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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well i got sick of the heat and tore exhaust off not real easy... so if anyone digs the cat out be ready to work.... took lil over hour to dig that crap out no wonder bikes get hot good lord i dont see how exhaust passed thru. so i got it tacked up and will finish tommorrow get bike back together... should run cooler
 

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Dug mine out on my own and a muffler shop welded it closed for $60. As OP says it was a b of a job. Made a very big difference in heat for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i was a bit affaid to tare into but i rode today and it was only in the 80s and it was too dam hot on right leg so got the tools, grinder and mig out and got to work. i ll finish welding up tommorrow water test it and paint it. you can by them that someone gutted already for i think 120.00 plus shipping. but im kinda tired of spending money to make bike run as it should. got my vision 3 V.H turndowns and did a mod to stock airbox hopefully i dont have to do anything but ride ride ride.....
 

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If you are willing work fairly hard, then the converter can be gutted without any cutting or welding on the can. You can drill and rod the internals out through the pipes. It can be a surprisingly clean result inside the chamber as well because once the honeycomb collapses, it pulls away from the walls easily.
 

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I haven’t had any heat issues as of yet. But I did buy my Chieftain towards end of season last year. So haven’t really run in any heat the way this seasons been. I’m leaving Friday for the west coast for a 2 weeks trip 5 to 6g. I just switched my oil to Redline 20w60 it helped my Harleys run much cooler and quieter so I’m gonna give it a go on my 111. If I find I’m having heat issues. Soon as I return I’m putting a x-pipe on mine to eliminate the cats also. Best I’ve done is a 400 mile ride at 80 degrees with no issues yet.
 

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My passenger gets the heat more than me .want to do it but no welding so afraid to start
Check out American Custom exhaust... you take your head pipe off, ship it to them (they will sell you a box and a flat rate 25.00 shipping label if you want). They remove the cat chamber and install their own which has a baffle to maintain the required back pressure and a diverter to equalize the flow in both mufflers. Then they return ship it for free!! Best 199 I have spent!

Mark
 

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I haven’t had any heat issues as of yet. But I did buy my Chieftain towards end of season last year. So haven’t really run in any heat the way this seasons been. I’m leaving Friday for the west coast for a 2 weeks trip 5 to 6g. I just switched my oil to Redline 20w60 it helped my Harleys run much cooler and quieter so I’m gonna give it a go on my 111. If I find I’m having heat issues. Soon as I return I’m putting a x-pipe on mine to eliminate the cats also. Best I’ve done is a 400 mile ride at 80 degrees with no issues yet.
These bikes do not need crazy heavy oil like the HD’s did... These engines were designed to run the oem weight and are built to tighter specs. Running a much higher viscosity means slower circulation , oil pump has to work harder, slower flow through the oil cooler, and slower starts when cold.. All in all, heavier oils do not make your bike run cooler and not needed...

JMHO.......

MARK
 

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These bikes do not need crazy heavy oil like the HD’s did... These engines were designed to run the oem weight and are built to tighter specs. Running a much higher viscosity means slower circulation , oil pump has to work harder, slower flow through the oil cooler, and slower starts when cold.. All in all, heavier oils do not make your bike run cooler and not needed...

JMHO.......

MARK
Yeah but if you run hard as I do it can’t hurt. And you talk with riders using the 60 weight with 100 to 250g on their 111,s and never been in the motors. It’s a little hard to argue with those facts. it sure can’t hurt and probably help in my eyes in the heat.And running tank to tank all day 700 to 900 plus days I’ll stick with it myself.And now indian is also on board with running it. I’ll let ya know I usually keep a bike 4 yrs and put between 70 and 100g on. Well probably more when I retire next year. Personally I think the 20w40 is great for round town. But touring 2 up loaded down I don’t care for it. Which means absolutely nothing because it’s JMO
 

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I went to true duals and a set of 4" Rinehart mufflers. Great difference in heat reduction and sound. Don't forget to remap the system. Back pressure greatly reduced without the cat. Performance will be compromised if you don't go the extra step.
 

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I gutted mine and welded it back up then painted it with ceramic header paint. I am no welder but it doesn't leak. Worked well and reduced heat a lot.
 

