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Discussion Starter #1
I cannot believe I am telling you old timers this trick, you all are supposed to be teaching me.

Step 1:
Remove license plate, if you are stuck here print this and take it and the parts to a mechanic.

Step 2:
Buy, or if you are fast enough steal a Tractor Trailer mud flap. (seriously don't steal one, its kinda a dick thing to do)
NOTE: some repair shops will give you an F'ed up one for nothing or a box of donuts.
Or pick up a piece of road debris tire tread, it's everywhere and free!

Step 3:
Buy 4 additional; bolts, nylock nuts, lock washers, and medium to large diameter fender washers. Bolts should be factory length plus the thickness of the rubber material you bought

Step 4:
Using a white paint marker trace your plate on the rubber of your choice, include the bottom bolt holes. Now move the plate 1" higher on the rubber and trace the upper edge and bolt holes.

Step 5:
Taking jig saw, or hack saw ( or chainsaw if you are a little on the fruitcake side) and cut the rubber at the upper line with the bolt holes, and the lower line with the bolt holes. Trim sides to fit.

Step 6:
You may need to clamp the rubber section down now, but you want to take a drill with a bit slightly larger than you plate bolts and drill out the marked holes.

Step 7:
Fasten your plate to the rubber vibration damper you just created using the plates lower bolt holes with the longer bolts,
Assemble as follows;
  1. Place the plate on the damper aligning the lower holes.
  2. Insert bolts in the lower holes.
  3. Flip over plate & damper w/bolts.
  4. Place one Medium/LArge fender washer on each of the protruding bolts.
  5. Place one lock washer on each of the protruding bolts.
  6. Thread on one nylock(self locking) nut on each of the protruding bolts.
  7. Tighten snug but don't bend or crinkle the plate.
Step 8:
Using the upper holes in the damper attach to plastic factory plate mount. except this time teh fender washer goes under the head of the bolt and re-use the old washers from the factory bolts on the back side of the mount then the lock washer then the nylock nuts. Tighten snug but don't **** up the plastic.


Step 9:
Admire your handy work, drink much beverages and brag about how hard you work to customize your bike, show now one these instructions and pass along this info like you are the one that came up with the idea.

~T
 

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Or you could just put 4 bolts right from the start on your plates, using just the two upper holes allows the license plate to flex all the time your moving.
With all 4 corners bolted down the plate can not flex and break like Jay's did around his top holes.
 

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I cannot believe I am telling you old timers this trick, you all are supposed to be teaching me.

Step 1:
Remove license plate, if you are stuck here print this and take it and the parts to a mechanic.

Step 2:
Buy, or if you are fast enough steal a Tractor Trailer mud flap. (seriously don't steal one, its kinda a dick thing to do)
NOTE: some repair shops will give you an F'ed up one for nothing or a box of donuts.
Or pick up a piece of road debris tire tread, it's everywhere and free!

Step 3:
Buy 4 additional; bolts, nylock nuts, lock washers, and medium to large diameter fender washers. Bolts should be factory length plus the thickness of the rubber material you bought

Step 4:
Using a white paint marker trace your plate on the rubber of your choice, include the bottom bolt holes. Now move the plate 1" higher on the rubber and trace the upper edge and bolt holes.

Step 5:
Taking jig saw, or hack saw ( or chainsaw if you are a little on the fruitcake side) and cut the rubber at the upper line with the bolt holes, and the lower line with the bolt holes. Trim sides to fit.

Step 6:
You may need to clamp the rubber section down now, but you want to take a drill with a bit slightly larger than you plate bolts and drill out the marked holes.

Step 7:
Fasten your plate to the rubber vibration damper you just created using the plates lower bolt holes with the longer bolts,
Assemble as follows;
  1. Place the plate on the damper aligning the lower holes.
  2. Insert bolts in the lower holes.
  3. Flip over plate & damper w/bolts.
  4. Place one Medium/LArge fender washer on each of the protruding bolts.
  5. Place one lock washer on each of the protruding bolts.
  6. Thread on one nylock(self locking) nut on each of the protruding bolts.
  7. Tighten snug but don't bend or crinkle the plate.
Step 8:
Using the upper holes in the damper attach to plastic factory plate mount. except this time teh fender washer goes under the head of the bolt and re-use the old washers from the factory bolts on the back side of the mount then the lock washer then the nylock nuts. Tighten snug but don't **** up the plastic.


Step 9:
Admire your handy work, drink much beverages and brag about how hard you work to customize your bike, show now one these instructions and pass along this info like you are the one that came up with the idea.

