[Masta Kink]

Its one of the better mods I have done to my 60.

 

[sneakyscotsman]

Anybody got the dimensions of the bracket as ive just been on twisted throttle and to get the $18 piece of steel to the uk will cost $77.73!!!!!! so i guess im making something up as nobody here seems to stock them.

 

[MattyBoy]

I replaced stock horn on my 2017 Scout with this. Fits perfectly and plenty loud. $30.

Denali Soundbomb Mini Horn - RevZilla

 

[sneakyscotsman]

Any chance of somebody who has the mounting bracket for the sound bomb could post some pictures of it from different angles there's only a couple online and I can't buy one in the uk for a reasonable price so am planning on making something. Thanks

 

[marcmi]

Late to the party, but I pulled the trigger on a Soundbomb and found an awesome location to mount the compressor with the horn module in the stock horn location. This will only work if you have an aftermarket intake...I removed the stock horn and used the to straight mounting brackets the stock horn used to locate the compressor to the top of the forward cylinder. Then used a $.99 angle bracket to mount the SB horn to the stock location. The “Plug N play” harness from Denali was routed and BOOM. Super clean and no need to mount anywhere to the outside of the bike. And LOUD is an understatement. This thing is re-dunk-u-lous...my commute just got way more interesting.

 

[Raiallday]

Does anybody know if the Denali Soundbomb Compact Air Horn will fit on a 2018 Bobber? I know they make a specific mount for the 2015-17 Scout, but Revzilla's site flags it as a questionable fit. Thanks in advance.

Sound bomb mini fits better. Take out the old one, mini bolts right in. Easy install. I’ve seen the Denali air on Harley’s, not seen one on a bobber.

 

[Raiallday]

I'll post some better closeups of the mount and stuff later, but for the time being here's a shot of both the bars and horn installed.


View attachment 420578

Great place for the bomb,, (DENALI) did you fab the bracket to fit there.,, very cool.

 

[TPcreeper]

The screaming Banshee 'mini' bolts up in the bobber's stock position and is friggin loud.
Easy swap out with great results.

Screaming Banshee - Loud Motorcycle Horns and Safety Systems

 

[TheRamblinMan]

Here's a couple of close-ups. It's kinda hard to see, but the mounting bracket attaches to the frame between the upper highway bar mount and the frame. The other end of the bracket is attached to the horn by a single bolt. It's a bit of a chore to get everything lined up but it works great once it's in place. I've been running this setup for over 6,500 miles and haven't had to adjust anything.

Also this wiring harness makes it super easy to wire in the horn.

Denali Plug-N-Play Wiring Harness For Dual-Tone Airhorns - RevZilla

It uses the existing horn wires to trigger the relay, and the other end runs to the battery under the seat. There's plenty of wire so you don't have to worry about running out and there isn't any splicing required. Though, I did modify my wiring harness so both the stock and air horn work.

View attachment 420678

View attachment 420676

I know this is an older post, but I really appreciate the info and photos. I'm a newbie and have a 21 Indian Scout with highway bars installed. I'm ordering this same horn tonight and hope I can figure out the wiring on it. Someone else on the forums gave me advice about the horn. Sounds like I can't use stock wiring either so I'm ordering their wiring harness.

Thanks for all the good photos.

 

[seapig]

I know this is an older post, but I really appreciate the info and photos. I'm a newbie and have a 21 Indian Scout with highway bars installed. I'm ordering this same horn tonight and hope I can figure out the wiring on it. Someone else on the forums gave me advice about the horn. Sounds like I can't use stock wiring either so I'm ordering their wiring harness.

Thanks for all the good photos.

The wiring harness makes it super easy, it should come with instructions on what to do with all of the wires.

The hardest part of the installation is getting the horn mounting bracket installed as there isn't a ton of room to work in there.

Also, a bit of random advice to anyone with this horn and wiring harness. If the horn stops working or sounds like shit, check the relay on the harness. Mine rusted internally from water getting to it, and caused the horn to act weird until the relay finally died.

