage capitol, still learn something new..

590928

Our mascot wears lederhosen, and we worship the German sausage AKA the Bratwurst..
Bow to the Brat Meister!
 

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'Saugt' is the German verb for suck. Scheisse is sh1t I think you'll find, normally written with an Eszett or scharfes s in place of the double S, looks a bit like a capital B with a tail. Not available on my QWERTY?
 

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You're showing off now Max. Been all over my keyboard trying to fathom if I've got it? Twice! (y)

Ooo! Are we talking in code now?!
Well than I need to say,,
The duck flies at midnight! 🤐
Then I'll have it with pineapple and flied lice please.
 

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I don't know what the numbers were before I took it in for recall- but this what the dealer installed
Buss 21110-00- 14V- 10A- 9305- L12 (2 each) .4 Ohms and .9 Ohms
and
Buss 21110-00- 14V - 10A - 9327 - L!2 (1 each) 1.4 Ohms

Fluke Meter used - bike was cold (resistances should be pretty uniformed)

and it's still doing the same thing, except more often, with no fault codes ( honestly I can't say I trust that dealer worth a ****)
I don't want to get stranded so I ordered 3 of these - BUSS CB211-10 // 14VDC 10A 3303 // "G11" ( cost a little more, higher precision and quality than the cheapies they used) Love the bike but the dealership really sucks
 

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Discussion Starter #114
I don't know what the numbers were before I took it in for recall- but this what the dealer installed
Buss 21110-00- 14V- 10A- 9305- L12 (2 each) .4 Ohms and .9 Ohms
and
Buss 21110-00- 14V - 10A - 9327 - L!2 (1 each) 1.4 Ohms

Fluke Meter used - bike was cold (resistances should be pretty uniformed)

and it's still doing the same thing, except more often, with no fault codes ( honestly I can't say I trust that dealer worth a ****)
I don't want to get stranded so I ordered 3 of these - BUSS CB211-10 // 14VDC 10A 3303 // "G11" ( cost a little more, higher precision and quality than the cheapies they used) Love the bike but the dealership really sucks
Ok, I'm going to give this a shot and do the same as you. I'm replacing the fuses that the dealer installed during the recall. It couldn't hurt.

Like yours, my three are also the Buss 21110-00-14V-10A following the recall. I have a combination of suffixes though, L11, L12, and L13, but I don't think there is any difference between them. The Buss literature is not specfic, but I believe L11 refers to the Lot code, and the 4 digits following that are the date of manufacture.

These particular fuses are circuit breakers. They open at a temperature caused by heating from overcurrent, in this case 10 Amps, and reset again when they cool. I'm not sure that measuring their static resistance at room temperature is useful to know. My guess is that the recalled fuses were being triggered to open, not by overcurrent, by high ambient temperatures such as a hot day over a hot exhaust manifold. This would likely cause a complete stall, not just rough idle, or surging RPMs as I am seeing on my FTR.

The Buss literature does say that the CB211-10 is a direct replacement, so that's what I'm getting as well.
 

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After dealer replacement all 3, 10 amp CB's
I did some ohms law to find the trip value in current - all 3 had different resistances with multimeter
I=E/R
I =12v/ .4 r = 30a not Tripping failed
I=12v/ .9 r = 13a, resistance should be .9 to 1 ohm (12 volt ~ 14 Volt) Passed
I=12v/ 1.4 r = 8A trips to soon failed

so the Dealer installed two bad ones (if he installed them al all) - the resistance should be about one ohm for a good Circuit Breaker (anything over or under- replace it)
 

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You can’t really test a circuit breaker with a multimeter. They are not good at measuring low resistance values, your cables and connectors play too big a role and can easily lead to huge errors (edit: and you never reach the temperature when it’s supposed to trip)

Instead use a dependable current source and crank it up 1 Amp at a time and see when it cuts out. Odds are the average 10A breaker will cut out at 12-15 A after a certain time...
 

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Discussion Starter #117
I have 3 new CB211-10's installed. Two of them are similar, they have the gold anodized case. The third is plastic like the ones that were installed for the recall.

No obvious difference in idling. I'll let you know.
 

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And no, the circuit breakers have no effect on idling...

It’s an automatic fuse, nothing more, nothing less.
Ok, I’ve got a question...so a fuse or circuit breaker in this case is put in line to be the week point if you like and take the surge or direct short or whatever the problem is on that circuit rite? So when a fuse blows or a circuit breaker trips there is a problem somewhere. So you go searching for the source of the problem, rectify it and then replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker rite?? ....so how come they have installed a unit that trips then resets if there is a problem on that circuit? I don’t get it guys 🤔🥴
 
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