~T
Great write up and bombproof solution. I appreciate the time put forth! As I know time is short in supply commodity!
Thanks @Tombsmen
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Or you could just put 4 bolts right from the start on your plates, using just the two upper holes allows the license plate to flex all the time your moving.
With all 4 corners bolted down the plate can not flex and break like Jay's did around his top holes.
@RBinTEX , there is the flex problem but there is also the vibration problem over a greater time frame, this solves both problems. But it's your bike and your plate, you have to go with how you want your bike to look and exist.
 

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@RBinTEX , there is the flex problem but there is also the vibration problem over a greater time frame, this solves both problems. But it's your bike and your plate, you have to go with how you want your bike to look and exist.
Mine has been on there for over a year and a half, since Dec. 2014.
Through many miles of high speed runs on Texas highways and it still looks as pristine as when put on the mounting bracket.

OEM bracket tag installed with all 4 bolts without the black backing plate that came with the bike.
 

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@RBinTEX , there is the flex problem but there is also the vibration problem over a greater time frame, this solves both problems. But it's your bike and your plate, you have to go with how you want your bike to look and exist.
Mine has been on there for over a year and a half, since Dec. 2014.
Through many miles of high speed runs on Texas highways and it still looks as pristine as when put on the mounting bracket. OEM bracket tag installed with all 4 bolts and the black backing plate that came with the bike.
I'm with @RBinTEX on this one. I had a 2015 up to 3000 miles. When I got the plate i made sure to use both the plastic plate from the dealer as a backer and use 2 more plastic bolts in the bottom. Now I have the same plate in the same configuration on a 2016 ABS with 4000 miles. No cracks, splits, hits, runs or errors.
 
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I just got longer bolts and stuck on the back plate. In addition i added some gorilla tape to the back to seal the bottom end of the back plate to the license plate. No issues since but it's not a very elegant solution
 

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Thanks for the write-up @Tombsmen. If I'm reading the instructions correctly, the backing rubber you're cutting out is 1" taller than the tag. The tag is only attached at the bottom?
 

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I'm with @RBinTEX on this one. I had a 2015 up to 3000 miles. When I got the plate i made sure to use both the plastic plate from the dealer as a backer and use 2 more plastic bolts in the bottom. Now I have the same plate in the same configuration on a 2016 ABS with 4000 miles. No cracks, splits, hits, runs or errors.
Or you could just put 4 bolts right from the start on your plates, using just the two upper holes allows the license plate to flex all the time your moving.
With all 4 corners bolted down the plate can not flex and break like Jay's did around his top holes.
Well I gotta eat crow on this one. I just changed out my tag sticker and found a crack. I went with a different solution. I bought 2 inexpensive license plate frames from Cycle Gear and sandwiched the plate between them. I needed longer bolts for the top but was able to use a couple of the red reflector license plate bolts for the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the write-up @Tombsmen. If I'm reading the instructions correctly, the backing rubber you're cutting out is 1" taller than the tag. The tag is only attached at the bottom?

Yes.
 

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I lost 1 license plate bolt the other day. Went out and got some SS bolts. When I got home and removed the plate I found a pretty stiff aluminum plate sandwiched between the plate and mount. Looks like my dealership might be aware of plates cracking. I picked up the bike mid Aug 2016.

IMG_3472.JPG
 

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I lost 1 license plate bolt the other day. Went out and got some SS bolts. When I got home and removed the plate I found a pretty stiff aluminum plate sandwiched between the plate and mount. Looks like my dealership might be aware of plates cracking. I picked up the bike mid Aug 2016.

View attachment 95257
Mine has this as well..when I first got the bike, I removed it, and rode without it for about 2weeks and my plate started cracking.. so I put it back on but in modified state.
I drilled 3 holes in the bottom of it.. I am now utilizing 5 bolts bolt in total.. and even though the the plate has a crack started, my solution has shown to be a success as it has not spread further..
 

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I lost 1 license plate bolt the other day. Went out and got some SS bolts. When I got home and removed the plate I found a pretty stiff aluminum plate sandwiched between the plate and mount. Looks like my dealership might be aware of plates cracking. I picked up the bike mid Aug 2016.

View attachment 95257
I got mine in Dec. 14 and the plate came with the bike stuff in a plastic Zip-lock!
I didn't use mine because I had a plate that the inspection sticker went on to replace it.
Don't even know where it is now!
 

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I got mine in Dec. 14 and the plate came with the bike stuff in a plastic Zip-lock!
I didn't use mine because I had a plate that the inspection sticker went on to replace it.
Don't even know where it is now!
Is this "ground hogs day"?!?
 

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I'm using that plate, drilled for the bottom two plate holes and using a plate frame.
I did the same, except added the third hole in the aluminum for the 3 holes in the plastic.. then have four through the plates... it's nuke proof now! Lol
 
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