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My passenger gets the heat more than me .want to do it but no welding so afraid to start
I've heard on other forums and YouTube that's possible to do it without welding... you going through the open pipe and the job is not as good as taking it out completely because you have to drill it out with a 1 inch spade bit to make pipe holes in the cat itself
It is leaving parts of the cat behind but it does work and it's better than having a full cat but not as good as having it completely cat-less

It might be the way to go for you if you don't want to weld.
Or you could find one of those guys who takes your original pipes and keeps them (along with a couple of hundred bucks) and send you back a cat-less pipe from someone else' sale/work. is done that way to save time, they can of course do the work on your pipe it means waiting a while
 

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I've heard on other forums and YouTube that's possible to do it without welding... you going through the open pipe and the job is not as good as taking it out completely because you have to drill it out with a 1 inch spade bit to make pipe holes in the cat itself
It is leaving parts of the cat behind but it does work and it's better than having a full cat but not as good as having it completely cat-less

It might be the way to go for you if you don't want to weld.
Or you could find one of those guys who takes your original pipes and keeps them (along with a couple of hundred bucks) and send you back a cat-less pipe from someone else' sale/work. is done that way to save time, they can of course do the work on your pipe it means waiting a while
Nothing need be left behind inside and no cutting necessary. The honeycomb will separate relatively cleanly from the chamber walls.
 

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Check out American Custom exhaust... you take your head pipe off, ship it to them (they will sell you a box and a flat rate 25.00 shipping label if you want). They remove the cat chamber and install their own which has a baffle to maintain the required back pressure and a diverter to equalize the flow in both mufflers. Then they return ship it for free!! Best 199 I have spent!

Mark
No need to create back pressure. Back pressure is not mechanical. It is simply the force of atmospheric pressure and the exhaust stream cooling and expanding.
 

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No need to create back pressure. Back pressure is not mechanical. It is simply the force of atmospheric pressure and the exhaust stream cooling and expanding.
Back pressure in the exhaust keeps the newly charged unburned fuel from moving through the cylinder into the exhaust system. In racing engines some raw gas in the exhaust is OK as it makes for a more powerful engine and you’ll see flames coming out of the exhaust. They are tuned for power.

Exhaust gas has very little oxygen in it compared to fresh air: ~1% vs 20%. It takes oxygen to burn metal.
If a leaky or too-short exhaust pipe lets fresh air reach the exhaust valve it burns.

The exhaust does not come out of the engine in a steady stream, it comes out in pulses. This is pretty obvious with a single cylinder engine, like on a lawnmower. When the exhaust valve starts to open the pressure in the cylinder is still pretty high.
So the exhaust gasses leave rapidly early in the exhaust stroke. This creates a wave that travels down the exhaust path at the speed of sound. Also, when a pressure wave traveling in a pipe reaches the open end (or a chamber, like a cat converter or resonator) a rarefaction (negative pressure) wave is created and travels back in the other direction.
At low engine speeds these waves can travel up and down the exhaust system several times on each stroke.

Street engine drivers don’t want to do valve jobs every few weeks or months so designing in some back pressure is just one aspect of building the motor to last, get good power, and long life
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
up date i dont know about all the back pressure and all the pressure wave and stuff what i do know is i got my bike back together and took it for a ride its 93 degrees here and my legs didnt get burning hot motor ran alot cooler bike was running better no decel back fire nothing ive never in my life had a bike with a cat in it never will my other bike i sold was a VTX 1300 i bought new had stock pipes removed V.H big shots put on rejet carb K.N filter Arlin Ness air box...ran that bike 14 years never a problem. new owner loves it. get rid of the cat is all i say too much heat on your motor and you.
 

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"Back pressure" in the exhaust system is getting confused with "scavenging". A certain amount in the exhaust system is required to work properly.

Once your system is off, instead of cutting and re-welding, just punch it out with rods and/or spade bit drills.
 

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"Back pressure" in the exhaust system is getting confused with "scavenging". A certain amount in the exhaust system is required to work properly.

Once your system is off, instead of cutting and re-welding, just punch it out with rods and/or spade bit drills.
But if there is stuff left in there is that a problem when using a spade bit.
 
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