 

[TheRamblinMan]

The wiring harness makes it super easy, it should come with instructions on what to do with all of the wires.

The hardest part of the installation is getting the horn mounting bracket installed as there isn't a ton of room to work in there.

Also, a bit of random advice to anyone with this horn and wiring harness. If the horn stops working or sounds like shit, check the relay on the harness. Mine rusted internally from water getting to it, and caused the horn to act weird until the relay finally died.

I received my Compact and plan to try an install this weekend. I have the highway bars on mine already installed. Do you recall if you had to use a longer screw or did the one holding the highway bars in place work just fine to hold everything? Thanks again.

 

[seapig]

I received my Compact and plan to try an install this weekend. I have the highway bars on mine already installed. Do you recall if you had to use a longer screw or did the one holding the highway bars in place work just fine to hold everything? Thanks again.

I believe the existing bolt is long enough.

 

[TheRamblinMan]

I believe the existing bolt is long enough.

I am outside with the horn now looking at installing it. I bought the specific mount that they said to use and I guess I am not seeing how the highway bars and this mount coexist.

 

[seapig]

Here's a couple of close-ups. It's kinda hard to see, but the mounting bracket attaches to the frame between the upper highway bar mount and the frame. The other end of the bracket is attached to the horn by a single bolt. It's a bit of a chore to get everything lined up but it works great once it's in place. I've been running this setup for over 6,500 miles and haven't had to adjust anything.

Also this wiring harness makes it super easy to wire in the horn.

Denali Plug-N-Play Wiring Harness For Dual-Tone Airhorns - RevZilla

It uses the existing horn wires to trigger the relay, and the other end runs to the battery under the seat. There's plenty of wire so you don't have to worry about running out and there isn't any splicing required. Though, I did modify my wiring harness so both the stock and air horn work.

View attachment 420678

View attachment 420676

I am outside with the horn now looking at installing it. I bought the specific mount that they said to use and I guess I am not seeing how the highway bars and this mount coexist.

I'm assuming you have the same mount as I do. If you don't, maybe post which one you purchased. Otherwise, see my previous post above. You have to remove the top bolt from the crash bars and slide the mount between the crash bars and the frame, the put the bolt back through the crash bars and horn mount.

 

[TheRamblinMan]

I'm assuming you have the same mount as I do. If you don't, maybe post which one you purchased. Otherwise, see my previous post above. You have to remove the top bolt from the crash bars and slide the mount between the crash bars and the frame, the put the bolt back through the crash bars and horn mount.

Thanks for the quick response. I see what you're saying...actually, my wife who is my trusty helper totally get it. Ha!

Unfortunately, my wife is sick today and said she's not up for being my wrench buddy today like usual, so she's asked if we can work on this tomorrow. I tend to find that simple projects take 4 times as long by myself and I tend to need the extra set of eyes/hands. I think I could do this one on my own but these are often my famous last words before I ask for her help. Looks like I'm stalling on this until tomorrow.

Also have to figure out how to remove the stock horn. That looks a bit tight in there as well.

Luckily, the weather here today is perfect riding weather, so I may just hit the road a bit and make this the Sunday project.

 

[seapig]

Thanks for the quick response. I see what you're saying...actually, my wife who is my trusty helper totally get it. Ha!

Unfortunately, my wife is sick today and said she's not up for being my wrench buddy today like usual, so she's asked if we can work on this tomorrow. I tend to find that simple projects take 4 times as long by myself and I tend to need the extra set of eyes/hands. I think I could do this one on my own but these are often my famous last words before I ask for her help. Looks like I'm stalling on this until tomorrow.

Also have to figure out how to remove the stock horn. That looks a bit tight in there as well.

Luckily, the weather here today is perfect riding weather, so I may just hit the road a bit and make this the Sunday project.

The hardest part should be lining everything up. When I did it I mounted the horn to the mount first, then mounted the mount to the bike.

Removing the stock horn is easy, just loosen the nut on the back of it and disconnect the wires. If I remember correctly the wire colors are either the same or not obvious to which one is positive and which one is ground. Unless you have a multimeter to check the polarity, mark the wires so you know which one went to which connection on the horn, then look at the back of the horn as it should be marked. Or at least that's what I remember having to do.

Also if you do your own oil changes, removing the stock horn has the added bonus of making the oil filter 100x easier to remove.

 

[TheRamblinMan]

The hardest part should be lining everything up. When I did it I mounted the horn to the mount first, then mounted the mount to the bike.

Removing the stock horn is easy, just loosen the nut on the back of it and disconnect the wires. If I remember correctly the wire colors are either the same or not obvious to which one is positive and which one is ground. Unless you have a multimeter to check the polarity, mark the wires so you know which one went to which connection on the horn, then look at the back of the horn as it should be marked. Or at least that's what I remember having to do.

Also if you do your own oil changes, removing the stock horn has the added bonus of making the oil filter 100x easier to remove.

Thanks for all the advice. Couple of questions.

1. I was looking at your pictures again. Did you remove your stock horn? I thought I still see it.

2. Do your recall if you removed your tank to run these wires or were you able to just zip tie them underneath?

Really appreciate your patience fielding these questions!

 

[seapig]

Thanks for all the advice. Couple of questions.

1. I was looking at your pictures again. Did you remove your stock horn? I thought I still see it.

2. Do your recall if you removed your tank to run these wires or were you able to just zip tie them underneath?

Really appreciate your patience fielding these questions!

I initially kept the stock horn and actually spliced it in to the harness so I could use both horns. Eventually though, I started having issues with the wires connecting to the stock horn breaking right at the horn due to the amount of rocks and other things that bounce up off the road and hit the bottom of the bike. I also got tired of having to pull it to get to the oil filter so I eventually decided to just remove it. The air horn is more than loud enough.

I don't think I needed to remove the tank. I think there was enough other stuff running under there that I could get to without having to take the tank off.

 

[TheRamblinMan]

I initially kept the stock horn and actually spliced it in to the harness so I could use both horns. Eventually though, I started having issues with the wires connecting to the stock horn breaking right at the horn due to the amount of rocks and other things that bounce up off the road and hit the bottom of the bike. I also got tired of having to pull it to get to the oil filter so I eventually decided to just remove it. The air horn is more than loud enough.

I don't think I needed to remove the tank. I think there was enough other stuff running under there that I could get to without having to take the tank off.

I think I've realized why I'm having trouble moving past Step 1 of undoing the highway bar bolt. I haven't been able to budge it. As lame as that is, I think it may be because they put Loctite in there when the dealer installed the highway bars. Worked on it today and we could not get it to budge. Embarrassing to admit but we're stuck on this step for today.

 

[TheRamblinMan]

I initially kept the stock horn and actually spliced it in to the harness so I could use both horns. Eventually though, I started having issues with the wires connecting to the stock horn breaking right at the horn due to the amount of rocks and other things that bounce up off the road and hit the bottom of the bike. I also got tired of having to pull it to get to the oil filter so I eventually decided to just remove it. The air horn is more than loud enough.

I don't think I needed to remove the tank. I think there was enough other stuff running under there that I could get to without having to take the tank off.

I'm assuming you have the same mount as I do. If you don't, maybe post which one you purchased. Otherwise, see my previous post above. You have to remove the top bolt from the crash bars and slide the mount between the crash bars and the frame, the put the bolt back through the crash bars and horn mount.

Thanks for your running help. I was able to remove the highway bar top bolt after applying some heat and trying a different method. Question for you Dash did you have to remove the spacer to get everything installed? We are trying to do this by leaving the highway bar that is already installed in place and work around it. Just curious if you had to remove the spacer or uninstall the highway bars.